Engine bay painted & rebuilt motor installed

Gro Harlem · Post by **Gro Harlem** » February 4th, 2005, 2:52 am

Here are the pics some ppl were asking about:

Gro Harlem · Post by **Gro Harlem** » February 4th, 2005, 2:54 am

btw the bay is the future color of the car

dewthis · Post by **dewthis** » February 4th, 2005, 9:08 am

DId you do anything special to the motor? Looks good.
I'm gonna pull mine in the next month or two.

JWMX3 · Post by **JWMX3** » February 4th, 2005, 10:14 am

nice Gro.......looks really good

what color red is that ? It dosnt seem like that long ago you had it painted ...

BoOdOg · Post by **BoOdOg** » February 4th, 2005, 1:12 pm

looks really good man props

Gro Harlem · Post by **Gro Harlem** » February 4th, 2005, 1:14 pm

Here is a previous picture:

The red on the valve covers is "ford red" I think. I used 1500 degree caliper paint & then some 1500 degree clear coat on them and its been holding up awesomely.

Also, accel silicone 8mm plug wires, a brand new optima red top battery and hose techniques silicone couplers for the intake.

the rest of the stuff is hose techniques silicone hoses & some red wire loom.

mitmaks · Post by **mitmaks** » February 4th, 2005, 1:46 pm

looking good, dont like it when someone pops the hood and engine bay is different color, nice color you got going

Gro Harlem · Post by **Gro Harlem** » February 4th, 2005, 2:14 pm

As for the setup everyone is asking me "wtf did you rebuild"

Not much, wasn't a complete rebuild just a partial.

Anyways, here is the old setup I worked from:
--KL31 camshaft KL-ZE Engine
--KL68 curved-neck KL-ZE manifold w/no egr ports
--SSAutochrome/OBX "hotshot-knockoff" headers w/2.5" carsound cat, 2.5" resonator, 2.5" crush-bent tubing & 2.5" JUN titanium muffler
--3" 88-91 Honda Civic/CRX Si intake cut to fit w/hose techniques couplers & generic filter.
--Stock distributor w/blown ignitor, HEI module installed under intake, MSD Blaster 2 coil installed by transmission & modified distributor cap for the external coil.
--ACT Stage 1 clutch w/custom earl's SS clutch line & shimmed slave cylinder

Here are the revisions/additions that I did over winter break:
--Brand Spankin new ALL METAL radiator, no more gheyz0r l33ks
--KL47 throttle body bored to 67mm by PMO
--Entire engine harness has been consolidated w/excess tape, loom & other uselessness removed to save some weight.
--Low-mileage 2000 Ford ZX2 SR gearset w/brass synchros (instead of copper)
--Brand New Tochigi Fugi Sangyo 2-way clutch-type limited slip differential w/4.11 final drive.
--Redline MT-90 tranny fluid
--New timing belt, water pump, oil pump & oil pump gasket installed.
--New main bearings installed (just to be safe). Wasn't hard at all.
--New rod bearings just in case.
--Camshafts removed & the Friction Gear Springs (FGS) were replaced with the revised Mazda parts
--Solid Lifters installed in heads only to find the intake ones are not large enough in diameter for ZE heads!! So instead I rebuilt & cleaned the crap out of every single HLA. Then I reprimed them rock-solid with oil (how-to coming soon)
--Umm......new 170 degree thermostat & gasket

Thats basically it. Heads were never removed, i just replaced a few bearings on the bottom end & redid the HLA and FGS stuff.

Also, for those ppl always asking about sparkplug wires. The Accels I bought are from a MX-6.

Notice my first pic has them routed around to the passenger side of the eng ine bay. That is why these wires are WAY longer than our stock ones.

Notice the picture after it (with red engine bay) and how i have them routed over the top of the manifold. That = a no no, they rub the hood & they are EXTREMELY LONG at the distributor end. Look at the mess they make near the disty and you'll see what i'm talking about...wires everywhere its annoying.

93SOHC · Post by **93SOHC** » February 4th, 2005, 4:04 pm

damn thats sweet!

93-Spec-Edn · Post by **93-Spec-Edn** » February 4th, 2005, 6:54 pm

Nice. Does it run any different now its been rebuilt?

Nallboy · Post by **Nallboy** » February 6th, 2005, 9:57 am

Did you just paint your IM? I was worried it might brown. I was going to get mine polished, but it's really expensive.

Gro Harlem · Post by **Gro Harlem** » February 7th, 2005, 12:21 am

Finally got the car on the road as of yesterday. I had a problem w/a horrible vibration at the front end & I thought I farked up the transmission or something, but it turned out the new remanu'd axle i bought was causing a horrid vibration on the passenger side.

I got another axle & its fine now.

Stuff that I should note is the damn idle is HIGH as crap b/c of the huge throttle body. I dont' think the t/b is closing fully. I gotta pull the springs off and bend em some so it closes better.

Also the engine sounds different than it did before. IT sounds f---in wicked. I gotta get sound clips. The valvetrain was ticking like crap when I first started driving but after it warmed up the HLA's pumped back up and seem to be quiet now.

Car is definitely quicker than it was before. Still a very boring powerband but it pulls harder up top & keeps pulling even past 6500 & even 7000!

Nallboy · Post by **Nallboy** » February 8th, 2005, 2:53 pm

Nallboy wrote:Did you just paint your IM? I was worried it might brown. I was going to get mine polished, but it's really expensive.

If you please...

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » February 8th, 2005, 4:36 pm

Nallboy wrote:
Nallboy wrote:Did you just paint your IM? I was worried it might brown. I was going to get mine polished, but it's really expensive.
If you please...

I can't speak for Gro, but I used wheel paint on my intake manifold, and that didn't brown. I wouldn't think a proper high-temp paint would brown if regular wheel paint didn't. If you think about it, the manifold should only get so hot because of the coolant lines to the throttlebody. Yes it gets hot, but nowhere near as hot as the exhaust manifold.

babyblueMX3 · Post by **babyblueMX3** » February 8th, 2005, 4:49 pm

Gro Harlem wrote:
Stuff that I should note is the damn idle is HIGH as crap b/c of the huge throttle body. I dont' think the t/b is closing fully. I gotta pull the springs off and bend em some so it closes better.

did the same with my millenia 67mm TB. Mine is being fixes now by Rob (czt). He said there's something special with the milli TB that he didn't know before he bored mine so I sent it back to fix the problem. I had the same thing as you. 1500 idle and had to press no the tb so it can close fully. The spring didn't seem strong enough but it wasn't the case