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I actually need the bracket that the mount bolts to the tranny more so than the mount itself. Please let me know if you have one, if so name the price. I'm located in FL, USA. Thanks,

Ray

Since they're made for a heavier car/ truck , you could get away with milling down all of the surfaces to save weight. If you can get them to close to the weight of the originals, I'll buy them. If you can also have them slotted for a reasonable price, I'd be into that, too. Drilling them concerns ...

good suggestions everyone.

as for the x-drilled/slotted, i can get the rotors in that form, i just didnt want to spend the money when i was developing the kit so i opted for the cheapest solid ones for R&D purposes.

It's actually more about swept area than anything. The stock front disk is 10.12" in diameter and the pad is 6.66sq-in in area (taken from the online manual)...so say about 2" x 3.33"...give or take. That rotor is ~13" in diameter with the same 2" high pad. Torque = F(force...

It's all about leverage. The closer to the outside diameter of the wheel that you can get the brakes to grab, the less leverage is working against them. Also, they will wear slower. I would be interested in the extra weight, too. Did you buy them with the 4x100 pattern, or drill them yourself? It's...

no, the entire system (lines, calipers, pads) are all stock, only the rotors are bigger. keep in mind this is just a relatively simple and cheap upgrade. the main focus is on increasing the diameter for added leverage and the bigger rotor for higher threshold for heat. sure i can start upgrading the...

that's one thing i forgot to do is to weigh them....they are def. heavier. do they make the car more sluggish? (i assume this is where the question was leading to), maybe slightly (?) it's definitely not significant enough for me to tell straight up that it is, but everytime u add unsprung weight to...

i'll summarize some initial driving impressions: 1) based on some "unofficial" 60-0 tests, compared to stock, the new setup yielded about 1/2 car length. 2) fade is gone. during those 60-0 tests, the stockers started slipping and chattering after 2nd/3rd run, but the new setup never did du...

just a bit of background, the 323 has the mx3 subframe, so all components are technically applicable to the mx-3 as well. i did all the R&D and prototyping myself. it's a direct bolt-on application, retains stock calipers and lines, and takes all but 1 hr to install, dont even have to bleed the ...

does anyone know if the MX-3 front and rear LCAs are interchangeable with the ones from a 90-94 323/protege? i ask b/c i have a 323 that has the subframe swapped from a MX-3. well i didn't know that when i ordered the rear sway bar, and now the new endlinks won't/can't bolt to the MX-3 LCA, b/c the ...

cant find a general stuff for sale forum, so i'll put it here....<p>i just got this and im deciding to get rid of it....<p>brand new in original box, i opened it to check it out, but all the parts are still in sealed bags. it is the 1/18th scale RS4 kit (NOT the RTR - ready to race) so u need to put...

transmission has nothing to do with the turbo....there are plenty of ATX talon tsi/eclipse turbo around. just be careful ur not being taken advantage of....

as for exhaust pipe size...most dsm guys run 3" turbo back....and it is probably recommended...however, i personally am running 2.5" pacesetter piping, and my dynos are not showing signs that its a restriction yet....but i will probably replace that with a full 3" in the future...<p>b...

as for exhaust pipe size...most dsm guys run 3" turbo back....and it is probably recommended...however, i personally am running 2.5" pacesetter piping, and my dynos are not showing signs that its a restriction yet....but i will probably replace that with a full 3" in the future...<p>b...

u dont shotpeen things with BBs do u?