Need HELP with wire sizing and system install, What to buy?

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onlytrueromeo
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Need HELP with wire sizing and system install, What to buy?

Post by onlytrueromeo »

Well Ive finally gotten some free time to finish ordering what I need for my new system. I have a set of MMC6500's that have been highly recommended, and I will be amping them w/ my friends JL 300-2 amp. Right now I have a craptastic Jensen 425w max amp powering a cheaper JL sub (those came with the car when I bought it) I will be upgrading to a 12" w3v2 soon (probably powered by a JL 250/1 monoblock) I would like to put a digital cap in, as I have a 95 RS, and the alternator is rather weak. (60 amp) This is the system/wires I have pieces out so far - is it overkill? What should I change?

Already Bought:
MMC6500 Polk/Momo 125w RMS speakers (for the front, no rears as of yet)
JL 300-2 (for the front speakers)
Monster XLN Pro 4c-4m RCA's
JVC Arsenal KD AR-870 (5v preamps :))

Plan on buying:
50 ft 12ga Speaker wire ($9.98 USD)
100 ft blue 4ga ofc Power Cable ($59.98 USD)
250-1 JL Monoblock (Hoping to pay under $200)
JL 12" w3v2 (Whatever price I can get off ebay)
Tsunami 2 farad Digital Cap (Blue LED one off ebay) ($80 SHIPPED)
Battery Terminal ($3.95)
50 Amp fuse w/ holder ($5.00)

Prices are either from ebay or http://www.millionbuy.com

I was thinking I could use the extra 4ga wire to do a ground wire kit on the b6, and still have enough to sell to my friends if they do an install in the future, or if I do a BP swap in the future.

Suggestions?

Thanks,
Romeo
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umcamara
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Post by umcamara »

Maybe think about a GS alternator swap instead of a cap, it may benefit you more in all areas.

You'll only need enough power cable for one run from the battery to the amps. You can use a power distribution block near the amps. That leaves you with about 80 extra feet of 4-guage after the engine grounds. :wink:
'96 Silver Stone Metallic MTX RS
'98 BMW 328is M-Tech

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Vanished
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Post by Vanished »

Looks good, i'd run some 4 guage wire.

I have that EXACT cd player and it kicks asssss. Good choice (did you read my review by any chance?) haha..and don't both with rear speakers, if you do get some cheap ones and turn them down.
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onlytrueromeo
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Post by onlytrueromeo »

Yeah I did read your review, and I really like the deck :) Cant wait to get my momo's in so I can hear the music quality.


I was thinking about doing an alternator swap, but I do want to do a BP swap in the future so that wouldn't be ideal. So no go on the 100 ft of wire? :-P I know its a bit excessive, but a 4ga kit runs $40-60, and only comes with 17-20ft power cable, and not all of them come with 12ga speaker wire.

I guess I should keep looking until I find a better deal!

Romeo
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onlytrueromeo
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Post by onlytrueromeo »

Found power cable (stupid me I skipped over it) 20 ft 4ga for $15. I'm going to go with this and not the 100 ft I didn't need...now which capacitor to buy.....
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Vanished
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Post by Vanished »

HAha i should of told you this earlier, but you can use the wire that they use for welders. Works just as good, but it's too late now!
1992 Blaze MX-3 GS *R.I.P.*

1993 Blue 93 SE-ZE

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Post by umcamara »

Vanished wrote:HAha i should of told you this earlier, but you can use the wire that they use for welders. Works just as good, but it's too late now!
Good call. Princess Auto sells welding cable. 4-guage is like $1.00/foot, or something ridiculous like that. Sure beats $5.00/foot for "Car Audio" 4-guage. I doubt that there's ANY difference in the impedence of the two.
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umcamara
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Post by umcamara »

onlytrueromeo wrote:I was thinking about doing an alternator swap, but I do want to do a BP swap in the future so that wouldn't be ideal.
The BP engines use the same alternator as the MX-3 RS. Therefore, I'm 99.99% sure that the GS alternator swap would work just fine. I believe it can generate about 90 amps, compared to the 70 amps of the RS one. It is also pretty much a straight bolt on, except that the lower bolt goes through the opposite way (So it's a straight bolt-on). Read up on the GS alternator swap if you're not familiar.
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onlytrueromeo
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Post by onlytrueromeo »

http://www.Millionbuy.com - 20 ft for $15 isnt too bad :) I've never heard of the welding cable stuff - havnt bought the wire just yet, so Ill hafta look into it! Thanks for the suggestion!
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Post by SuperK »

OK, if you'll allow me to throw a couple ideas at you, here's how I did my MOMO's:


Image


I was recommended installing the tweeter on that corner of the door panel, and glad I did. It looks good and sounds great! It doesn't sound very harsh, as it would if it was facing directly at you.


PLEASE install some sound deadening equipment if you decide to do this right.

