MX6 swapped box but problems!! :(
MX6 swapped box but problems!! :(
Hi Folks,
Been offline here for a while due to my mx being also offline..
Just had the MX6 gearbox swap done by my local mechanic- not happy! The box itself is fine but I naturally replaced the clutch and outer cv's and boots. It now drives like a dog and judders from take off and there is a knock each time I change gear. I've had it back to him but he says he cannot find anything wrong with it and is trying to blame the new clutch....I suggested the mountings but he says they seem fine. I've jacked it up myself and the hubs themselves have no play in them as far as I can tell.
I did this swap to lower final drive but stupidly shouldve had the box split and just taken 5th out and had it put im my mx3 box as it's a good deal slower off the mark.. oh well live and learn.
Also when I reverse left or right the wheels kick back/skip/drag... like the alignment is screwed but it drives fine and straight in forward. Oh, and at speed if I turn through a left bend there is noise like what I used to have in my old rwd holden- like diff noise...
I have looked at the way the box is in and can some one tell me if the top front mounting point is different on the MX6 versus the MX3 as there is clean open thread on the left of the mount like there should be something there.. erm like a mount.. if you get me.
Anyways hope someone can give me a few tips as I'm not takin it back to him- I think hes actually a tractor mechanic in disguise!!
PS:
Some one a while back was askin me for UK spec glass lights- sorry I didnt get back to you but I was in Oz at the time so whoever it was drop me a line on here and I'll sort you out what i can.
Been offline here for a while due to my mx being also offline..
Just had the MX6 gearbox swap done by my local mechanic- not happy! The box itself is fine but I naturally replaced the clutch and outer cv's and boots. It now drives like a dog and judders from take off and there is a knock each time I change gear. I've had it back to him but he says he cannot find anything wrong with it and is trying to blame the new clutch....I suggested the mountings but he says they seem fine. I've jacked it up myself and the hubs themselves have no play in them as far as I can tell.
I did this swap to lower final drive but stupidly shouldve had the box split and just taken 5th out and had it put im my mx3 box as it's a good deal slower off the mark.. oh well live and learn.
Also when I reverse left or right the wheels kick back/skip/drag... like the alignment is screwed but it drives fine and straight in forward. Oh, and at speed if I turn through a left bend there is noise like what I used to have in my old rwd holden- like diff noise...
I have looked at the way the box is in and can some one tell me if the top front mounting point is different on the MX6 versus the MX3 as there is clean open thread on the left of the mount like there should be something there.. erm like a mount.. if you get me.
Anyways hope someone can give me a few tips as I'm not takin it back to him- I think hes actually a tractor mechanic in disguise!!
PS:
Some one a while back was askin me for UK spec glass lights- sorry I didnt get back to you but I was in Oz at the time so whoever it was drop me a line on here and I'll sort you out what i can.
- PATDIESEL
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Did you get new axles. It sounds like perhaps an axle is binding. Could be that you got MX-6 axles which would be too long.
As for the clean tapped hole, which mount are you talking about. There are three mounts on the trans. One front (close to he radiator), one side (close to the battery), one rear (close to the shift lever). However, all the mounts on the MX-6 are in the same place as on the MX-3. They are not the same mounts, but just connect to the same places in the same way on the tranny.
As for the clean tapped hole, which mount are you talking about. There are three mounts on the trans. One front (close to he radiator), one side (close to the battery), one rear (close to the shift lever). However, all the mounts on the MX-6 are in the same place as on the MX-3. They are not the same mounts, but just connect to the same places in the same way on the tranny.
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
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On the MX6's and Probe GT's that i have seen, the rear trans mount is not the same.... these seem to use a subframe mount, where the MX3 uses a crossmember mount. (this is the rear mount, by the shifter linkage...easier to see when under the car)
Hard to say, could be the clutch or the clutch slave...but kinda sounds like the internals are not cooperating.
Hard to say, could be the clutch or the clutch slave...but kinda sounds like the internals are not cooperating.
THINK FAST, GO RACING!!
2004 Mazda6 Wagon
2004 Mazda3 Sedan
1990 BG8P Protege LX - KLZE - Race Preped - #98 SM - SCCA Solo2
2004 Mazda6 Wagon
2004 Mazda3 Sedan
1990 BG8P Protege LX - KLZE - Race Preped - #98 SM - SCCA Solo2
Wow, same problem i have!
I have a K8 box on a ZE, blew the first one up and has the second one dropped in. I changed driveshafts but the problem whatever it is messes them up.
Turning Right or driving forward all is fine, turn left and all hell breaks loose, juddering, even under slight left steering and aceleration it judders. It only backs off when i balance throttle load with the rolling speed of the car...
It was fine before the engine was swapped, yet it went through MOT (Annual Vehicle Test in UK) fine...
Any answers welcome as its a pain in the arse.....
I have a K8 box on a ZE, blew the first one up and has the second one dropped in. I changed driveshafts but the problem whatever it is messes them up.
Turning Right or driving forward all is fine, turn left and all hell breaks loose, juddering, even under slight left steering and aceleration it judders. It only backs off when i balance throttle load with the rolling speed of the car...
It was fine before the engine was swapped, yet it went through MOT (Annual Vehicle Test in UK) fine...
Any answers welcome as its a pain in the arse.....
I replaced outer CV's and clutch. I had a rear wheel drift last night too- usually just understeers. I really thought I was going to crash and was unable to steer out of and just decided to hang on till it stopped.. facing the wrong way... And no, I was.nt being a boy racer- just a lil quick like I used to before I changed the box.
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I have a K8 box on a ZE. Running MX3 standard Axles...
I put some newer axles in, it got a bit better but the juddering was still bad, there is something wrong somewhere.....
I dont think its a bearings as there is no way a bearing can cause a judder this bad, as its smooth in all other driving with no noise whatsoever..
I put some newer axles in, it got a bit better but the juddering was still bad, there is something wrong somewhere.....
I dont think its a bearings as there is no way a bearing can cause a judder this bad, as its smooth in all other driving with no noise whatsoever..
- PATDIESEL
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Sounds like a bad axle to me. We experienced a similar problem on a ZE that used stock suspension, but when we changed it for aftermarket the car was shaking like hell. Turned out to be a bad axle and wheel bearing.
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
- PATDIESEL
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- Posts: 4476
- Joined: August 13th, 2001, 2:01 am
- antispam: ~SPAM*SUX~
- Location: Atlanta, GA.
I would generally agree that it might not be an alxe, but you are short on options. Check the hub bearing again, make sure the wheel is on tight and all bolts for the suspension are tight. (do not overtighten) There are only a few parts on the front suspension that will give a vibration during turning- breaing, axle (most common two), could be a loose bolt letting things bounce around (wheel, suspension, strut mount, strut). I would jack the car up, check everything with a shop light so I'm sure I'm seeing everything. Give a feel just incase it is something you can feel, but not see. All the grease, dirt and stuff can make everything look the same or cover a problem. Then spin the wheel around, turn it and push it up and let it down (compress the strut by pulling the wheel up). However, I doubt that will tell you much since I doubt it is bad enough for that little force to show the issue.
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP