ebay inline blower worth it?

[Gkreator]

Originally posted by atlantamx3:
Alrighty GKreator-- go ahead and try it-- but hundreds of stupid people beofre you have tried it and discovered it is trash.

If I am not mistaken, I think Barry & Brian (Mnemonic) did their own research on these little pieces of crap and discovered that they actually hinder the airflow because the fan cannot spin fast enough to even compensate for the the intake pressure-- much less add to it.

So, Justify your reasons that it is good all that you want to-- but you are not the 1st to try it.

Stay away from it.. just some friendly advice from your Mx-3 Community.

Thanks Perry for the advice. I'm more curious just to try this out even if just for a laugh. I'll let you know how it goes. You are probably right but I'm pretty bored. If it does work then I'll see you all in my rear view.

[Gkreator]

Originally posted by atlantamx3:

Originally posted by Gkreator:
(Lets not forget that turbo fans can also be plastic)

WHAT??

I know you are not talking about Vehicle turbos... because the temps on those are several hundred degrees. Sorry, but plastic will melt at those temps.

LOL! I was wondering how long it would take before someone caught that.

[992mmx3]

Originally posted by superslacker:
i need educated...
is this garbage, or would would there actually be a performance gain?

<img src="http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/27242/ ... 077_vl.jpg" alt=" - " />

[Gkreator]

I emailed this guy the link from homeadeturbo.com and this is his reply:

Nothing is sent with the blowers.just the blowers and the instructions on what to do and

how to wire it to a toggel. Theres SOOO many colors and chioces for toggel switches and

silicone sleeves, that I don't want to have to charge the customers MORE money for

something that they DON'T want or the wrong color for their car. I leave that up to them.

I don't remember emailing you prior to this purchase. I'm going to send you some

information. AND YES, thes blowers look almost identical to the ones in that link that

you told me to look at.just like the picture in my auction description. You have

purchased TWO 4" inline blowers that blow 240 cfm a piece.just like in the description.

Email me back if you need too.



It's really NOT about the money...it's about the fact that I figured out HOW to make this

IDEA work by finding the right blowers, and I want everyone that has been thinking

of getting "something" LIKE this for their car to have a chance to get something that

actually works, at a reasonable price. My father designs lazers with MIT and NASA, and my

wife has been an engineer for over ten years now...and it took us 7 weeks to find the right

blowers for this purpose that could do the job correctly. I KNOW that the other guys that

are selling blowers JUST found ANY-DAMN-THING that looked like what I'm selling and put out

some air...just looking some "quick cash"

... yes, the blowers that I'm selling COST more. (I mean, more than the $20 these

other fellas are spending to get their blowers), but mine actually DO what they are supposed

to do...in short...they create actual boost to your motor.

I have a passion for creating things ( you know, one of the kids that spent A LOT of time

with toys like LEGOS ) and I like challenges, I'm getting about 320 horsepower out of one

of my little Hondas with a 1.6 SOHC...( just for "****s and grins") and this blower system

has a lot to do with that. If you install it properly, you should get good GAINS out of your

car...if you wanna "pin me down" and have me gaurantee you a certain amount of actual

horse-power ratings...you're beat...that would literally be impossible to do...

TELL YOU WHAT...

( maybe you could call me and back your vehicle up to the phone... and rev it up a few times

so that I could hear how well your motor is running ??? That's rediculous right?

Well, so is someone asking me to gaurantee horse-power ratings on THEIR car, sight unseen,

over the internet's email. It's impossible...there's TOO many variables and every motor is

different.



Ever notice how a smaller CID motor always has problems getting into its POWER range?

0 to 3500 is pretty much a large dead-spot... after that, from about 4000 to 8000 RPM it's

great. That's the "sweet-zone" for a four or six cylinder motor. A motor NEEDS approx.

