What is wrong with this dyno?
What is wrong with this dyno?
Hi guys, need your expert opinion on this dyno graph. I think there is something very wrong with my car. The car is MX3 with KLZE. Below is the setup:
-65mm TB
-Millenia intake
-KF ECU chipped with KL31 EPROM
-2" muffler, 2.5" piping, K8 stock exhaust manifold, no catalytic conv.
-K&N air filter open pod
-AFPR set at 48 PSI
Here is the dynochart:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 36cac7.jpg
The VRIS is working, but the second butterfly (battery side) is kind of slowly actuated when triggered.
Could a clogged air filter or exhaust cause the torque to peak at 3.2K RPM?
Thanks in advance for any opinion/advise.
-65mm TB
-Millenia intake
-KF ECU chipped with KL31 EPROM
-2" muffler, 2.5" piping, K8 stock exhaust manifold, no catalytic conv.
-K&N air filter open pod
-AFPR set at 48 PSI
Here is the dynochart:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 36cac7.jpg
The VRIS is working, but the second butterfly (battery side) is kind of slowly actuated when triggered.
Could a clogged air filter or exhaust cause the torque to peak at 3.2K RPM?
Thanks in advance for any opinion/advise.
Have you try to dyno it? Probably we have the same problem...
I used to have KFZE manifold and 60mm TB on the car, and I could feel the VRIS kick in. Now with the millenia manifold and 65mm TB, I could no longer feel the "kick" when the VRIS kick in. I think I will try tying open the VRIS and see if there are improvement.
I used to have KFZE manifold and 60mm TB on the car, and I could feel the VRIS kick in. Now with the millenia manifold and 65mm TB, I could no longer feel the "kick" when the VRIS kick in. I think I will try tying open the VRIS and see if there are improvement.
I'm going with the VRIS points being off.
On your dyno the curve drops and goes up at the exact RPM of the straight neck (KL-31) and the curve neck is cmpletely different. I can gaurentee 10x smoother torque curve if u tie both VRIS open. But what you need is the correct VRIS points.
Also too check and make sure ur VRIS solenoids, and vacuum lines are not leaking and slowly closing as the RPM raises. Thats a possibility.![Idea :idea:](./images/smilies/icon_idea.gif)
![Idea :idea:](./images/smilies/icon_idea.gif)
On your dyno the curve drops and goes up at the exact RPM of the straight neck (KL-31) and the curve neck is cmpletely different. I can gaurentee 10x smoother torque curve if u tie both VRIS open. But what you need is the correct VRIS points.
Also too check and make sure ur VRIS solenoids, and vacuum lines are not leaking and slowly closing as the RPM raises. Thats a possibility.
![Idea :idea:](./images/smilies/icon_idea.gif)
***D-Tuned Custom KL MX-3 on Nitrous***
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3825
- Joined: June 26th, 2003, 2:01 am
- Location: Puyallup, WA
Quote Lakersfan1 in PT " WHY? The stock fuel pressure regulator already makes the engine run too rich. I don't know why you'd boost the pressure. Try lowering it back down to 43PSI or so. And I always thought the VRIS on the transmission side of the engine should be the first to actuate".
So I got the VRIS connector reverse ha?! For the AFPR, I think I will put the stock regulator back.
As for the VRIS point, anyone know what ECU to use to match the curved millenia manifold? I know KL47 won't work as it is for MAF type airflow sensor.
So I got the VRIS connector reverse ha?! For the AFPR, I think I will put the stock regulator back.
As for the VRIS point, anyone know what ECU to use to match the curved millenia manifold? I know KL47 won't work as it is for MAF type airflow sensor.
The best ECU is a KL (US Probe/MX-6 ECU)...since the VRIS and fuel and timing will match quite well.omar wrote: As for the VRIS point, anyone know what ECU to use to match the curved millenia manifold? I know KL47 won't work as it is for MAF type airflow sensor.
But to get the 100% kick of this hit up Probinator on here or MX6.com or 1stprobinator on Probetalk.com He makes a EPROM with all the curve neck VRIS points and the fuel and timing kicked up a hair to get the car some more HP.
***D-Tuned Custom KL MX-3 on Nitrous***
I think with NOS, the VRIS is insignificant already. Many who do turbo tie open the VRIS also.2.5mazda wrote:If I want to shoot nitrous on 110 octane with tripple thick steel headgaskets and fresh cylinder heads can I get away with leaving that system permanately open? I want to maximize performance for a few months and then ditch the engine for a ze, will it work?
I think I will go Megasquirt way as my goal is 200WHP. When I was doing the dyno, I was the only one with KLZE where the rest of the gang are B6T, BPT and BPD. My MX3 KLZE look so puny as most got 190WHP and above.Slammed6 wrote:The best ECU is a KL (US Probe/MX-6 ECU)...since the VRIS and fuel and timing will match quite well.omar wrote: As for the VRIS point, anyone know what ECU to use to match the curved millenia manifold? I know KL47 won't work as it is for MAF type airflow sensor.
But to get the 100% kick of this hit up Probinator on here or MX6.com or 1stprobinator on Probetalk.com He makes a EPROM with all the curve neck VRIS points and the fuel and timing kicked up a hair to get the car some more HP.
-
- Forum Moderator
- Posts: 3415
- Joined: September 3rd, 2002, 2:01 am
- Location: Eastern Hemisphere
- Contact:
It's so nice to see more and more of the malaysia guys on the board, just curious do you hang out with any of the guys from My323f boards? I'm sure lots of them would get a kick out of your klze swapped mx3 ![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
As for the vris problems, the best solution without swapping your ecu (considering you are using either the kl31/36 ecu) would be to order 2 msd digital window switches to control the vris. I have the same problem as you and this seems to be the best fix.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
As for the vris problems, the best solution without swapping your ecu (considering you are using either the kl31/36 ecu) would be to order 2 msd digital window switches to control the vris. I have the same problem as you and this seems to be the best fix.
08 Infiniti G37s 6speed (The Daily)
Stillen Cold Air Intake, Z1 Plenum Power Mod, Z1 Headers, Z1 Test Pipe, OBX (Ark) Exhaust, Up-Rev Osiris Engine Management (Tuned at Z1), 20x9" 20x10" Str Racing Concave Staggered Rims, SPC Camber kit, Tein H Techs Springs
01 Lexus Is300 (LS2 Project)
93 Mx3 SE 2.5 KLZE (sold it)
93 Mx3 GS 2.0 KFZE (killed it)
Stillen Cold Air Intake, Z1 Plenum Power Mod, Z1 Headers, Z1 Test Pipe, OBX (Ark) Exhaust, Up-Rev Osiris Engine Management (Tuned at Z1), 20x9" 20x10" Str Racing Concave Staggered Rims, SPC Camber kit, Tein H Techs Springs
01 Lexus Is300 (LS2 Project)
93 Mx3 SE 2.5 KLZE (sold it)
93 Mx3 GS 2.0 KFZE (killed it)
Honestly from my experience with a curve neck manifold i would leave the VRIS working as it will net you more power.If I want to shoot nitrous on 110 octane with tripple thick steel headgaskets and fresh cylinder heads can I get away with leaving that system permanately open? I want to maximize performance for a few months and then ditch the engine for a ze, will it work?
The main reason y i say this is beacuse the VRIS is suppose to close at 6250 RPM and that will keep your car making morepower. When you tie them open your car will peak power at 6200 RPM. When they are working and they close at 6250 RPM your power will keep going up til about 6500-6750 RPM.
***D-Tuned Custom KL MX-3 on Nitrous***