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I tried asking Elantra forum members, but none of them are as mechanically gifted as most of you guys on here. My Elantra is slowly dying quicker than I can repair it. It won't go in gear very easily, it knocks very loudly when I put it in gear, there is a very loud valve train problem, alternator bearings are going, inside of cat came out in peices, flex pipe broke, radiator (full aluminum) sits sidways. And a few more annoying things. I just replaced the idle air valve and thinking about replacing the tps. But what I'm asking is, the idle control valve, vibrates even after replacing it, when I turn the key into run. I've replaced it and it still vibrates? I don't understand...

So you're saying its a Hyundai?

Just kidding(mostly). Your shifting clunk sounds like a bad trans mount or linkage.

No idea on the IAC though, sorry.

I'll have to check the mounts. Didn't think of that, thanks Rob. A few times I've been under there (trying to figure out what is cutting a deep groove on the inner side of my rotor, I can find nothing but pad touching it) I noticed the passenger drive axle seems loose on the transmission side. I don't know if its the differential or the output shaft. And is there a good way to diagnose the shift linkage? I'm still learning transmission culture.

Rob had a good suggestion, check your trans mount first and see what's up with it. My son had the same complaint with his Mazda 3 and it was the mount.

I would get rid of that car ASAP. Korean cars are not known to be most reliable.

Hey hey hey we have a 06 Kia Sportage no say not dependable.

I get my cylinder head back from the shop next week. I'm starting to lose compression in number two. I changed the idle air control valve and the tps. It made minimal differences, but the little things add up. I have to change the head before I drive up to Rexburg Idaho at the 4 of January. Anyone have tips or warnings for me? I can change parts but I'm not much of a mechanist/machinist... but I'd love to learn all I can!

you may not be losing compression from the top end. cylinder head.
you may be losing compression from the bottom end. piston rings.

I did drive it accross the country... So those rings did take a beating. But what leads me to think it's a valve problem is because something was rattling from what sounded like the second exhaust port on the head and it would rattle louder than the exhaust leak (which is the temporary flex pipe replacement) at specific engine rpms. And then one day the rattle stopped and now it sounds like there is one chamber firing louder than the rest, consistently, and the car has trouble accelerating if its below 2000 rpms. I'm also slowly losing oil and the spark plug in cylinder two has what looks like burnt oil above the threads.