85 - 90 cfm to operate properly, per 1000 RPM, some need a little more and some a little

less per RPM. So, if this system were to run at full throttle ( approx. 500 to 520 cfm ) it

would cover the RPM range up to about 6000 RPM. And the ONLY way that you'll have enough

cfm being FORCED into the motor up to 5800 rpm is to run two of these blowers together

"piggy-backed" inline. There's other fellas on ebay right now selling 150 cfm systems for

$159.99 like Jason Jones and the "crx-man" These two "fellas" SAW MY system, READ my

feedback, CHECKED the reviews from my feedback... & somehow contacted my buyers and found

out the system is working great for them. So now these "goof-troops" have started selling

"some kind" of 240 cfm blower and they'll give you a "free chip" and shipping for $49.99,

and the other one will email you some plans ( and they'll tell you to go and buy a bunch of

junk that'll run about $110.00 ) for $4.00. I've talked to Jason and Brian both about this

"system" they have on ebay right now. I was pissed, cause it won't work...and people are

gonna buy the damn things and be pissed...and will think that ALL set-ups are rip-offs.

That sucks. Because the other systems are only going to give a car up to 200 cfm ???

Which means that even IF thay have found the correct blower ( and between the fraud reports

and lack of intellegence...I KNOW THEY DID NOT research this properly ) but, EVEN IF they

HAVE FOUND the right blowers...their system is only going to slightly enhance power up to

2500 rpm... and if they DID the research...they'd KNOW THAT ( not that they'd actually tell

you that), and they'll swear to a 30 horse gain from just ONE blower...which is an out-N-out

lie... and for $50.00 to $110.00, that really sucks *** .





Heres the basics in a very UN-technical NUTSHELL:

More cold-air = More horse...and heres basically how...

I ALWAYS suggest TWO high-pressure blowers...NOT because of sales...but because of the

ACTUAL way this system is designed...TWO 4" blowers is really very essential to the gains

in MORE HORSEPOWER and PSI BOOST. One blower pulls in 240 cfm and begins "spinning it"...

then it directly hits the second blower that is attached to the first blower...the second

blower pulls another 240 cfm, creating 500+ cfm of high-pressure air. Controlling

this air and directing it to the 3" ID intake tube that runs to your intake. The second

blower actually will DOUBLE the psi boost of the the first unit by mating them together

INLINE.

This high-pressure air is "tornado-ing" at a velocity of high RPM. By controlling the

direction of the air and shoving it through a tube...the vortexing air is basically getting

RAMMED down your intake tube. Heres where it starts to get a little messy...the 500+ cfm of

vortexing and compressed air THEN gets shoved through a reducer and to your intake inlet

( 4" to 3" reducer ) By "squeezing" and further compressing this amount of pressure through

an even SMALLER inlet...it's gonna spin faster and get even more compression and pressurized.

This ANGRY TORNADO of compressed and boosted air is going to hit your Manifold Absolute

Pressure sensor (or MAP sensor) and also come across your Mass Air Flow sensor as an "error"

because of the extreme increase of air-flow (sometimes setting off your CHECK ENGINE light

on your dash...can't be helped?) The sensors are going to send this INFORMATION to your

vehicles computer, and it should adjust for the error to fix it...by increasing your

fuel ratio and fuel-pressure to the intake, and adjusting the "spark" to detonate it all.

"TAHH-DAHH !" and there you have it...MORE AIR and MORE FUEL getting rammed into your motor,

and improved spark to blow it all up.

That's the basics...



But heres where I don't know what to do...yes the system has worked for me & the customers

that have brought their cars to my shop...but, these cars that got "this system" were all

in good-mechanical condition, and already had a couple high performance MODS on them.

(Like a cold air intake, or a header, or cam gears...just little bolt on stuff...

What happens if I sell one to someone that has little (or NO) technical knowledge AT ALL...

and their car is a piece of trash???? You know what I mean? What if the person that buys

one of these "systems" from me over ebay has a ...

