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Just replaced my radiator, water pump, thermostat, and temp sending unit. Just wanted to know if anyone out there knows the factory temp specs for the following conditions: 1. "C" on temp gauge 2. Lower line on temp gauge 3. Middle of temp gauge 4. High line on temp gauge 5. "H" ...

The fuel gauge position corresponds to the sending unit float position. The float is attached to an "arm" which changes position based on fuel level in the tank. Low fuel level will have the float near the bottom of the tank thus low fuel gauge reading on the dash. The fuel tank shape, as ...

Worked fine on my 92 MX-3

Sounds like sticking contacts within the switch itself. To test it, disconnect wires from it and them check resistance across the switch with an ohmmeter. If resistance is zero (or just a few ohms) the contacts are stuck closed regardless if the break pedal is depressed or not. This should take abou...

Have to agree with "Guyaverage." Most problems at idle are experienced by people who have mods or add-on electrical devices that change how the ECU "sees" the operation of the engine and the car. The ECU monitors hundreads of different combinations of voltage inputs from a variet...

Retrofiting to R-134a is no big deal if the shop does two things: (1) removes ALL the R-12 and the old compressor oil out of the system prior to recharging using R-134a and the new compressor oil and (2) charge the system with the correct amount of R-134a. If the system is properly purged of the &qu...

Once you verify that the A/C is properly charged (meaning the absolute correct amount of refrigerant and proper pressures), you could look to other sources for the idle problem. However, since the original posting said all was OK until the A/C was charged. The focus has been on the SA/C system. <p>A...

I would not worry if the "tick" goes away after a few seconds. Since it does go away, the HLA is getting the oil it needs. If you listen to engines in other cars that have more than a few years on them, you will notice most all have a tick for a few seconds upon starting. <p>Years ago when...

The Hydraulic Valve Lash Adjusters usually retains a little oil within them, so when you fire up the engine and the oil pressure "grows" the adapter expands quickly thus no space, thus no "tick."<p>When there is a faulty HLA two conditions are suspect. The adjuster is clogged (fu...

When the industry switched from R-12 to R-134a in 1994 if I remember correctly, it was believed the new refrigerant was "incompatable" with the old system. Many dealerships told a lot of people that they would have to get complete new systems. However, almost 9 full years of experience has...

The "clicking" you hear most likely is the air conditioning cycling on and off. It does that in response to both the compressor discharge pressure and the idle speed. When the ambient air temp is hot, the discharge pressure is high. This in-turn causes the high-pressure switch to disengage...

Had the same problem on my wife's car. There was a faulty temp sensor causing the ECU to think the engine was cold. This caused the mixture to be overly rich. This in turn causes a burn that is very "rich"(pun intended) with carbon. Even with a good PVC valve, a little "blow by" ...

I have a 92 1.6 manual trans. Same deal on the door handles.

In most cars the window motor can be seperated from regulator assembly. Thus making it "universal." <p>Alternatively, some motors have a gear drive (that attaches to the regulator)that can be removed and reinstalled 180 degrees in reverse to allow the motor to be used either way.<p>However...

Sounds like what happened to me about a year ago. First a little erratic gage readings, then it would only read from "F" to halfway down. Then it would drop to below "E." The problem is the sending unit (variable resistor) controlled by the movement of the float arm. For some str...