Crazycandians KLG4 swapped autocross beast

[crazycanadian]

Its been a long 2 months... I have done a lot of work on the car in that time... Buts its paying off at last..

Its a complete KLG4 swap.. Using a stock 99 626 ecm and engine bay wiring harness.. The rest of the car is wired up as a stock 94 mx3.. Transmission is freshly rebuilt with a KAAZ LSD and complete Escort gear set...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UCNjfHz6aM&feature=plcp

[Josh]

You sir are my hero!

Of course we will need more detailed description of all involved swapping to OBDII. was it more or less plug and play or did you do a bunch of re wiring?

I have really been thinking of going OBDII in mine for better tunability.

[crazycanadian]

If you start with a stock V6 mx3 with an unmolested wiring harness its not all that bad.. The wiring is no where near plug and play though.. How much you get into the wiring all depends on how much you want the swap to work like it would from the factory.. In my case I am trying to make it as factory as possible.. By the time I finish sorting out all the systems and bugs, I hope to only be throwing codes related to the auto transmission and possibly evap...

The biggest hurdles have been patching into the main relay to power everything up, making the stock tach work(still working on that. I have fried 2 tachs so far trying to build my own home brew tach adapter), also making to wire the fuel pump control in correctly and hope that the ecu works it correctly.. There are 2 seperate wires for fuel pump control.. 1 is used if the car you got the parts from had an immobilizer, and 1 is used with out an immobilizer... I have no clue if the parts car I got my ecu and wiring harness from had an immobilizer or not, but I used the other wire for fuel pump control and it worked out fine in my case...

I still have to wire in and set up my rear O2 sensors, wire in an obdII port and hope I can communicate properly with it.. Some cars you need the gateway module in order communicate and thats not always the PCM. Until I wire in the OBDII port I wont know if my scan tool can communicate or not with the PCM..

I'll post more info later on, or you can check out probetalk or clubprotege for my build threads on the car..

[Daninski]

Great work. You can correct me if I'm wrong but the rear O2 sensors are O2 sensor monitors and you don't need to use those. You won't get a code and your car will run in closed loop as required. At least that's how it worked for me.

[crazycanadian]

Great work. You can correct me if I'm wrong but the rear O2 sensors are O2 sensor monitors and you don't need to use those. You won't get a code and your car will run in closed loop as required. At least that's how it worked for me.

They are actually used for monitoring your catalytic converter, maintaining its efficiency, and also have an affect on closed loop fuel control .... Being that the ECU is from a 99 I am not sure what codes I'll have yet... If I do end up with codes it will be an O2 heater circuit and other O2 circuit codes codes right now...

It will still run in Closed loop... Having the rear O2's not hooked up and not working shouldn't affect performance... It can and will have a small affect on my fuel mileage later on when I do hook them up though...

[crazycanadian]

I guess some more info for everyone who isn't apart of the other forums...

My car is a 92 323... It had a KLDE swap in it before... Back in july I threw #6 rod bearing during an autocross event...

I decided to update the car so I picked up a used KLG4... The KLG4 I managed to figure out came from a 2001... The wiring harness I got was from a 99 626.. I got the complete engine harness (there are 3 harnesses to it. Alt/Battery cables/starter cables ect to the fuse box. Main harness from the PCM to most of the engine sensors. A small sub harness on the back of the motor to a couple other sensors, fuse box VIRS solenoids. The main engine harness and the small sub harness have to be from the same year car... What was left of the harness that came with my 2001 motor is different then the 99 harness I picked up to use... The most obvious difference is in the O2 sensor wiring and the 2 connectors between the main harness and the small sub harness... In 99 the rear O2 sensors are part of the main harness from the PCM.. In 2001 they moved the rear O2 wiring to the small sub harness at the back of the motor...

My car was a mix mash of wiring from the previous owner, so when I did the swap I went well beyond what I needed to... I wired my car from head lights to tail lights with a stock wiring harness from my gf's old 94 Mx3 gs.. This made a lot of work for me.... Things like blower motor/hvac wiring, ignition switch, turn signals, rear defrost, hazard switch ect were all totally different and had to be a mix match of 323 and mx3 stuff.. :S I should have just gotten a complete 323 harness, it would have saved me about 15 hours of farting around making it work properly..

Even though the KLG4 is OBD2 mazda didn't really change how they powered everything up, and how the PCM controls things.... Both the KLG4 and KLDE us a main relay for power to the fuel injectors/pcm/sensors/O2 sensors... The wiring runs in completely different patterns, so you have to figure out a good way to make them match up..

Cooling fan, VSS, Fuel pump, Coolant temp gauge, Tach, Oil pressure idiot light.. All the wiring for this gets done at the connectors on the fire wall behind the stock PCM.. If you under stand circuit design, its all very straight forwards...