(lets say for example):

a 150,000 miles worn out piece of junk...with the catalatic converter ALL plugged-up,

or the O2 sensors shot, or it's got NO compression left, egr going bad, or one

of the computers is "down" on the car...or the check engine light comes on now and again

because the computer is sporadically reading "FUEL DELIVERY ERROR" and the damn fuel pump is

only sending out about 1/2 of the pressure occasionally because it's about to "go out"...or

one of the valves is bad, or stuck, and is going to drop soon... or the MASS-AIR is

acting-up, crank-trigger computer/no fire??? ( and so on, and so on, and so on)

I'm the type of guy, that if I sell these things...I feel that they need to work for the

people that buy them...but I just know in my heart that a GOOD PORTION of the people that I

sell these to, are gonna put them on a car that NEEDED to be taken apart and had something

fixed a long time ago (or even ALOT of "things" fixed) ...YOU KNOW what I'm saying? I mean,

a lot of kids are gonna drop this system in a RAGGED-out & WELL used import, one that has

been "raced and tore-up" by the last three people that have owned it...

and then guess what???... I'm gonna get NEGATIVE feedback, BAD emails, and a bunch of crap

from more than half of my "BUYERS" about the fact that the "super-charger set-up" that I

sold them "IS A PIECE OF JUNK, AND DIDN'T WORK THE WAY IT WAS SUPPOSED TO ON THE CAR."

So now, I'm looking like just another one of ebay's CON ARTISTS / RIP-OFF GUYS that is

selling a "bad product".

I think that Sucks. I don't wanna be THAT guy. I've got a good reputation. My business is

well referred ( even though it's small and in the middle of NOWHERE Kansas ) I've had some

MY VEHICLES featured in seven different nationally publicated magazines at some point or

another. I don't want my EBAY customers, or any of my other customers' to think bad of me

or my business...it would really bother the hell out of me.



MY civic set-up (damn I NEVER even considered taking pics during that install) but this

wasn't ANYTHING I intended to sell to anyone until I ran it for awhile on that HONDA.

Everyone on the net wants to see pictures of the system on the civic... well, here's the

story...

Do you know the stock airbox placement on a newer civic? Well, UNDER the stock air-box there

is a 4" inch factory HOLE for that factory system to draw cooler air from the passenger side

fender-well. What I did was mount two of these blowers together INLINE... put screening on

the end of the first blower for a makeshift filter, bolted the whole set-up to the

bottom-side of that hole ( so that the blowers pull air in from the bottom of the wheelwell

and blow UP through the hole... mounted vertically) then, on the top-side of that hole, I

fabbed' a 4" to 3" reducer that I made out of aluminum in my chopper shop, and connected

that to the "system" THROUGH the hole, then ran 3" aluminum tubing to the Helix-style /

holley throttle spacer (power tower) Between the blower set-up and the power tower...I

drilled two holes for a NOS system to put the injectors/sprayers in the aluminum tubing.

Needless to say, as per the description, I don't intend to rip my fender and system BACK

off of my car to take a couple of pics. and then put it all back together again. I guess I

don't have, or want to take, the time to go rip my car up when it's NOT broken. I have

enough things to fix, work on, and do at my businesses without taking the time for that

un-necessary project. I'm sure you understand that. It's NOT worth my time...sorry if that

offends ANYBODY. I never even considered to take pictures of the civic while it was tore

apart, but unless the system BREAKS for some reason and I need to replace a blower motor

or something ( which I doubt will happen anytime soon, they have a three year factory

warranty on them) I DON'T have any intention on taking my car apart for a photo session.

I'd rather keep the shop bays OPEN, we're always booked for weeks anyway.



The blowers can run any way that you conceivably wire them...the very coolest way I think

is to find a pressure sensitive switch and rig it up to that, ( almost like a sewing machine

pedal, the harder you push the faster it runs...although nobody has done that yet to my

knowledge. ) I'll send you a diagram on how to install a simple "ON and OFF" toggel to it...

but if you know someone that is handy with wiring in the least bit, you can go to Radio

Shack and get a throttle switch. (same type of switch used to shoot NOS ) that's the way

mine is. I turn "ON" the system with a toggel on my dash, and the system is on "STAND-BY",

it's armed, powered and ready to go, but until I MASH MY FOOT-FEED to the floor...it just

stays ARMED and does nothing except tornado's the air...only when the foot-feed hits the

floor will the system "kick- ON" and blow 500 to 520 cfm. I think that this is the best way

to do it. And when the system is OFF completely, it STILL tornados the air coming into the

intake much like a $90.00 Holley / Helix Power Tower does...( look up that on ebay to

understand...Helix throttle-body spacer ) and that alone is worth 15 to 20 horse supposedly

