What is wrong with this dyno?

omar · Post by **omar** » April 30th, 2006, 2:55 pm

Hi guys, need your expert opinion on this dyno graph. I think there is something very wrong with my car. The car is MX3 with KLZE. Below is the setup:
-65mm TB
-Millenia intake
-KF ECU chipped with KL31 EPROM
-2" muffler, 2.5" piping, K8 stock exhaust manifold, no catalytic conv.
-K&N air filter open pod
-AFPR set at 48 PSI

Here is the dynochart:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 36cac7.jpg

The VRIS is working, but the second butterfly (battery side) is kind of slowly actuated when triggered.

Could a clogged air filter or exhaust cause the torque to peak at 3.2K RPM?

Thanks in advance for any opinion/advise.

2.5mazda · Post by **2.5mazda** » April 30th, 2006, 3:00 pm

I know my 2.5 has amaxing torque out of the hole, but it falls on its face around 4000 rpm. I dont know what the deal is.

omar · Post by **omar** » April 30th, 2006, 3:10 pm

Have you try to dyno it? Probably we have the same problem...
I used to have KFZE manifold and 60mm TB on the car, and I could feel the VRIS kick in. Now with the millenia manifold and 65mm TB, I could no longer feel the "kick" when the VRIS kick in. I think I will try tying open the VRIS and see if there are improvement.

2.5mazda · Post by **2.5mazda** » April 30th, 2006, 3:11 pm

Those secondary butterflys internally may not be opening on mine, I havn't checked that out yet.

Slammed6 · Post by **Slammed6** » April 30th, 2006, 3:23 pm

I'm going with the VRIS points being off.

On your dyno the curve drops and goes up at the exact RPM of the straight neck (KL-31) and the curve neck is cmpletely different. I can gaurentee 10x smoother torque curve if u tie both VRIS open. But what you need is the correct VRIS points.

Also too check and make sure ur VRIS solenoids, and vacuum lines are not leaking and slowly closing as the RPM raises. Thats a possibility.

2.5mazda · Post by **2.5mazda** » April 30th, 2006, 3:37 pm

Ok, that threw me off, you can do away with the system completely and run the car with them both open permenately?

Slammed6 · Post by **Slammed6** » April 30th, 2006, 7:43 pm

You can, but is not 100% the best way for this particular application.

If you have the Curve neck manifold you need the curve neck VRIS...period.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » April 30th, 2006, 9:00 pm

Check my response in your ProbeTalk thread.

omar · Post by **omar** » April 30th, 2006, 9:36 pm

Quote Lakersfan1 in PT " WHY? The stock fuel pressure regulator already makes the engine run too rich. I don't know why you'd boost the pressure. Try lowering it back down to 43PSI or so. And I always thought the VRIS on the transmission side of the engine should be the first to actuate".

So I got the VRIS connector reverse ha?! For the AFPR, I think I will put the stock regulator back.

As for the VRIS point, anyone know what ECU to use to match the curved millenia manifold? I know KL47 won't work as it is for MAF type airflow sensor.

2.5mazda · Post by **2.5mazda** » April 30th, 2006, 10:43 pm

If I want to shoot nitrous on 110 octane with tripple thick steel headgaskets and fresh cylinder heads can I get away with leaving that system permanately open? I want to maximize performance for a few months and then ditch the engine for a ze, will it work?

Slammed6 · Post by **Slammed6** » May 1st, 2006, 1:07 am

omar wrote: As for the VRIS point, anyone know what ECU to use to match the curved millenia manifold? I know KL47 won't work as it is for MAF type airflow sensor.

The best ECU is a KL (US Probe/MX-6 ECU)...since the VRIS and fuel and timing will match quite well.

But to get the 100% kick of this hit up Probinator on here or MX6.com or 1stprobinator on Probetalk.com He makes a EPROM with all the curve neck VRIS points and the fuel and timing kicked up a hair to get the car some more HP.

omar · Post by **omar** » May 1st, 2006, 2:32 am

2.5mazda wrote:If I want to shoot nitrous on 110 octane with tripple thick steel headgaskets and fresh cylinder heads can I get away with leaving that system permanately open? I want to maximize performance for a few months and then ditch the engine for a ze, will it work?

I think with NOS, the VRIS is insignificant already. Many who do turbo tie open the VRIS also.

omar · Post by **omar** » May 1st, 2006, 2:42 am

Slammed6 wrote:
omar wrote: As for the VRIS point, anyone know what ECU to use to match the curved millenia manifold? I know KL47 won't work as it is for MAF type airflow sensor.
The best ECU is a KL (US Probe/MX-6 ECU)...since the VRIS and fuel and timing will match quite well.

But to get the 100% kick of this hit up Probinator on here or MX6.com or 1stprobinator on Probetalk.com He makes a EPROM with all the curve neck VRIS points and the fuel and timing kicked up a hair to get the car some more HP.

I think I will go Megasquirt way as my goal is 200WHP. When I was doing the dyno, I was the only one with KLZE where the rest of the gang are B6T, BPT and BPD. My MX3 KLZE look so puny as most got 190WHP and above.

Mnemonic · Post by **Mnemonic** » May 1st, 2006, 3:23 am

It's so nice to see more and more of the malaysia guys on the board, just curious do you hang out with any of the guys from My323f boards? I'm sure lots of them would get a kick out of your klze swapped mx3

As for the vris problems, the best solution without swapping your ecu (considering you are using either the kl31/36 ecu) would be to order 2 msd digital window switches to control the vris. I have the same problem as you and this seems to be the best fix.

Slammed6 · Post by **Slammed6** » May 1st, 2006, 5:32 am

If I want to shoot nitrous on 110 octane with tripple thick steel headgaskets and fresh cylinder heads can I get away with leaving that system permanately open? I want to maximize performance for a few months and then ditch the engine for a ze, will it work?

Honestly from my experience with a curve neck manifold i would leave the VRIS working as it will net you more power.

The main reason y i say this is beacuse the VRIS is suppose to close at 6250 RPM and that will keep your car making morepower. When you tie them open your car will peak power at 6200 RPM. When they are working and they close at 6250 RPM your power will keep going up til about 6500-6750 RPM.