RX8SE3P wrote:Does anyone know the benefits of the ZR1? Proven oil pressure gains?
I might use this thread to ask, what brand of filters do you guys recommend?
I've heard that WIX and Napa gold are as good or better than the amsoil ones (that I used to use).
whatever you do, don't buy a Fram (they use cardboard inside).
I'm also curious of what the benefits are of a bigger oil filter?
Bigger filter = more filtering, slightly more oil volume and I believe people have tested slightly higher oil pressure, I can't explain the last one except that maybe there is less loss in pressure through the zr1 filter?
The only actual benefit I know of for sure is that you have more oil, so it doesn't get dirty as quickly. I have some other theories, but need to look at the engine design better. If the oil pump is before the filter, having a better, bigger filter could allow more pressure through the system, since it wouldn't restrict as much.
Also, if you have enough extra oil in the system, it would cool down more easily, which is good for synthetic oil, especially. There is a finned Aluminum attachment that I've always wanted to try that you put around your oil filter that helps dissipate heat.
The only actual benefit I know of for sure is that you have more oil, so it doesn't get dirty as quickly. I have some other theories, but need to look at the engine design better. If the oil pump is before the filter, having a better, bigger filter could allow more pressure through the system, since it wouldn't restrict as much.
Also, if you have enough extra oil in the system, it would cool down more easily, which is good for synthetic oil, especially. There is a finned Aluminum attachment that I've always wanted to try that you put around your oil filter that helps dissipate heat.
Well, the oil filter is right next to the exhaust manifold... a finned oil filter might do more harm than good. :/
The only actual benefit I know of for sure is that you have more oil, so it doesn't get dirty as quickly. I have some other theories, but need to look at the engine design better. If the oil pump is before the filter, having a better, bigger filter could allow more pressure through the system, since it wouldn't restrict as much.
Also, if you have enough extra oil in the system, it would cool down more easily, which is good for synthetic oil, especially. There is a finned Aluminum attachment that I've always wanted to try that you put around your oil filter that helps dissipate heat.
I would be interested in your theories I guess if there were facts to back it up I wouldn't be so questioning do you have the link to the original thread?
Well if oil temperature is a real problem (ie. with a big turbo, lots of extra HP, racing, etc) why not just install an oil cooler? They're pretty cheap on ebay.
$25 for a sender/receiver oil filter adapter, $75 for a radiator, probably another $25 for mounting hardware, hoses, etc.
MOoneggs.. If you have pictures of the engine layout blow-ups, we could check it out. I'm going to look in my manual, but I think it doesn't show it well enough.
Regarding the oil filter fins; as long as the air temperature is cooler than the oil temp., it should do some good. It wouldn't be a cure for a problem, but just a little assistance. You know how I am; I would't pay much for it
If one did want it to make a difference, they could put up a heat shield, and direct airflow to the filter. If they were using the ZR1 with the fins, it would have alot more surface area than OEM.
I'll look in the manual, and make a better guess as to if the oil pressure is higher with the ZR1.
When I pulled apart an Mazda filter, it had a bypass on the end. I believe all filters will have this, causing all filters to allow the same max flow, unless you could change the diameter. (greater sectional area is greater flow) wheras length really only changes capacity and filter life... although they do decay regardless, like anything else exposed to engine conditions.
Getting a remote oil filter kit for a larger dia. filter w/ cooler and high flow/pressure pump would be the best setup IMO.
Run synthetic (because a fibre filter won't filter out destroyed oil chain particles) and you could run it for probably 10k.
Now with Moderator power!
Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped. Feedback
Ryan wrote:When I pulled apart an Mazda filter, it had a bypass on the end. I believe all filters will have this, causing all filters to allow the same max flow, unless you could change the diameter. (greater sectional area is greater flow) wheras length really only changes capacity and filter life... although they do decay regardless, like anything else exposed to engine conditions.
Getting a remote oil filter kit for a larger dia. filter w/ cooler and high flow/pressure pump would be the best setup IMO.
Run synthetic (because a fibre filter won't filter out destroyed oil chain particles) and you could run it for probably 10k.
Not exactly. The limiting factor for the flow is usually the area of the center threaded insert, or the combined area of the peripheral holes, whichever is smaller. The bypass at the top of the filtering element is there to allow for oil flow in case the filtering element gets clogged, therefore avoiding element rupture.
Personally, for a turbo/supercharger setup, I prefer to have a separate circuit for it, from the pump up, with its own filter, but that's just me, but that setup with an oil cooler should be perfect too.
About the use of synthetic, I couldn't agree more. Also, the use of a good additive (Z-Max, Prolong) would be something to consider.
Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped. Feedback