more kl swap questions...

[icajewler]

So I am almost done putting together my kl (millenia I think it's 95 or 96) and I have a few questions:

1. Water temperature sensors. There are two three holes on my k8 and one on my kl. I have the KL36 ecu. Will this need those other sensors or will it be fine with just the one?

2. Intake issues. Are there any particulars that would make the install a little easier than (sensor and vacuum wise, like deletes or add ons) guessing and hoping everything works?

3. Although I am very familiar (and good at tuning) with an OBDII I am not so familiar with OBDI. I don't really know what I'm doing with this diagnosis system.

4. And yes, what do you suggest I do about exhaust?

I have no budget at the moment and I want to get this thing on the road. As soon as I have a budget, money won't be an issue. So don't be afraid to make long term suggestion even if they are expensive. (just remember I want to get it on the road asap, with no current budget) THANKS!

[SuperK]

You can swap the coolant neck from the K8 to the KL or you can tap out the KL neck to accept the extra coolant sensor.

You can see where I tapped mine out here:

viewtopic.php?f=46&t=81346

I used the intake tubing from the K8. it looks clean.
If you use EGR, keep the K8 one if you have the KL01 heads (some millenias come with KL31 heads in 95/96) because it mounts to the head and not the intake. If you have the KL01 heads you the EGR mount on the head will have a block off plate you can unbolt.

As far as vacuum, it should be pretty straight forward. You have certain components that require vacuum so you just run hoses appropriately. If you have an issue with the vacuum lineup, you can ask for help while hooking up and we can guide you in what goes where.

Use the K8 exhaust for now. Later on, you can get some steel headers from ebay for an affordable price. You can decide on your decibel level and budget whether you want to rework your whole exhaust piping and how much you'd like to spend on it.

[icajewler]

I don't have to worry about emissions at all, so can I get rid of the EGR all together? I have the kl01 heads. I am going to straight pipe the exhaust (well... I want to keep the mx3 muffler, long story) and it's going to have a cutt-out right after the headers join.

And I am going to swap the k8 coolant kneck thanks for that info!

oh, and by the way, nice build you've got. I wish I could get my engine bay clean...

[SuperK]

OK, if you don't mind the CEL light always on AND/OR have a chipped or KL31/36 ecu, you can just take the EGR and fuhgeddaboudit .

Otherwise you'll want to hook it up. The wiring loom won't reach the EGR valve on the millenia intake manifold so you'll be looking at extending the wiring harness to reach. I forget if it's a different connector (haven't connected mine) but if it is, you'll also want probably the egr end of a millenia harness.

[icajewler]

I love the engine light it's my best friend! I'll just leave it. I am cleaning the bay right now and it's actually not that bad. It's gonna take a day or two to get the klze ready to drop in (tight schedule with ...other things..) I think I will be posting diagnosis questions once it's in. I am not knowledgeable at all about OBDI. It's upsetting to me

[SuperK]

There's really "nothing to" obd1. You'll just jump the "TEN" and "GRD" points in the diagnostic box and turn the key on. the CEL will flash a series of long and short flashes (1 long flash = 10, 1 short flash = 1) So code 28 would be 2 long flashes, 8 short flashes.



02- crankshaft position (ckp) sensor or circuit
03- camshaft position (cmp) sensor or circuit
04- camshaft/crankshaft position sensor or circuit
05- knock sensor
08- Mass Airflow (maf) sensor or circuit
09- coolant temperature sensor or circuit
10- Intake air temperature sensor (IAT)
11- Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor or circuit
12- Throttle Position sensor (TPS) or circuit
14- Barometric Pressure Sensor
15- Oxygen sensor or circuit
16- EGR valve position sensor or circuit
17- Oxygen sensor (check the fuel and ignition system performance)
23- Rear 02 sensor inactivation error
24- Rear 02 sensor inversion error
25- Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid or circuit
26- Solenoid valve(purge control) or circuit
28- EGR vaccum solenoid
29- EGR solenoid vent or circuit
34- Idle Air Control(IAC) valve or circuit
41- VRIS #1 solenoid
46- VRIS #2 solenoid
67- Cooling fan relay or circuit
69- ECTF sensor


All other diagnostics will be with your eyeballs


to clean the engine bay, I got a gallon of simple green, bagged the sensors and alternator, capped the spark plug holes, and let it all soak. then apply elbow grease. Rinse off with a hose and repeat.

