Did you check right at the pump? And check to the ground wire used by the pump?
Fuel Pump Relay Question.
Oh, EGI main relay then?
But it couldn't be if you have power to the pump and its not running. So the fuel pump does not run at all when you go to start? It should only run for a couple of seconds to build up pressure. Have you had someone listen right at the tank unit when starting? AND testing for voltage at the same time?
But it couldn't be if you have power to the pump and its not running. So the fuel pump does not run at all when you go to start? It should only run for a couple of seconds to build up pressure. Have you had someone listen right at the tank unit when starting? AND testing for voltage at the same time?
“You’ll find, that the only thing you can do easily is be wrong, and that’s hardly worth the effort.”
Well, I just used a test light to check for power lol XD
But yes , 99% of the time I can hear it whine to pressurize the system. somtimes I don't hear it though and the car still runs fine O.o
I noticed, after the Temp needle on the cluster guage gets past the first line on its way to warm is when it usually starts to die out..I cleaned my cap and got a new rotor and relocated the HEI module unit ballast or whatever to a spot where it will be cool all the time. so no i'll go check it later when I feel like dying in the middle of an intersection lol
But yes , 99% of the time I can hear it whine to pressurize the system. somtimes I don't hear it though and the car still runs fine O.o
I noticed, after the Temp needle on the cluster guage gets past the first line on its way to warm is when it usually starts to die out..I cleaned my cap and got a new rotor and relocated the HEI module unit ballast or whatever to a spot where it will be cool all the time. so no i'll go check it later when I feel like dying in the middle of an intersection lol
Ok, so the car runs? But sometimes stops? How do you get it running again?
Doesn't sound like the pump anymore... What made you think it was the relay in the first place? I thought the car wasn't running at all.... You also say sometimes no spark? How do you know this?
Can you give us as much information as possible so we can narrow it down. The common thing so far looks like its tied back through the EGI relay but who knows.
Doesn't sound like the pump anymore... What made you think it was the relay in the first place? I thought the car wasn't running at all.... You also say sometimes no spark? How do you know this?
Can you give us as much information as possible so we can narrow it down. The common thing so far looks like its tied back through the EGI relay but who knows.
“You’ll find, that the only thing you can do easily is be wrong, and that’s hardly worth the effort.”
Ok let me do a whole run down and then maybe you can help instead of jig saw puzzling it lol..
When I say it runs then dies, heres what I mean -
I can start my car in the morning and drive normally for pretty much as long as I need to but after about 35 - 40 minutes the car drives sluggish and poor throttle response. - Issue # 1
When this starts happening the Idle begins to drop down around 550 - 600 rpm maybe even less, sometimes dropping down to as far as 300 rpm before finally dying out - Issue # 2
When this happens, I try to start it. All it will do is crank over but not fire. I managed to be lucky enough to one day have it happen in my drive way so what I did was had a friend help me who was with me at the time for spark, easy enough done. Just used a spare spark plug which I keep 6 of in my glove box, Pulled the coil wire off the power tower and put a plug in there while he cranked the motor - No spark at that time - Issue # 3
After testing that out I waited a good 20 - 30 minutes and went back to my car - fired right up but after about 20 seconds of sluggish, chokey idle it died out again. I re-start it and this time it instantly dies out. So I once again check for spark, this time when doing it I have a powerful spark infact, shocked me through the boot lol - Issue # 4
At this time is when I figured if I have air, spark and compression..I must be lacking Fuel ? So at this time, I noticed sometimes the B577 FP relay was not 'clicking' when attempting to crank the engine over..so replaced - Now clicks but still has frequent dying - Issue # 5
Sometimes when I will be driving after managing to get it restarted, it will die out while at say for instance 45 MPH and the car will slow drastically due to engine not running, RPM needle goes to 0 and then if I push the gas frantically, sometimes, just sometimes it pops in the exhaust ( Due to fuel being dumped into the KAT I imagine ) And starts back up, RPM needle goes back to the RPM say 2500 RPM or whatever and I can go about my merry way for a short distance. After this starts to happen, it will happen every minute or two for the continued driving time. - Issue # 6
Now if I manage to get my vehicle home after this happens and I leave it over night after parking it or letting it die out as I pull in, I can go out the next morning and fire it right up and drive as the previously stated before 35-40 minutes before issues start to happen again. I have done the HEI module, Replaced 3 Coils, 2 coil wires, 2 power towers, 1 rotor, all spark plugs, all spark plug wires, 2 hei modules ( ballasts? ) or whatever they are and I have it overly grounded. - Issue # 7
God please help me lol..
