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hehe, I've had 2 nissans and their engines are pretty bulletproof, it's good engineering but the body is weak against rust

I changed the fuel pressure [...] solenoid, and it started, not so good but it started, and my two vris solenoid are gone, i replaced one (only had another one) and it helps, the only code that's left is 46 (one vris)

But my timing belt tensioner was gone too and I had to replace it this morning ...

I had more difficulties downshifting in first when I got the car but, i don't know.. the car get used to it lol.. and i changed my oil for 2/3 of normal castrol and 1/3 of synthetic castrol at the end of winter, didn't feel any change. I'ma try something different soon I'll get you updated.

Most of ...

the coolant temp is okay now, I fixed it

I have fuel anyway, I'm getting pretty sure my distributor's having issues, I tested it and the primary coil winding and it's not within the spec (1.3ohms instead of .73ohms max) I wonder if the hei mod would fix that??

I no nobody who owns an mx.

Anyway, I charged the battery for the whole night and my CEL resurect

I got my codes too

5 knock sensor (but I cleared, and it's gone)

9 coolant temperature sensor (it's broken since yesterday)

25 fuel pressure regulator control solenoid

41 vris 1

46 vris 2

i don ...

you can try a left hand drill bit, it's about 3 bucks, be sure to punch the center of your bolt b4 drilling.

It's really important to follow the torque specification , especially for the "cam holder" bolts (11 to 14lbs), they break really easily, I broke one in the head cuz my torque wrench is not so accurate.. not fun to get off, but I don't think I hit 25lbs when it broke so...

in winter the first downshifts are quite hard tough (when the car's still cold, even in second) I heard that putting gm or penzoil syncromesh tranny oil helps big time but I haven't tried yet

I just left it alone, the poor little thing...

I just checked my crank pos sensor and it's all good according to the resistance readings..

All fuses are okay

I was beginning to undo so stuff under the intake to get the vaccum lines hooked proprely but the rain showed up :x

The crank sensor is the thing near the base of the dipstick right? I got it from the k8 but maybe it got hurt while transferring, this idea has been tickling me ...

Well everything exept the intake..


the circled module has no plug on my k8 harness (or it's really well hidden) and the two big plugs migth be inverted.

ok I tries your method and I have definatly no spark, I also tried to see if my dissy was 180degree off yesterday but you can't pu it wrong, it just don't fit cuz the cut in the where the dizzy "hooks" is not death center (not like a no trespassing sign if you like lol..)

But a guy on another forum ...

ok on the k8 distri it's not the same firing order labled, it's

546
123

but I tried the firing order you gave me, it still won't start.
Anyway, I have no spark at all

The engine had no cam when I bought it.

It's suposed to be off a probe that had a ze swap, the guy who sold me the engine seems ...

well yes, if it's the same order as the k8, but then again, even if it would be in incorrect order I would still see a spark no?
Now it shows no sign of spark, But I don't wanna blow my money on a hei mod if it's not the problem, is there any way o see if my distry's good w/o knowing is my ...

I just swapped my k8 for a klde

It seems that there's no fire, the engine crank but won't start and it seems to supply gas

I tried to get the codes (paperclip and CEL trick) but it does'nt work, I changed the CEL bulb and it does'nt help, I even tried to hook a tester directly on the cluster plug ...