Mine is still dirty but meh. "clean enough". it's not greasy but it does have that aluminum patina on it.

[Daninski]

I connected the EGR and plug so I wouldn't have the light always on. If you do throw a code you won't know because the light is always on, capisce. I found drilling and tapping a coolant hole the easier of the two options you just have to make sure no metal gets into your system. Keep a vacuum on the neck and it'll suck away the metal bits. Ebay headers are like $160 delivered and are a good deal, you just need to cut a little out of your exhaust as they extend back more than the stock set up. Good Luck.

[icajewler]

I already have the kl torn down so replacing the coolant pipe will be easy as pie Thanks for the exhaust tip. I think I'm going to get custom split square headers and run my exhaust square till the cut out. I just wish I had more money for colt cams

[icajewler]

I have almost everything done except for a/c and alt. and those are too easy to even mention. However, I am confused about a vacuum line, or two.

I'm not sure what to do with these. I don't have a place they hook up to.


And this one doesn't seem to go anywhere either.


I think the second picture has something to do with heating? and the one on the left of the first picture as well? I am too unsure about the one on the right to randomly attach it to something or just cap it

[SuperK]

Cap both of them.
The first one is supposed to have a vacuum cap from the factory.
The second one is a coolant line for an automatic transmission

[SuperK]

The third is to the fuel pressure regulator and that's the return fuel line. You will use the fuel line.
The millenia KL you have has two fuel lines that terminate at the rear that you need to remove. I can circle them in this picture you posted when I am at a computer later

[icajewler]

I see the fuel lines. How would I go about turning them into one though? Do I just T it or do we have a return fuel line? And i'm guessing that I run the fuel line to my FPR?

[icajewler]

Ok. So after a using the vacuum line search for about a day and melting my brain with knowledge, I think I figured out what to do. I am going to run my fuel lines to the ones near the top of the tranny (incoming fuel and return line) they are right next to the filter anyway and already connected so I'll just use a jumper for the incoming and my return is the perfect length for the other nipple. Looking at pictures of other working vacuum set ups I noticed that the one in the upper right corner of the first picture people have run a line from that to something right next to the break booster (or around there) Do I need to do the same or will the plug I now have on it suffice? And the fpr (at least that's what I think it is. The line coming out below it is connected to a steel tube that goes to the top of the post-TB nipple) line in the lower left of the first picture I have connected to the nipple that looks like the same fpr on the fire wall. I still have to put all the liquids in the engine and accessories and that can't happen till this Monday or Tuesday, so I have some time to research more if I have to.

[SuperK]

OK so #1, outlined in red, is a single line that you can cap and block. that's a line for an automatic transmission. coolant line.

#2 is the fuel lines. I pointed out the FPR . You can run your stock fuel lines directly to the FPR and the intake fuel rail or you can use those metal lines that run to the back. I didn't.


This one is capped:


The only two large lines will be the brake booster and the PCV valve line. The PCV valve stock location is the larger one that sets vertically:

(black line with yellow dots)

and the one will be a horizontal line that pokes out the rear for the brake booster.

This solenoid:




is for the charcoal canister. You have one on the firewall stock. Use the one on the firewall and just tie in the vacuum line into an open spot on the manifold.

If you have any other specific questions I'm happy to answer them, just try to keep taking pictures like you did and I'll be able to try to label them for you.

[icajewler]

Awesome! Tanks for the help! I took some more pictures of what changed =]

The coolant pipe I traded out with the K8. It didn't have a tranny cool line. (Lost my 18mm impact socket in the grass on the way up to my shop for that ) you can sort of see it here.


I also configured my fuel filter lines yesterday while my daughter put srews in my spark plug holes. those were fun to dig out


And for the fpr I use the one taped in blue right? you can also see the return fuel line below the two heating lines to the lower right