Fuel pump control for the KLG4.. Make sure you use the right wire, there are 2.. One would have been used if the donor car had an immobilizer, the other is with out.. I have no clue what my donor car had, so I just wired it up as though it didn't have an immobilizer...

Main power for the fuel pump relay.. You'll need to wire this in.. The KLDE gets the power threw the stock engine bay harness.. the KLG4 doesn't have any wiring in the harness for this... There is a Blue wire in the stock wiring harness that would have been used on the KLDE to supply power to your ignition coil.. This no longer gets used, so I patched into it with a fuse to supply power to my fuel pump relay and my fuel pump...

Tach.. I am still sorting this out.. It should be possible to make a tach adapter that would connect to all 3 coil control wires for the KLG4 coil pack.. You would then feed this signal to your stock tach wire under the dash... The electrical parts to do this need to handle up to 400 Volt spikes.. I think the resisters I used were to small, when I made up an adapter my tach worked for about 10 sec then stopped.. I am pretty sure I was sending to high of a voltage spike to the tach and fried it... I have found this Tach adapter online, but have no tried it...
http://www.autosportlabs.net/TachAdapter
I do believe though I have found the proper Engine speed output signal from the stock KLG4 pcm... Wiring diagrams don't list it, I only lucked out and found it on a PCM connector pin out diagram berried in Alldata.. I do believe I'll be able to build a transistor type tach adapter much like you would us if you had megasquirt to drive the tach...

When I figure it out, I will update...

VSS needs to be spliced into both the PCM wiring, and gauge cluster wiring..

Alternator wiring I just used the stock KLDE harness and modified it where I needed to...

Main relay.. You will need to run your own ground wire for it.. The ground wire is routed threw the stock KLDE engine harness... There is also a purple wire that goes to a 10 amp ST fuse in the KLDE fuse box.. This also gets wired in.. the KLG4 uses the same fuse, so just find the right wires and splice them together... Its power supply to the computer during cranking conditions..

On my car, I have changed the cooling system around... I upgraded the rad to one from a 3.1L V6 cavalier and over flow tank... I am now running a complete closed cooling system... I am not sure yet how it'll work out having the surge tank tapped into the upper rad line, but so far its been fine.. Usually the surge tanks are mounted in the lower rad hoses..

My transmission is a stock mx3 case with complete escort gear set up... This gives me a more even spread 3rd and 4th... The really nice 0.717 5th gear... I have also changed from 4.38 final drive to the escort 3.85 final drive... If my calculations are correct cruising at 70mph I should be around 2500 - 2700 rpm in 5th gear... The diff I picked up is a KAAZ clutch type LSD... Since this car is built for autocross racing I opted to stay away from Quafie and Mfactory gear style diffs due to their tendency to act like an open diff if you really unweight an inside tire during cornering....

Lots of fun pictures to post...

[crazycanadian]

I guess I will start with some transmission stuff... The Escort stuff is from a 97+ 2.0L SOHC escort..

Escort, Stock Mx3, B6T input shafts all lined up.. Some small differences, but they will all interchange


Escort, Stock Mx3, B6T counter shafts.This is where the difference is.. The B6T has a smaller ring gear.. The shaft is a little shorter and wont interchange as a whole.. The other gears on the shaft are the same though... The B6T and Escort share pretty much the same gear ratio's...


All 3 diffs lined up, plus my KAAZ diff.. The nice thing about the KAAZ diff is they supplied the bolts to mount the ring gear.. The rig gear bolts to the diff, and the old grinding you need to do is just to make sure the ring gear bolts don't stick out..


Escort 5th gear set up.. Its different but does interchange with the mx3/b6t stuff... All you use from this are the 2 gears closest to the case half... So for anyone looking for a 5th gear upgrade this could be another option...


Measuring end clearance to get an idea what size shims I would need..


When building a transmission its always nice to have a stack of shims to choose from.. I have aquired this from tearing down several transmissions now and parting some of them out...


Your best friend when it comes to getting old bearing races out...

[crazycanadian]

Intake manafold comparisons..

KLG4 and KLDE.. The largest difference is in upper plennum volume, and throttle body throat.. the KLG4 is shaped like a straight neck Z3, where as the DE has a curve to it..




Throttle bodies are completely different... They can not be interchanged or miss matched between intakes...The KLDE uses a 4 wire tps, with idle switch in it... It also uses a 2 stage idle control system.. 1 stage is coolant controlled for cold start up/high idle.. The other is strictly for idle up purposes... The PCM will command higher idle depending on engine load conditions.. You set base idle with your idle stop screw, and then set your TPS up for the idle switch afterwards..
The KLG4 uses a 3 wire TPS sensor that is non adjustable.. Also is uses a duty cycle control idle control valve.. The PCM uses the idle control valve to control idle for the most part.. Some minor idle controls can be done with the idle stop screw, but only should be used as a last resort after you have confirmed no vacuum leaks, engine problems ect...
KLDE throttle body...


KLG4


KLG4 throttle body gasket on the KLDE intake...


