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get a local race fab shop to build you one. Make sure you have your rulebook handy so you can give minimum sized tubing, and give the size and number of hardpoints. also make sure you invest in GOOD padding, and get a real seat, since you now have rollover protection, and wear a helmet too, since re...

yeah, they're as good if not better than GC

that will be perfectly fine.


you should upgrade your tires....falken 512s aren't so hot.

Koni reds won't handle those spring rates. Not even close. you should be looking at Koni 8610s or similar... You dont want or need that much springrate in general. The ITA roadracers ran 500/500. 650/450 with huge swaybars is going to be a nightmare on the street. Why are you running those swaybars ...

Originally posted by mdavis: Am I missing something here? Are you just assuming Gro's project won't work or do you have experiance with this? Sure it may work...however. a) the stock brakes are perfectly fine for ANY street driving you might do given good pads, good rotors, and fresh fluid. And if ...

i would. I could spend 80 and get 4 good pads for the oem calipers, and id have a working brake system, and you'd have a box of parts.

:p

don't waste your money

not compatable.

he's wrong.

what exact MODEL of tire are you using?


Also use front to rear pressures to dial in the suspension a little better.

~38 is usually a good starting point.

for reference, if your goal is handling, the best you could do with street tires at this point would be to go with a 15 x 7 or 7.5, and get 205/50/15 Falken Azenis sports or Kumho MXs in the same size.

no...it's not too short. even in a ZE powered GS, if you have traction problems in 2nd, it's because of the tires.

The gearing would be better shorter.

205/50/15 offers better choices in tires, and will give you a bit more gearing...

tie rod... the thing that steers the hub.

the different offset will change the scrub radius a bit, and make the effect worse.