Mostly around the MOMO speakers. Do so before you install the speakers, as it will give you almost 2 millimeters extra clearance from the window (this is important with these speakers!)

Also, wrap the speaker cutout in plastic then set your speaker in. It will be a great moisture barrier and it will also give you a more rich sound, as it won't fade away in the door panel.

I bought this sound deadener here:
http://www.mx-3.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.ph ... 7&start=15
and recommend it.

Also, you have to consider what you would like to do with your crossovers.
Some people place them in the door panel and forget them.

here's what I did:
Image

there's a little mount point that holds the panels to the frame. i reused that mount point for the crossovers, then screwed in the other hole to the panel. It is sturdy as everything and (in my opinion) looks sharp, as well as you can adjust the gain whenever you please, with ease.
My 6'4" friend doesn't complain about the crossovers taking any leg space, and it doesn't bug me (5'8", short :( ) at all when I'm driving.

here's what it looks like from the side:
Image


also, running your own speaker wire, get ready for a world of hurt... unless you're just simply much more amazing than myself.


running the speaker wire is NOT my idea of enjoyable... I drilled out some holes out of the plastic mount on the side of the door, and fed the wires through there

Image

but running them through that rubber sheath was not fun... I do believe I ended up tying the speaker wire to a sturdy metal wire or such, and fed it through like that. I don't remember exactly, but I do remember I didn't like it.


I picked up 50-100ft of speaker wire from home depot for cheap... i don't remember how much, but it's not smaller than 12ga, rca. it's in the picture.


I am also running two of Polk's MOMO 2 channel amps. one of them is bridged to a 10" Momo sub and the other is for the fronts. They sound WONDERFUL and bring the most out of those little speakers. Them little guys really pump!


Also to let you know, it's been over a half a year with this setup in my b6, and I have no alternator/starting issues. It is NOT necessary to up the alternator!

I did end up buying a Orbital sealed cell battery. They were highly recommended to me over those Optima batteries, and costed just about the same price. Which is expensive, but you know... whatever...

The best ground mounting point i have been notified as well would be the rear seatbelt bolt.

I think that's my whole two cents.

By the way, you'll love those MOMO's!
If you have any questions with them, let me know

-Kris
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umcamara
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Post by umcamara »

SuperK. Nice write-up. The only reason I suggested the alternator swap was as a replacement for the capacitor that he wants to run. I feel it would provide most of the benefits of a cap, but also help out in other areas (Headlight dimming issues).
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SuperK
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Post by SuperK »

I solved the headlight dimming issues with a chEap-Bay ground wire kit, rawr!
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Post by Mooneggs »

umcamara wrote:SuperK. Nice write-up. The only reason I suggested the alternator swap was as a replacement for the capacitor that he wants to run. I feel it would provide most of the benefits of a cap, but also help out in other areas (Headlight dimming issues).
if you are swapping alternators you might as well go for the 110 amp millenia :roll:
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onlytrueromeo
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Post by onlytrueromeo »

Thanks for the info Superk - I might have to buy that insulation. I read your previous post from awhile ago with you and chew* about the mmc6500's - which is why I decided to buy them :) I planned on getting some MDF cut into the shape of the speaker grill, and cutting another piece to go behind it, butting up against the metal, so the Momo's would be 1 inch from the metal of the door - enough for the window to roll past. I was going to have the speakers screw in through everything, holding it nice and snug and trying to keep the aesthetics clean.

I don't think I understand what you suggest about the plastic behind the speaker. Do you mean any type of thicker plastic (like heavy duty drop cloths) literally surrounding the magnet? I would think this would cause a "plastic bag noise" when the woofer is going. I must be confused as to how you set this up.

As for sound insulation - how does that stuff help against road noise? If I am going to invest in sound insulation I want it to help reduce vibration from my sub as well as reduce road noise. Also, is that material easy to install? I've read a few posts on similar items, and people have differing opinions about self stick vs. spray adhesive. Before I got the Mx3, I had no previous experience working on cars except brakes and tires - so any help you could give me would be great :)


Thanks,

Romeo
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SuperK
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Post by SuperK »

I have sound insulation on the door panels of the GS, not on the RS. The difference in noise between the cars is phenomenal. I don't even have the trunk done on the GS. Completely recommended. When I do full coverage, it's going to be amazing.

May I also point out that the MOMO's come with a bracket that you can use, you don't need the MDF board behind the panel necessarily. Your choice.

Also, about the plastic wrap, if you take your door panel off, you'll notice it's a thick and sturdy plastic moisture barrier behind there. That's the same kind of plastic you'll want to use. You can reinforce it with some of that sound deadening or tar/glue/tape to make sure it wont contour oddly and make any strange plastic noises.
But you'll decrease the dispersion in the door panel itself and should sound heaps better than not doing so.
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