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You would need to have a more efficient means of cooling the engine bay as well...even with the pheno spacers, my manifold is too hot to lay your hand on after a good drive. The whole engine bay is hot, most likely as a product of the ebay headers I am using, as there is no heat shield like with OE...

flat head and a hammer lol, to the best of my knowledge you can not access the screws for the hinge unless its open, you can try a locksmith they can open it for you or option 2 is to see if you can acess the screws for the bottom of the hinge undo those and voila glove box hangs free.

you can drive it to warm it up, just make sure that you let it sit at idle for a min or 2 run through all the gears, P to 2 and back then check it with the car running and it should sit where you said on the dipstick.

Sounds almost like the iac kicking in trying to bring the idle down on you, I am assuimg that you have no vac leaks on the car and that its not an automatic from what I have read on the forums from what you posted before.

well the only place I can think of short of the proper place is the coolant overflow bottle, but it will not give you any kind of an accurate reading from that, I would just leave it unplugged for now if I were you until you drill and tap the hole.

you will throw egr codes with the delete unless the ecu is chipped, you can swap the sensors and plug the 2 wire in but you will lose the dash gauge if you do so. egr codes will not really throw it into protect mode but it will knock you down a little bit to prevent damage to the engine, if you stil...

yeah thats the problem with the 2 wire ect sensor out the ecm goes into default and that throws off air/fuel mix, fans etc. I would definately put the 2 wire in by drilling/tapping the hole for it if I were you.

if that happens then you have the ignition power or keyed power making contact with the constant power wire somehow, or you wired the deck wrong, on the factory harness you should have the following so test them to make sure its hooked up right; 1) Contant power use a test light for this by the way ...

same thing the panels I mentioned before include the rocker panels and all, so just cut them out of the car just drill out the spot welds as well if the donor metal is not rusted use a spot weld cutter to take care of the spot welds, I just drill them out with a good quality 1/8" pilot but foll...

http://www.hushpower.com/ these guys make some decent mufflers that are not annoyingly loud, I put one a 3 different cars now and they got the performance without that annoying raspy loud exhaust noise just a pleasing deeper tone.

You can order new ones the big problem is that mazda mx-3's rear quarter is the entire piece from the middle of the door to the rear of the vehicle kinda like a vertical line cut in the middle of the door frame then joined together. The easiest bet is to go to a scrap yard find a good one and cut th...

If you want the factory dash gauge to read then you will need to drill and tap the neck for that sensor, the klze only used the 1 coolant sensor, but if you want an aftermarket then you can wire in the gauge to the 2 wire engine coolant temp sensor to get the same readout that the ecm uses, its just...

big black one.

to some extent I would agree with you on that but its kinda nice to have them seperate as it makes for a cheap replacement if the dash gauge is reading off. An aftermarket coolant temp gauge can be hooked into the ecm ect to get the readout if you really want one.

The dash gauge reads the resistance of the single wire sensor coolant temp sensor so if that is bad it will read higher than normal or lower than normal depending on how it has failed. Mine sits below the halfway mark unless its super hot in which case its at halfways. It can be totally independant ...