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The carriers you are referring to the first pictures posted? The 3 bolt flanged bracket? Thanks for any clarification.

Well I work for Baxter auto parts part time and get things for 10% above store cost, maybe we could work together on this you find the part #'s and I can get you some good pricing.

Clean up how? What are you asking price wise?

Easiest access is removing the intake, but may be able to sneak behind but there is just so much stuff back there that the intake is easiest.

That one connects to the valve cover in the back under the intake I'm pretty sure. Maybe it partially collapsed or something?

Also spray some starting fluid around the area you think the leak is and if the idle surges higher in rpm you found the area of the leak.

I ran RT615 235/40/17 with an 1/8 spacer and was ok the rears were fine it was the front that had an issue without the spacers.

Oddly enough I have the same exact issue. A clunk when taking off and never notice it any time after that as well :shrug: . I have new lower ball joints, tie rod ends (outer) lower control arm bushings. The only thing I can think of is maybe worn out upper strut mounts but those are newish (6 years ...

Wow I would expect to see something like that if you lived somewhere that had road salt. Not Washington

bump

Check autotown mazda or Ron Tonkin Mazda they can usually check most if not all dealers in the states to see if they have something like that.

That's little more then 1/4 turn past finger tight. Hardly anything. Its what I did with mine

Jesse, anything higher than 16= bad, lean out condition can cause excessive heat and possibly burn a valve. At wide open throttle be around 12.5-13 afr is good. Cruising should be 14-15 afr.

Well I would do a voltage drop before entering the connector before the damaged part (should be 12-14 volts) and if like you said after connector it is reading 5 volts you have severe resistance my friend.

14-18 ft lbs as per alldata. 1 ft lb= 12 in lb