I do have one CEL light on and it pulled up as a EGR code though like #16 or #13 forgot which but it's been on ever since I had the car and it only started to die out about a month before the HEI mod. So I basically drove i on stock OEM distributor and ignitor for over 6 months. - Issue # 8
If someone can help trace this down..I will love you forever lolol.
When I say it runs then dies, heres what I mean -
I can start my car in the morning and drive normally for pretty much as long as I need to but after about 35 - 40 minutes the car drives sluggish and poor throttle response. - Issue # 1
When this starts happening the Idle begins to drop down around 550 - 600 rpm maybe even less, sometimes dropping down to as far as 300 rpm before finally dying out - Issue # 2
When this happens, I try to start it. All it will do is crank over but not fire. I managed to be lucky enough to one day have it happen in my drive way so what I did was had a friend help me who was with me at the time for spark, easy enough done. Just used a spare spark plug which I keep 6 of in my glove box, Pulled the coil wire off the power tower and put a plug in there while he cranked the motor - No spark at that time - Issue # 3
After testing that out I waited a good 20 - 30 minutes and went back to my car - fired right up but after about 20 seconds of sluggish, chokey idle it died out again. I re-start it and this time it instantly dies out. So I once again check for spark, this time when doing it I have a powerful spark infact, shocked me through the boot lol - Issue # 4
At this time is when I figured if I have air, spark and compression..I must be lacking Fuel ? So at this time, I noticed sometimes the B577 FP relay was not 'clicking' when attempting to crank the engine over..so replaced - Now clicks but still has frequent dying - Issue # 5
Sometimes when I will be driving after managing to get it restarted, it will die out while at say for instance 45 MPH and the car will slow drastically due to engine not running, RPM needle goes to 0 and then if I push the gas frantically, sometimes, just sometimes it pops in the exhaust ( Due to fuel being dumped into the KAT I imagine ) And starts back up, RPM needle goes back to the RPM say 2500 RPM or whatever and I can go about my merry way for a short distance. After this starts to happen, it will happen every minute or two for the continued driving time. - Issue # 6
Now if I manage to get my vehicle home after this happens and I leave it over night after parking it or letting it die out as I pull in, I can go out the next morning and fire it right up and drive as the previously stated before 35-40 minutes before issues start to happen again. I have done the HEI module, Replaced 3 Coils, 2 coil wires, 2 power towers, 1 rotor, all spark plugs, all spark plug wires, 2 hei modules ( ballasts? ) or whatever they are and I have it overly grounded. - Issue # 7
God please help me lol..
I do have one CEL light on and it pulled up as a EGR code though like #16 or #13 forgot which but it's been on ever since I had the car and it only started to die out about a month before the HEI mod. So I basically drove i on stock OEM distributor and ignitor for over 6 months. - Issue # 8
If someone can help trace this down..I will love you forever lolol.
Swap out the EGI relay. This is in the fuse box in the engine bay. Mines labelled "Fuel Inj." or something - it just pulls straight out. Just swap it out for say one of the AC relays near the firewall (I'm assuming the ratings will be similar but check first or else we'll look for one we can swap). That will take out a faulty "heat" related problem affecting the relay. Don't underestimate the extremes these things operate under from negative temps right up to engine bay temps so intermittant faults will develop.
Its gotta be a candidate given what you say and an easy one to eliminate....
Its gotta be a candidate given what you say and an easy one to eliminate....
“You’ll find, that the only thing you can do easily is be wrong, and that’s hardly worth the effort.”
Ok so in the big black fuse/relay box on top it says "Fuel Inj." so I open it up , pull the large black relay - Part # B6S8 12V. And on the side it has printed in blue ink -
10M
14
A4
I have it out now but I don't know where to locate the A/C relay..I know you said on the firewall however..I have none there but in the passenger side corner in the pit of the wheel well or whatever it is, there is 4 relays covered in rubber...
Looks something like this - see below.
--------------------------------firewall
ground wire.
O- O'--
O- O--
10M
14
A4
I have it out now but I don't know where to locate the A/C relay..I know you said on the firewall however..I have none there but in the passenger side corner in the pit of the wheel well or whatever it is, there is 4 relays covered in rubber...
Looks something like this - see below.
--------------------------------firewall
ground wire.
