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Thats easy to test, just plug the sensors back in and see how well it starts and idles.
The other thing to try is disconnect the battery, which will clear the ecu, plug the battery back in, start and and let it relearn to idle. do this on a cold motor.

Andy P. 93 GS 1.8T

it is inside the hose about midway. I think you would have to cut the hose to take it out. the hose diameter is about 3/4" and runs from your intake manifold to the brake booster. pinch the hose with your fingers, when you come to a spot that feels hard thats the valve.

Andy P. 93 GS 1.8 T

there is a check valve inline before the brake booster, unless its bad you don't need to worry about boosting it.

Andy P. 93 GS 1.8T

it my guess that the incoming air temperatures wreac havoc with the idle air control. Right after boost the incoming air will be much hotter than before boosting. I don't think you need to change your timing, and unless you have that megasquirt hooked up you won't be able to anyways. Andy P. 93 GS 1...

I'm assuming you have an external WG. Most turbos come with a nipple, run your hose from that nipple to the side of the WG. My Turbo didn't have a nipple so I drilled and tapped mine for one. As for the nipple on top of the WG, leave alone. Bov, run that into any vacuum port on the intake after the ...

Yeah, I have been seeing those pipes on ebay for months. I bought mine before they went public, paid $550, now there less than half that. Oh well I'm still happy with them. My complete turbo setup with the Ebay price of the pipes would have come to less than a $1000. Thats less than a ZE installed a...

"my mechanic showed me in their big manual of all timing-belt specifications for all sorts of different cars. For the Mazda MX-3, it clearly stated in a paragraph that the 1.8L V6 is an interference engine." its a missprint. This was disscussed years ago. the book your mechanic is looking ...

Replace the timing belt, crank seal and water pump. No need to pull the motor. I would also replace the accessory belts as well. The labor price sounds good but the parts prices are high, very high. Do some more research, our motors are definitly non-interferenc. Even if you bought a KLZE, you would...

I have tried both ways with the VRIS. tied open and left alone. Honestly my seat of the pants dyno can't tell the difference. Not everyone is in agreement on this, but the majority seem to think that tying them open is better than leaving them normal. Besides my intake setup is so far from what Mazd...

If you haven't already, go to Probetalk.com. I have seen a couple of engine build lists there. try the turbo section first..

Andy P. 93 GS 1.8T

K8 intake is fine. I had the millenia intake already mounted before the turbo project. You don't need the phenolic spacers either. One of your turbo goals should be to keep the intake air temps as low as you can get them. the colder heat range on the plugs is just one small way to help avoid detonat...

Yes I am using the stock ecu. stock 02 sensors. I'm still using the VAF. stock fpr,stock fuel pump,stock IAT, I went with 1 step colder plugs, At first I gapped them to .035" but beyond 6-7psi I would get spark blowout. they have worked great since regapping them to .031-.032". I have run ...

Its a good Idea to have both, AFPR and FMU. So if you can't get a refund
you can still make use of it. More F/I setups thatn not use both.
Of course at only 6psi the stock FPR will suffice.

Andy P. 93 GS 1.8T

Sorry there not the same. The AFPR will raise fuel pressure all the time, while boosting or not boosting. I'm using the stock FPR. The FMU will raise fuel pressure also. but only when it sees boost. and then each psi of boost raises the fuel pressure by 8:1,10:1 or 12:1. so for me at 10 psi of boost...

Look at it this way, the J-Spec kl-ze puts out around 200 hp from the factory using 220cc injectors. At 6psi on a K8 I don't think you will be at 200hp. Your starting point is around 130hp and 6psi is roughly 60hp added. I have been running 10psi on my k8 for 5months,(knocks on wood) and having no p...