onlytrueromeo wrote:No strut braces yet. Had them on the old car but sold them w/ that. I'm not going to do more suspension mods until I get my bushings in. Then I might spring for a whiteline bar, and I already have wytlinks. Thanks for the tip about grease...lol for some reason I am stupid and didn't think of it.
Heh I
just ordered the whiteline rear 22mm swaybar. I'll let you know how it works out.
As for running the wires - already done
I mounted my xovers in the back w/ the intention of bi-amping sometime in the future. I only used 16 gauge though
I am only running 150w speakers and fitting anything bigger than 16ga was an even bigger PITA. If need be, I can re-run some 10g wires by pulling the doors off. Would make for a cleaner install anyway. I'm hoping I can do what I want with "bi-amping" with a 4ch amp, rather than 2 separate ones...I already have 2 and don't want 3 total! (One monoblock) I'm also deleting my capacitor. It was fun for the "bling" in the old car, but it doesn't do anything besides blink and I think the auto-on is broken (it doesnt have a remote, but turns on when car turns on...but its broke) so now it comes on whenever ANY voltage changes - IE door opens, light on, or...connecting the negative battery terminal = sparks! Yes my grounds are good...so cap will be going bye bye within the following weeks.
Good thinking.
I did the same thing when running my speaker wires - left another pair for future keyless entry, which I installed a few months back. I had actually forgotten that I'd done that, and prepared to tear that stupid rubber thing apart, when I noticed the wires hanging there.
Don't worry about 16ga speaker wires.. your tweeters won't draw more than 5-10W at peak, and your woofers will be so distorted at 100W you wouldn't notice the extra resistance anyway.
If you're really worried about it, you can switch to 12 or 14 gauge for the woofer from the door to the trunk; a 1m segment of 16ga won't make any difference at all.
You can definitely find a 4ch amp that'll do what you want (including built-in crossovers). Take a look at the MTX C400.4 "Momo" .. it was designed around that, and though it's pricey, I've heard really good things about it. Disclaimer: never actually heard it in person.
Ya putting a big cap in the system is a total waste, given how crappy most consumer grade amplifiers' internal SMPSes are.
^If you can get an HUD w/ stuff like that, that'd be amazing......until then if I get a carpc I will have either the knightrider voice
or some swedish chick give me directions via sat nav. And I planned to install a voice monitoring system to play music on voice command. (Have that on my vista computer already, why not in a car pc?)
Ya dude, options are limitless! You can do realtime engine monitoring with OBD-II or standalone, G-force analysis with an accelerometer for instant-dyno'ing,
real GPS/Satnav, climate control, music and video, games.... it friggin rules.
I don't know how voice commands works w/ most front ends though - if I can tie them in together that'd be better than opening up a separate program alongside the front-end client. I haven't done research into this yet.
It's been a while but the old voice packages I played with used to have a mode for recoding macros the system could play back, so it shouldn't be too bad.