more kl swap questions...

[icajewler]

If I were in the shop I'd take a picture of it, but I'm hoping you guys know what I'm taking about. The two solenoids on the back of the k8 IM that have lines toning to the FPR and the EGR, do I need to do something about them on my wire harness? I gave those two and the EGR connection itself that are still unattached.

And secondly, where are you running your cruise control vacuum line?

And thirdly, the medium sized hose that comes out of the brake booster vacuum thing, do I just stick that into any nipple in the back?

[SuperK]

the two solenoids are only needed if you have EGR. otherwise you can keep the harness plugs unplugged.

Cruise control vacuum line can be run on any existing vacuum line if you get a T connector. So for example you could run it off the same vacuum line that goes to the solenoid for the charcoal canister, just put a T in between the manifold and the solenoid. The vacuum connectors you can get at any auto parts store, they have a variety pack of sizes.

you are correct on the brake booster.

[icajewler]

Awesome with the T connector. =] I'm going to attempt a crank and star it tomorrow after a quick morning baluster installation. First time start after swap tips would be appreciated

[SuperK]

most first-start failures occur from missing your grounds. Make sure all of your grounds are firm and connected.

A lot of people reverse the intake and return fuel lines on the fuel rail. Make sure they're in the correct orientation.

[icajewler]

ok... that's how I feel at the moment. I turn the key and not even the fuel pump primes. Nothing works except for the beeping when the door is open and every time I take the key out the oil light comes on and will not go off until I turn the key to start the car again (which still, does nothing.) I think I'm horrible at this kind of stuff

[SuperK]

There is a ground on your transmission casing.
There is a ground near the distributor.
There are two grounds near/on the passenger side motor mount.
Follow the harness and find any ground that may not be connected.


Also... use a working battery.

charge your battery up overnight and try again.

[icajewler]

I will check them as soon as it's light outside! I'm to the point where I'm starting to think that it was a bad idea attempting this by myself and without any prior experience...

[SuperK]

probably was : )

but you're here now, so might as well git'er dun

[icajewler]

Awesome! It turns over like a top! But there doesn't seem to be any spark... I had a spark plug tester but I cannot locate it. There are exhaust fumes (or some type of vapor that smells like fuel) and the engine just spins

[SuperK]

Look at the distributor wiring harness ends. Near those ends will be a small ground you need to attach to the body of the engine. That will prevent spark if you don't have it connected.

[icajewler]

ha, I just realized we live about a five hour drive apart. Just thought that was funny. Anyway... I changed the distributor and as soon as I cranked it it started. My oil pressure gauge didn't read anything after ten seconds so I turned it off and waited a minute and then cranked it up again. After no needle movement I just turned it off and shown a light at the engine to see if there was anything unnatural going on and I saw some liquid on top of the IM. I is too dark right now to tell if it's oil or coolant or what, so I guess I'll just leave it till I get home tomorrow evening.

[SuperK]

your oil pressure gauge... did you use the stock sensor or an aftermarket oil pressure sender?

I don't know how you get any fluids on top of the intake manifold... valve covers or the actual intake manifold?

Yeah NC isn't that far, I sometimes drive through Robbinsville/Murphy on some scenic drives with the missus now and then.

You're welcome to bring the car over if you ever need a hand getting things running right.

[icajewler]

I would love to have time for that maybe I can squeeze it in before I go to Idaho in October.

I'm sure it was on top of the IM. And trust me. I'm just as confused. I'm hoping some daylight will help me figure it out.

[icajewler]

Still reading no oil pressure I think it's the sensor but I'm not sure how to tell if there is still pressure with no gauge. And go figure, one of my coolant lines has a slow leak. One of the thicker ones under the TB. That'll be fun to replace. But, any experience on the oil pressure? I tried searching for a while but none of the cases I found sounded like a good answer.

[Sleeper6]

Still reading no oil pressure I think it's the sensor but I'm not sure how to tell if there is still pressure with no gauge. And go figure, one of my coolant lines has a slow leak. One of the thicker ones under the TB. That'll be fun to replace. But, any experience on the oil pressure? I tried searching for a while but none of the cases I found sounded like a good answer.

buy yourself a cheap $20 gauge at advance/napa and hook it up to be safe, the sensor should only be like $20 for a new one as well and wouldnt hurt while your there just pick up a fitting to tee into it while your right there getting a new sensor since you will have the thread pitch to match that way