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If 2fazed only needs the harness, I could use the actual window switch.

Update: Can't see any leaks in master or slave cylinders, or clutch lines anywhere. Reservoir is still full. When the actuator on the slave cylinder is pushed in by hand, I lose all pressure in the clutch pedal, but can pump it back up(like Letters11 problem). I can easily move the clutch release ...

Crap, I'm having similar issues with a loose clutch and difficulty shifting, like the clutch isn't disengaging. Only seems to happen on hotter days though. The reservoir is full so I was hoping it was just air in the lines that needed to be bled out. I will check for leaks in the morning though. I ...

Yeah, good thing I replaced that. Feels so much better, especially off the line. Shifting is smoother too.

Pretty sure, its not a metallic clunking sound and I reached in and jiggled the cover around and it sounded similar.

I replaced my struts with some KYBs and got the recommended dust boot covers. Problem is, I think they are clunking around and making noise when going over bumps. I tried to zip-tie them in place but the boot is plastic and quite a bit bigger than the strut, so it wont secure. Any suggestions?

So possible to replace headers with engine in and intake manifold on? Or best to take the IM off?

Sorry for Necro-ing an old thread, but at least I searched! I replaced my front mount with the AWR probe mount but couldn't get the bolt out for the rear mount. Is it safe to drop the engine an inch or two to remove the bolt? Hoses should flex a bit... But is there anything I need to disconnect ...

Like the subject title says, there is a strange knocking sound when I turn. I only hear it when I am on the throttle while turning, if I let off and coast there is no knocking. Also, when accelerating straight there is no knocking. Its not as noticeable after the car has warmed up too. Can't tell ...

Just looking to get the black plastic housing piece with the three switches. I don't need the electrical board with the switches, just the part that screws into. PM if you've got one.

Interested in the power window switch housing. Just the black plastic part with the three switches, not the actual switch board. If possible.

I am pretty sure those rails are pins that will slide out. I replaced the rotors and pads a couple years ago.

Mine did the same thing until I replaced the accordian part of the intake tube.

Bolverk wrote:...jump F and B+ with a LED to pull codes.

Uh, right there.

Check the FAQs section, KL31/36 ECUs don't have a CEL.

Note that Jspec ECU's did not come with a CEL indicator so you will no longer have a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.

Jump 10 and gnd and then jump F and B+ with a LED to pull codes.