Disabling Thermostat
Disabling Thermostat
I need a quick fix for my thermostat.
My engine continually overheats, and I believe it is the thermostat because sometimes the temp gaug egoes sky high, and then after a few minutes it all of the sudden goes back to the mid point, and I can feel the hot air coming from the vents (when driving with the heat on full all the time to check it). This process happens repeatedly, although it can go a while before it kicks in meaning I have to pull over to the side of the road.
How do I disable/bypass it so it runs the entire time.
Is it easy?
Thank you!
My engine continually overheats, and I believe it is the thermostat because sometimes the temp gaug egoes sky high, and then after a few minutes it all of the sudden goes back to the mid point, and I can feel the hot air coming from the vents (when driving with the heat on full all the time to check it). This process happens repeatedly, although it can go a while before it kicks in meaning I have to pull over to the side of the road.
How do I disable/bypass it so it runs the entire time.
Is it easy?
Thank you!
Last edited by anvil82 on October 24th, 2005, 12:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Typhoonk
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sounds like u got air in your cooling system.
U will have to bleed out your system to get rid of the air.
1. wait this the engine is bone cold.
2. Take of the rad cap.
3. Top off the rad with 50/50 cooland and water.
4. pump the two hoses (top and bottom) to get some of the air out.
5. Turn on your car and let it idle with the rad cap off.
6. Watch the level of fluid at the top of the rad. When the engine warms up just keep topping off the rad untill it stays full
Now stop the engine. Make sure there is fluid in your reserve container. Then take it for a long drive on the highway and in stop and go places to see if it overheats again.
word.
U will have to bleed out your system to get rid of the air.
1. wait this the engine is bone cold.
2. Take of the rad cap.
3. Top off the rad with 50/50 cooland and water.
4. pump the two hoses (top and bottom) to get some of the air out.
5. Turn on your car and let it idle with the rad cap off.
6. Watch the level of fluid at the top of the rad. When the engine warms up just keep topping off the rad untill it stays full
Now stop the engine. Make sure there is fluid in your reserve container. Then take it for a long drive on the highway and in stop and go places to see if it overheats again.
word.
-------------------------------------------------------
Got to sell one of my cars to cover the bills
2002 Mazda Protege 5 - Manual, Blue colour fully loaded
PM for info
Got to sell one of my cars to cover the bills
2002 Mazda Protege 5 - Manual, Blue colour fully loaded
PM for info
- ryanlindenberg
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just squeeze the two hoses that are coming out of the radiator.
if you want to "disable" your thermostat you can just take it out and run the car without one.
if you want to "disable" your thermostat you can just take it out and run the car without one.
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- neutral
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Agree w/jimishadow - just replace the thermostat. Not unusual at all for a thermostat to "flake out" intermittently like you've described yours doing, when it's gone/going bad. Time for a new one. The online shop manual http://mx-3.com/95manual explains the procedure in section E1, pg. 009. That's for the 94/95 4 cyl. but the procedure is really the same for any engine, in case you have a pre-94 model. Only dif might be the exact location of the thermostat housing however, it will always be found along the engine side (end) of the upper radiator hose.
-Jim
'93 MX3 1.6 same problem overheating
I am having the same problem. My 1993 MX3 1.6 started overheating, I changed out thermostat, completely flushed engine, put radiator flush in and ran engine 10 mins (with heater on full blast), emptied out flush, put about 70/30 anti-freeze/water, and now overheating worse. Hoses are fine, no cracks or leaks. My overfill reservoir stays empty. Could this be causing the problem?, or maybe the radiator cap? I was told that a "faulty" or worn radiator cap can cause overheating too. MAybe heater coil, since my heater doesn't blow warm either? Im goin' nuts here!!!!!! Help!!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: '93 MX3 1.6 same problem overheating
Billyd wrote:I am having the same problem. My 1993 MX3 1.6 started overheating, I changed out thermostat, completely flushed engine, put radiator flush in and ran engine 10 mins (with heater on full blast), emptied out flush, put about 70/30 anti-freeze/water, and now overheating worse. Hoses are fine, no cracks or leaks. My overfill reservoir stays empty. Could this be causing the problem?, or maybe the radiator cap? I was told that a "faulty" or worn radiator cap can cause overheating too. MAybe heater coil, since my heater doesn't blow warm either? Im goin' nuts here!!!!!! Help!!!!!!!!!!!!
Are you even sure the water pump is working?
it's a new waterpump....but I pulled a lot of sludge out of it (the radiator) after I put the water pump in and drove it for a couple weeks. After I posted the previous I thought about that and went out and started it, opened radiator top, tried to squeeze hoses to air out the system, and noticed hoses had no pressure...so I think you may be right, I have a feeling all that sludge effed up the pump. I mean the sludge was thicker than mud, I had to use my hand to dig it out of the radiator opening. If the water pump stops, shouldn't water come out of it, or maybe it is just clogged up? Thanks for the reply....
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That sludge is whatcha get when your coolant and engine oil mix together (=BAD) and like jimishadow said, means a blown head gasket. Pretty significant repair needed to remove the cyl head, clean that junk out of the oil and cooling passages/system, have the head checked for warping, and either planed (or replaced if it's too warped to repair), then reinstall everything to spec with a new head gasket. Check your oil and you will probably see the same sludgy stuff on the dipstick.Billyd wrote:it's a new waterpump....but I pulled a lot of sludge out of it (the radiator) after I put the water pump in and drove it for a couple weeks. After I posted the previous I thought about that and went out and started it, opened radiator top, tried to squeeze hoses to air out the system, and noticed hoses had no pressure...so I think you may be right, I have a feeling all that sludge effed up the pump. I mean the sludge was thicker than mud, I had to use my hand to dig it out of the radiator opening. If the water pump stops, shouldn't water come out of it, or maybe it is just clogged up? Thanks for the reply....
Now anvil82's prob sounds like just a bad thermostat at this stage altho allowing continual overheating could lead to the same prob since high enough overheating is what warps the cylinder head and blows the head gasket.
-Jim
damn.....car stlll runs strong and everything....no funny smoke or weird noises so I didn't think head gasket...any possibilty not just water pump huh? The oil looks fine, and I think the sludge is rust, cause car sat for months and obviusly coolant never changed, radiator never flished.....oh well. I'll check water pump this weekend and if that's no good I'll try head gasket. Thanks guys!!!
- ryanlindenberg
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your oil level doesn't go down at all?
it does sound like your heater core is plugged if it won't blow warm air. if that is the case i'm sure your radiator isn't flowing too well either.
have you been continually filling the radiator and overflow tank?
it does sound like your heater core is plugged if it won't blow warm air. if that is the case i'm sure your radiator isn't flowing too well either.
have you been continually filling the radiator and overflow tank?
CARDOMAIN WITH UPDATED PICS
"There are 2 kinds of pedestrians, the quick and the dead."
"There are 2 kinds of pedestrians, the quick and the dead."