Yep the intake sits pretty damn close just like a straight neck KLZE.. All though the KLG4 looks like its a little shorter giving you just enough room..


clearance with the custom intake I built... The picture doesn't do it justice.. There is more then it looks like..


My PCM placement... This may or may not interfere with your center console.. For me I have to cut out cubby hole/drink holder pocket out of mine... The two want to share the same space...


Custom Brackets made up to gain more clearance between my rad and head lights...


Not a lot of room as you can tell..

[crazycanadian]

Custom rad brackets..




Rad and power steering cooler mounted..


Engine bay picture...

[Josh]

Well done! really nice work.

Have you compared 96 mx3 GS wire harness or 96+ prob GT harness to splice into?

Also wasn't the B6T an F series box? or did they use a G series on that motor? I am interested in your gearing setup as I am getting ready to install a new trans into my GS. I will look you up on PT and check you WL.

But great work thus far.

[crazycanadian]

The origonal owner of my car built it with a 96 mx3 body harness.. It was all hacked up, but over all the locations of your relays and general wire routing doesn't change between the OBD1 and OBD2 mx3 harness's.. It wont make installing the KLG4 wiring any more plug and play...To make the OBD2 port work shouldn't be a lot of problem... 4 wires need to be spliced in.. Power/Ground and 2 communication lines... So long as the factory uses the PCM as a gateway module I'll have no problems communication to the PCM...

For anyone that understands automotive networking, you'll know what I am talking about when it comes to a gateway module..

As for the transmission what more info are you interested in??

[crazycanadian]

Well the test drive didn't go so well tonight... As soon as I tried turning the wheel it sounded like my axles were going to come apart... As best as I can tell right now it looks like either the clutches in the KAAZ diff are set up to tight, or they need some better limited slip additive..

[Josh]

Well hopefully it will be an easy fix.

With the trans, mostly was just wondering about the B6T parts. did the B6T use a G series, I thought it had an F box. I need to get myself a good manual with the scort gearing. I have a 626 5th gear to put into my GS trans but that will only give me about 600 rpm decrease, it there is more to be had at freeway speeds then I am interested and would like to know more about what I need to do. Because right now at like 70-75 mph I am at like 4K+ rpm. no good on the mileage.

[crazycanadian]

Well hopefully it will be an easy fix.

With the trans, mostly was just wondering about the B6T parts. did the B6T use a G series, I thought it had an F box. I need to get myself a good manual with the scort gearing. I have a 626 5th gear to put into my GS trans but that will only give me about 600 rpm decrease, it there is more to be had at freeway speeds then I am interested and would like to know more about what I need to do. Because right now at like 70-75 mph I am at like 4K+ rpm. no good on the mileage.

The B6 was an F series box... The B6T was a g-series.... The counter shaft and Diff from the B6T can't be used though... They wont interchange... 1st,2nd,3rd,4th,5th can all be interchanged though.. The B6T and escort has a little more evenly spaced 3rd and 4th rather then the closer ratio 3rd and 4th that the mx3 transmission has...

The mx3/probe GT transmissions are both the same with a 4.38 final drive... the Mx6 is supposed to have a 4:10 final drive, but I don't know how to tell the difference with out pulling it apart and counting teeth...

I also don't have a Kia or a BP box to compare with but I am going to guess that one of them will be interchange able as well... If I had to guess I would think that Kia would because its got the thicker ring gear...


With the gear ratio change though I do have a feeling my speedo is going to be inaccurate now... I'll have to GPS it and see when I do finally get the car on the road here.. The escort/B6T and Mx3 transmissions all had the same tooth counts for the speedo gears...

[crazycanadian]

I also got a hold of Jim from JPmotorsports who I bought the diff from, as well as KAAZ USA... Both have been really helpful.. From Jim's experience with the units he has installed, whats going on is normal.. Apparently after the break in process it quiets down a bit...

Ray at KAAZ USA talked things over lots with me and I got some good info from him.. KAAZ sets up the diff clutches very tight for road racing application.. They actually recommend before installing the diff, you take it apart and restack the plates to loosen them up... Apparently when they manufacture the diffs, they set the clutches up at 100% lock... This makes for a lot of noise and clutch chatter and stuff which is normal, especialy during the break in process... Ray felt that for my application 100% lock is going to be to tight.. He's suggested on pulling the diff apart and resatcking the plates down to 60% lock.... If I needed to quiet the clutches down a little more he suggested using Ford friction modifier for posi diffs... Also mentioned to stay away from synthetic gear oils and only run a mineral oil based gear oil..

For now I am going to dump a couple of bottles of Ford friction modifier in the car, and head off to quiet parking lot to do figure 8's for a while and break the diff in... If its still bothering me I will rip the transmission out... I have a spare stock one sitting in the garage I'll throw in so that I can drive the car... Then I'll go about playing with the diff and resetting it up...