( according to Holley / Helix ) By the way, if you don't run two of these...yes you'll get

some noticable power increases from off of the line to about 2700 RPM...but you'll be

somewhat disappointed if you're looking for ALOT of GAIN by running just one blower. Every

4 cyl car needs 85 to 90 cfm going to the motor to operate properly...unfortunately, the

factory system has to DRAG and PULL it out of the air through the intake...the thing that

will really make your motor performance oriented, is the fact that THIS SYSTEM pushes that

necessary air down the throat of your motor and RAMS it through the intake tube. 240 cfm

alone is only good for power gains up to 2700 RPM...when you double the blowers and stack

them "piggy-back" and INLINE, that create MORE THAN DOUBLE the rated cfm of each blower

according to the manufacturer, and doubles the psi boost of the second blower. (so it's

really somewhere between 500 to 520 cfm total) and at a required 90 cfm per 1000 RPM,

that means this system is a power performer to about 6000 rpm...and at 3500 to 7000 RPM is

where your motor picks up its true horsepower range anyway...it's called the "sweet zone"

cause on smaller displacement motors...they're pretty lame up to about 3500 RPM ( not much

power there...unless you REV it and dump the clutch...and then again, the whole reason a

person DOES that is to get the motor up to 3500 RPM or better. RIGHT?





WOW...little too much information...LOOK at this email, it's a damn book. Oh well,

someone to talk to...

I guess it really doesn't really matter if you like me or don't like me...and

whether you know me or don't know me...the point is: I'll send you some instructions, and

hope your car has a good motor in it and runs great, if so...it should work super! ...

I know that the system works cause I run one, and mine works fine...although my car is

"NOT STOCK", and I don't use it as an "every-day driver" a daily driver. ( Friday or

Saturday nights, just "raising a little hell"...doin'a little street-racing & fun-runnin'

...you know? ) but the system always performs (& WELL) every time I need it to.



If you buy this system, I will send you:



-- a detailed list of the basic 3 to 5 items you'll need to get at the hardware store...

($25 or less, depends on your car and where you want the blowers mounted...

( 4" to 3" reducer, a certain type of switch, couple of 12 ga. wires...etc.etc.etc.)



AND you'll get very simple, easy to read, and diagramed instructions on "HOW-TO."

Tell you this, if you DON'T already have an after-market air intake of some kind on your

vehicle...you'll wanna buy a CHEAP one for $18.00 on ebay, so you can use the 3" aluminum

tubing and filter designed to fit YOUR car to mount this blower to. It's ALOT easier &

cheaper than getting the aluminum and building one for your vehicle.





Heres more technical information: (asside from the MASSIVE amounts of info. that is in my

auction description) and some of the spec's of this model of HIGH-PRESSURE/high cfm

HIGH-VELOCITY 4" ID INLINE BLOWER:

-The housing is made out of an ULTRA hard ABS/resin mix, of course it's water-proof and heat

resistant up to 170 degrees...

-The impeller is made out of a high-heat ABS/PVC resin mix,

-The bearings are made for extreme-use, high heat, and are self-lubricating,

-The unit functions properly when mounted vertically or horizontally,

-It's designed to run off of a 12V vehicle electrical system,

-One unit will flow approx. 240 cubic foot per minute ( cfm ) of air

-It uses only 4.3 amps to run the blower at "full open" cfm blow,

-It has a 7 amp fuse,

-The inlet and outlet are both 4" ID ( inner diameter measurement ),

-The total dimensions overall are: 5 1/4" tall, X 4 3/16" wide, X 6" long,

-The blower unit weighs only 1.3 lbs.



This system comes with NO warranty, gaurantee & NO returns. This is THE REASON...

BECAUSE: WHO KNOWS...(& it never fails)...someone will surely put these blowers on their

vehicle facing backwards...and instead of BLOWING 240 to 500 cfm of air into their motor and

creating a really cool supercharger for their car...they'll end up SUCKING all of the air

and fuel out of their intake at an extremely high rate of speed like a DAMN HOOVER...

(it's gonna be halarious!)...

but then they'll "piss and wine" to ebay, Pay-Pal, and their attorney... and claim that I

sold them a REALLY bad system and it ruined their vehicle, so they need 6.2 million in

damages.......do you understand what I mean?

