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The only thing bad about this is he is selling a 1990 Rx7 turbo... to where do I send a check?.....

If the fluid is anything other than bright red or pink, run. Brown, black, or smells even a little burnt, forget it. If its red or pink, and doesnt smell burnt, have the fluid changed at your ...

I had the most luck with cork gaskets, my rubber gaskets always leaked. I think it was a Purolator kit that came with cork. I put a VERY thin layer of sealant on the pan (after cleaning it thoroughly), let it sit for about 10 minutes then put the gasket on it. While that is happening coat the top of ...

Every Mx3 I have driven (automatic) had a harsh 1-2 shift. Nature of the beast.

If yours is EXTREMELY harsh, its possible the throttle sensing cable is too tight. (Its the cable right next to the throttle cable on the throttle body).

I did a Mustang ATX last year that had a drain plug on the converter, hadnt seen one of those in a while.

You are only changing about 1/2 the fluid during a change, but that 1/2 is plenty sufficient to bring the quality up. Change it again in about 3-6 months, and yearly (or every 10k miles or so ...

Your cooler and lines wont take that much, maybe 1/3-1/2 quart or so depending on the size of the cooler.

When you drop the pan you will get 5-6 quarts or so, I cant remember exactly how much. Use a pan that will hold about 8, then drain it into plastic gallon milk jugs, 2 liter bottles, whatever ...

Does the tranny slip at all? Does it whine when it is in nuetral? Check the fluid level (with the engine running, Park or Nuetral), and condition of the fluid. If its brown, or smells burnt, thats a big problem.

If you are certain the whining is coming from the tranny, its probably about to croak ...

If the terminals check out ok, dont assume the battery isnt bad. They can crap out early like anything else, especially if they were run down a few times or the alternator wasnt keeping it charged. It may have a shorted-out cell.

Check out this thread: http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=36307&start=0 . I have links there to some pictures of my install. The tube on the RIGHT (driver side) is the one you want to splice your cooler lines into. The tube on the left (psgr side) is the one that can stay as is.

ANY cooler ...

Yes I lost to a V6 F-150. Big. My compression is fine all across, if you trust Snap-On compression gauges.

As a matter of fact it goes 0-60 faster now than when I bought it new in 1993. So try again. Perhaps its the cars you guys are racing that have low compression.

heck integras are faster than my stock gs so i dont know how u guys are hanging with 300hp muscle cars???
They're not. There is more BS in this thread than you could possibly scrape off the ground of a Texas cattle ranch in a year.

My friends v6 automatic F-150 blew me away like I was sitting ...

$2500 isnt that far out of line from what I have been hearing from people. I wouldnt have done it, but its not out of line. Hopefully you got a good warranty with it and wont have to deal with it again.

That being said, these guys are right, you could have had it done cheaper. Dont sweat it. The ...

Iron block, aluminum head, if my memory doesnt fail me. Cant go out and look, I sold the car to my nephew, who continues to wreck it and wreck it and wreck it.....

I agree with neutral that you probably have a buildup of deposits in the cylinder, effectively pushing compression up, requiring the ...

Oh the ruckus..... The guy starts off saying he cant do swap because he has no money, but can do major mods. If he doesnt have the money for a relatively 'cheap' swap like a BP, where the hell is he going to get the money to buy monsterous cams, new exhausts, porting heads, turbo kits, intercoolers ...

I'm going to go out on a limb and say you will have an easier time pulling the engine and dropping in a BP than you will installing a turbo, plumbing an intercooler, and intelligently tuning it to be reliable. For $2000 you could easily find a decent BP, pay someone $500 to install it, spend another ...

The fact that its starting to burn oil and the oil getting back quick are part of the same problem. More than likely you have worn oil control rings (piston) or worn valve guides/seals. The blowby from either will cause the oil to go dark quick (due to the contaminants in the blowby gases), which ...