Need HELP with wire sizing and system install, What to buy?

[lakersfan1]

Well Ive finally gotten some free time to finish ordering what I need for my new system. I have a set of MMC6500's that have been highly recommended, and I will be amping them w/ my friends JL 300-2 amp. Right now I have a craptastic Jensen 425w max amp powering a cheaper JL sub (those came with the car when I bought it) I will be upgrading to a 12" w3v2 soon (probably powered by a JL 250/1 monoblock) I would like to put a digital cap in, as I have a 95 RS, and the alternator is rather weak. (60 amp) This is the system/wires I have pieces out so far - is it overkill? What should I change?

Already Bought:
MMC6500 Polk/Momo 125w RMS speakers (for the front, no rears as of yet)
JL 300-2 (for the front speakers)
Monster XLN Pro 4c-4m RCA's
JVC Arsenal KD AR-870 (5v preamps )

Plan on buying:
50 ft 12ga Speaker wire ($9.98 USD)
100 ft blue 4ga ofc Power Cable ($59.98 USD)
250-1 JL Monoblock (Hoping to pay under $200)
JL 12" w3v2 (Whatever price I can get off ebay)
Tsunami 2 farad Digital Cap (Blue LED one off ebay) ($80 SHIPPED)
Battery Terminal ($3.95)
50 Amp fuse w/ holder ($5.00)

Prices are either from ebay or http://www.millionbuy.com

I was thinking I could use the extra 4ga wire to do a ground wire kit on the b6, and still have enough to sell to my friends if they do an install in the future, or if I do a BP swap in the future.

Suggestions?

Thanks,
Romeo

for a 300/2 + 250/1 you only need a single run of 4 gauge wire from the battery realisticly. So 20 feet of 4 gauge positive to a 4 gauge power splitter, then enough wire to get from each amp from there. 4 feet of negative from each amp directly to a chassis ground. Walmart carries a kit with a single 4 guage and a power distribution block with some 8 gauge to run from there for like $35-$40 and it's Scoche so it's a decent brand. If you don't get that kit, then I'd recommend ordering from Sounddomain.com Thier wire and RCA prices are the best around for brand names. If you are using the extra 4 gauge for a grounding kit, I guess that's a good reason, but make sure you get a big pack of gold or platinum plated 4AGU ground terminals to go with it.

12 gauge speaker wire is DEFINITELY overkill though. 16 AGU is fine, 14 gauge is overkill. You're not going to be pumping enough power to make 12 gauge necessary.

[Marquis]

Well I guess wattage doesn't matter for speaker sound and quality but I run about 1300W to subs and have a new battery rated at 980 crankin amps and 775 cold cranking amps I have no problems with dimming or anything unless I stick in my other 1000W amp that I have. My Intrepid puts out about 65amps correct me if I am wrong.

[SuperK]

What you're looking at is PMPO wattage, I do believe they call it.

RMS wattage is another story. The ACTUAL output of a 1.3K system is what, like 120-150watt/channel depending on how much dough you've spent on the system.


My first amp, which I'm embarrassed to say, was a Pyramid (flame me please) 1300w amp.

It did 100w/channel, 2 channels.

[onlytrueromeo]

I got the system all installed, basically used what I listed above, except a bought a little cheaper cap. I'll snap some pictures soon, im very happy with how it came out. All I have left to do is build myself a custom box, Im using my old box right now, it will be a good winter break project.

Volume above 35 hurts your ears...alot... (goes to 50)

and no distortion from what I can tell EQ's set to flat, and I believe I matched my gains alright.

Defnintly spent a pretty penny on it all though. ~1k+ (Momo's, cap, 2 JL amps, JL sub and JVC head unit, wiring stuff, new terminals)

[Bochek]

What you're looking at is PMPO wattage, I do believe they call it.

RMS wattage is another story. The ACTUAL output of a 1.3K system is what, like 120-150watt/channel depending on how much dough you've spent on the system.


My first amp, which I'm embarrassed to say, was a Pyramid (flame me please) 1300w amp.

It did 100w/channel, 2 channels.

Ha i am on the other end of the spectrum... my first amp was a Orion HCCA 225 it was rated at 50 watts rms (2x25) and put out close to 800 watts bridged

[Marquis]

What you're looking at is PMPO wattage, I do believe they call it.

RMS wattage is another story. The ACTUAL output of a 1.3K system is what, like 120-150watt/channel depending on how much dough you've spent on the system.


My first amp, which I'm embarrassed to say, was a Pyramid (flame me please) 1300w amp.

It did 100w/channel, 2 channels.

WOW why did you buy that piece of junk again??? I myself go with some good stuff Earthquake subs and Earthquake amp TNT 1000W/2 channel to my twelves and Earthquake 2.3 300W/2 channel to eights for midrange.
The 1000W amp's RMS wattage is rated at 200W per channel at 4 ohms and 300W per channel into 2 ohms, when bridged the amp runs 400W into 4 ohms and of course the max is 1000W bridged and I have two of them but only one installed. Muhaha

[SuperK]

WOW why did you buy that piece of junk again??? I myself go with some good stuff Earthquake subs and Earthquake amp TNT 1000W/2 channel to my twelves and Earthquake 2.3 300W/2 channel to eights for midrange.
The 1000W amp's RMS wattage is rated at 200W per channel at 4 ohms and 300W per channel into 2 ohms, when bridged the amp runs 400W into 4 ohms and of course the max is 1000W bridged and I have two of them but only one installed. :twisted: Muhaha

Fair enough, good question. The amp was 50 bucks new. It was for a 85 beater nissan pickup that had never seen a radio before in it's life. I had 4" speakers in front, a 8" 15 buck sub in back with the pyramid amp.

Funny thing was, it actually bumped in the little craptastic truck. I was winning many brownie points with the "bro's"
It was just too "ghettocool"