onlytrueromeo wrote:No strut braces yet. Had them on the old car but sold them w/ that. I'm not going to do more suspension mods until I get my bushings in. Then I might spring for a whiteline bar, and I already have wytlinks. Thanks for the tip about grease...lol for some reason I am stupid and didn't think of it.
Heh I
just ordered the whiteline rear 22mm swaybar. I'll let you know how it works out.
As for running the wires - already done
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
I mounted my xovers in the back w/ the intention of bi-amping sometime in the future. I only used 16 gauge though
![Confused :?](./images/smilies/icon_confused.gif)
I am only running 150w speakers and fitting anything bigger than 16ga was an even bigger PITA. If need be, I can re-run some 10g wires by pulling the doors off. Would make for a cleaner install anyway. I'm hoping I can do what I want with "bi-amping" with a 4ch amp, rather than 2 separate ones...I already have 2 and don't want 3 total! (One monoblock) I'm also deleting my capacitor. It was fun for the "bling" in the old car, but it doesn't do anything besides blink and I think the auto-on is broken (it doesnt have a remote, but turns on when car turns on...but its broke) so now it comes on whenever ANY voltage changes - IE door opens, light on, or...connecting the negative battery terminal = sparks! Yes my grounds are good...so cap will be going bye bye within the following weeks.
Good thinking.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
I did the same thing when running my speaker wires - left another pair for future keyless entry, which I installed a few months back. I had actually forgotten that I'd done that, and prepared to tear that stupid rubber thing apart, when I noticed the wires hanging there.
Don't worry about 16ga speaker wires.. your tweeters won't draw more than 5-10W at peak, and your woofers will be so distorted at 100W you wouldn't notice the extra resistance anyway.
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
If you're really worried about it, you can switch to 12 or 14 gauge for the woofer from the door to the trunk; a 1m segment of 16ga won't make any difference at all.
You can definitely find a 4ch amp that'll do what you want (including built-in crossovers). Take a look at the MTX C400.4 "Momo" .. it was designed around that, and though it's pricey, I've heard really good things about it. Disclaimer: never actually heard it in person.
Ya putting a big cap in the system is a total waste, given how crappy most consumer grade amplifiers' internal SMPSes are.
^If you can get an HUD w/ stuff like that, that'd be amazing......until then if I get a carpc I will have either the knightrider voice
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
or some swedish chick give me directions via sat nav. And I planned to install a voice monitoring system to play music on voice command. (Have that on my vista computer already, why not in a car pc?)
Ya dude, options are limitless! You can do realtime engine monitoring with OBD-II or standalone, G-force analysis with an accelerometer for instant-dyno'ing,
real GPS/Satnav, climate control, music and video, games.... it friggin rules.
I don't know how voice commands works w/ most front ends though - if I can tie them in together that'd be better than opening up a separate program alongside the front-end client. I haven't done research into this yet.
It's been a while but the old voice packages I played with used to have a mode for recoding macros the system could play back, so it shouldn't be too bad.