O- O'--
O- O--
-
Philthy
- Regular Member
- Posts: 150
- Joined: December 9th, 2005, 1:09 pm
- Location: Sacramento, California
- Contact:
Just a note checking spark with a sparkplug will only mislead you. The gap is narrow so spark can jump during high compression. hold a wire about a 1/2 inch from ground (you might get bit or you could ground your pliers) then look for a sharp blue spark. once arcing you should be able to hold it an inch away and get consistant spark. Orange fuzzy arcing can indicate a weak coil.
92 MX-3 GS, KL-ZE, OBX headers, 2-1/2" exhaust, XL Performance muffler, AASCO Aluminum flywheel,Pheno spacers,APEXi Airflow computer,Eibach springs,Tockico struts, Toyo RA1 205/50ZR15s, B&M short shifter. MS control arm Bushings, SS clutch line, SS brake hoses
I used a spark plug in the coil wire because i didnt have easy access to spare wire lol but I did put the spark plug base near a grounded bolt on the body and seen a massive blue arc. My coil is new so no worries there..MSD Blaster babyPhilthy wrote:Just a note checking spark with a sparkplug will only mislead you. The gap is narrow so spark can jump during high compression. hold a wire about a 1/2 inch from ground (you might get bit or you could ground your pliers) then look for a sharp blue spark. once arcing you should be able to hold it an inch away and get consistant spark. Orange fuzzy arcing can indicate a weak coil.
Well...I swapped out one of the relays and drove it around for a bit tomorrow I will do a better check to see if the dying issue is still there but one other thing seems to have popped its head out of the hole.
The CEL light...
Ok so before, I always had the CEL light on and was able to pull code 16 or whatever the EGR code is anywho, now today I jumped TEN&GND to see what would pop up...nothing...The CEL light just stayed on..no flashing or blinking or anything..just on constantly even after 1 minute...same thing just on.
The CEL light...
Ok so before, I always had the CEL light on and was able to pull code 16 or whatever the EGR code is anywho, now today I jumped TEN&GND to see what would pop up...nothing...The CEL light just stayed on..no flashing or blinking or anything..just on constantly even after 1 minute...same thing just on.
-
Philthy
- Regular Member
- Posts: 150
- Joined: December 9th, 2005, 1:09 pm
- Location: Sacramento, California
- Contact:
im gonna ramble off some ideas. plugged exhaust can come and go, unbolt pipe before cat when it won't start. Also when it dies pull plugs are they black (to rich) or very pale (lean). Also during no start condition ypu can spray propane down intake with a propane torch(not lit) from the hardware store, if lack of fuel is th eproblem it will run on propane. And as far as relays, i have in a pinch carefully pulled case and if you observe burnt contacts file them clean (like us old farts used to do with points) (Grandpa what are points?). Ive had relays go for years after this repair. PS fine emory cloth works great for this. Let me know how it goes. oh another thing when it won't start pull fuel return after regulator and check fuel volume while cycling pump (cucle ignition key) pump should fill a coffee cup in about 5-10 seconds easy
92 MX-3 GS, KL-ZE, OBX headers, 2-1/2" exhaust, XL Performance muffler, AASCO Aluminum flywheel,Pheno spacers,APEXi Airflow computer,Eibach springs,Tockico struts, Toyo RA1 205/50ZR15s, B&M short shifter. MS control arm Bushings, SS clutch line, SS brake hoses
Philthy wrote:im gonna ramble off some ideas. plugged exhaust can come and go, unbolt pipe before cat when it won't start. Also when it dies pull plugs are they black (to rich) or very pale (lean). Also during no start condition ypu can spray propane down intake with a propane torch(not lit) from the hardware store, if lack of fuel is th eproblem it will run on propane. And as far as relays, i have in a pinch carefully pulled case and if you observe burnt contacts file them clean (like us old farts used to do with points) (Grandpa what are points?). Ive had relays go for years after this repair. PS fine emory cloth works great for this. Let me know how it goes. oh another thing when it won't start pull fuel return after regulator and check fuel volume while cycling pump (cucle ignition key) pump should fill a coffee cup in about 5-10 seconds easy
Well unbolting the catalytic converter is quite a chore and requires cutting off rusty bolts so I doubt that is worth the hassle to figure if my exhaust is plugged which I know it's not because my car has only 62,000 miles on it.
All my plugs have minimal carbon built up on them. Basically, they are clean and working the way they should be..My issues are electrical related I believe.