BUT, I'll personally test EVERY blower that I ship out to make sure that is works before

I ship it to you. Seriously.



thanks for the read:

Gotta-go, spent too much time here, but I hope I answered any of your questions or concerns.

(I've got three business' and eight kids...and a desk-full of paperwork and emails to deal

with.)

Eric Srack LATE.

[mitmaks]

Originally posted by Gkreator:

Originally posted by atlantamx3:
Alrighty GKreator-- go ahead and try it-- but hundreds of stupid people beofre you have tried it and discovered it is trash.

If I am not mistaken, I think Barry & Brian (Mnemonic) did their own research on these little pieces of crap and discovered that they actually hinder the airflow because the fan cannot spin fast enough to even compensate for the the intake pressure-- much less add to it.

So, Justify your reasons that it is good all that you want to-- but you are not the 1st to try it.

Stay away from it.. just some friendly advice from your Mx-3 Community.

Thanks Perry for the advice. I'm more curious just to try this out even if just for a laugh. I'll let you know how it goes. You are probably right but I'm pretty bored. If it does work then I'll see you all in my rear view.

so u BORED with your money huh, well lets see, i can use that money for good thing, why dont you just send it to my paypal account? personal check would be fine too, Ill be happy any extra $$.

[Gkreator]

so u BORED with your money huh, well lets see, i can use that money for good thing, why dont you just send it to my paypal account? personal check would be fine too, Ill be happy any extra $$.

Hmm....what parts will you send me then if I do? I could use a KLZE swap.

[RideLoudAndFast]

Heres another one, looks a lil better then the ones you see on e-bay but prob the same deal... http://electricsupercharger.entrabiz.com
if you click on -*see video demostration of the e-RAM in action* it shows a interesting demostration... but agin prob doesnt work...

[marshmallow15]

Originally posted by Gkreator:

Originally posted by atlantamx3:

Originally posted by Gkreator:
(Lets not forget that turbo fans can also be plastic)

WHAT??

I know you are not talking about Vehicle turbos... because the temps on those are several hundred degrees. Sorry, but plastic will melt at those temps.

LOL! I was wondering how long it would take before someone caught that.

HAH yea right. you're just covering up by saying that. we all know you thought there were plastic turbines for turbos.

[UnkleDuke]

EVEN IF this snake oil could move enough air at WOT (when they kick in), what happens when you shift, brake, etc?
How do you regulate on/off airflow? Sooner or later somethings going to burn, blow, or fall off.
There aren't any 'cheap' solutions to horsepower. The car has to be built and tuned well to produce results. You might be able to cut corners, but you can expect less results or unstable hp.
It would cost me $150-200 CAD to buy an 'electric super/turbocharger, yet I can buy a BP to replace my 1.6L for $300 CAD, and it provides all kinds of options for future hp gains aside from the immediate advantage of .2 extra liters of displacement and an all-around stronger engine.

[UnkleDuke]

Where is that post with the case fans? I think Barry posted it. That will answer everyone's questions.
BTW...For those asking about the 'e-ram', the other BS Ebay post is the sensor you put on your MAF to run more fuel. It just makes your car run rich and crappy.

[Nd4SpdSe]

Just wondering, if may not increase the air going to the pistons, but would the electric blower actually trick the VAF/ECU in thinking there is more air, making it pump out more fuel...the same idea as the resistor mod...thats my only theory on how this useless mod could maybe create power

<small>[ January 03, 2004, 02:22 AM: Message edited by: Nd4SpdSe ]</small>

[UnkleDuke]

Problem is the 12 volts drawn to run the fan would overshadow Any possible increase in power that it would hope to produce. As for fueling, if the fan 'tricked' the Maf/Vaf into raising the amount of fuel into the mix, you would still have a rich situation and end up back at square one.
It seems like the idea of a perpetual machine. In order to make gains, you have to scavenge energy from something. In the case of a turbo or super charger, it is efficient enough to make it worthwhile, i.e. the gains outweigh the drawbacks.

<small>[ January 05, 2004, 08:27 PM: Message edited by: UnkleDuke ]</small>