MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

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Frost881
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Joined: January 23rd, 2012, 9:43 pm
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Location: Canton Michigan

MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Frost881 »

Hey guys! I'm a newbie round these parts but not new to Mazdas

Just wanted to introduce myself and my project

Here’s the scoop; I found it on craigslist in Highland Michigan. It was listed as a prepared car for competition in SCCA Club Racing in "Improved Touring C" ("C" as in "I can’t possibly C how a racecar could be this slow...more on that later). The previous owner went through all the work to get it classified in ITC but the SCCA dropped the ball so when he went to race it in 2010 he still had to run it in the STU class because the ITC classification had not yet been finalized. The car has seen action at two official races, most recently at the 12 hours of nelson ledges where it lasted 3 hours before smoking what was likely the original clutch. He had not run it at any point during the 2011 season and was looking to get out of it to get a little cash and have a little more time to focus on other projects. I first saw the car on December 17th at the pole barn which he was storing this car as well as several other MX-3’s and several Miata’s. I looked it over, started it, drove it, and fell in love right there. I put $100 down on the car and the next day my buddy and I showed up at the barn with his truck and a flatbed from u-haul and drove it back home to Canton.

Info on the car itself; It’s a 1992 Mazda MX-3. If you’ve never heard of one, it’s for a good reason; they were only on sale in the U.S. from 1992-1995 and they didn’t exactly sell in great numbers. For size comparison, think of something slightly larger and taller than a Miata but with a hatchback instead of a convertible top. It has the 4 cylinder 1.6 liter SOHC B6ME engine (rated at 88HP and 98 Ft lbs of torque) with a 5 speed manual Trans. The suspension is a pretty simple Macpherson strut setup in the front and at the rear is a “twin trapezoidal” link independent setup, which is essentially a trailing arm type suspension. The curb weight of one of these with this engine is around 2400lbs, so with all the normal creature comforts removed is shouldn’t weigh much more than a cheerleader over 2000 lbs. The car has 195xxx miles on it at present time. From what I can surmise from the cars history, I appear to be the 3rd or 4th owner, all of which were from Michigan. The car has a clean Michigan Title which I now have in my name (the guy I bought it from never bothered to get the title in his name since he never used the car on the street). The previous owner bought it in non-running condition for $400 about 2 years ago. After he took ownership he got it running (new head), gutted it, put the cage in, put the fire extinguisher in, put in the racing seat, installed a window net, installed a G-Force racing harness, installed a battery kill switch, replaced the brakes on all 4 corners, installed a new half shaft, installed an ACT clutch (after the OEM one got burnt up @ Nelson Ledges), bolted on some Miata wheels, and did the legwork to get it registered for competition in ITC. I purchased the car for a price of $1300; in addition to the car itself, I also got the SCCA logbook, the original owners manual plus a good chunk a paperwork outlining some of the cars maintenance history, leftovers from the ACT clutch kit (new pilot bearing, alignment tool, etc.), an OEM Mazda car cover and for an extra $50 I got the original set of MX-3 wheels (its currently rolling on a set of Miata “Daises”).

The engine is essentially stock (though the head on it isn’t original) and the suspension is just how it left the factory. I’ve been able to do a little bit of work on it up to this point, but nothing too major; just enough to get a list together for what needs immediate attention, what can wait, etc. I’ve got a list of parts I’m looking for as well as a preliminary list of what I need to give attention. Additionally, because it has a title and still has working lights, turn signals, etc., and still drives like any road car should, as of December 20th I not only have the title in my name but it is insured and plated to drive on the street! It’s a little drafty since there are no windows but hey the heater still works!


That’s where the car stands right now, here’s what I’ve compiled so far concerning what needs attention:

Car does have rust, not much in the way of rot though. It’s not like the car is going to fall apart in front of me, but there are some areas that need attention before they become un-salvageable.

Front bumper is on and holding but it’s cracked in a couple spots so if I can pick one up cheap I’ll pounce on it.

Due to a rules change, the seat needs to either be take off the tracks and welded in place, or stay on the tracks and have a brace fitted, not sure which route I’m going to take yet.

The car has a MASSIVE exhaust leak, easy enough to get taken care of but still needs to be fixed.

Car does presently appear to have a misfire, though that could be for a number of reasons as; its old, the bulk of the gas in it is from August of 2010 (put about 5 gal of new gas in there to try and freshen it up), and the plugs are well worn ACdelco units….Eww

The car has no thermostat, which is why it takes so damn long to heat up. I know it’s not necessary for racing but since I don’t like having a cold engine for extended periods and since I’m driving it on the street I’m putting one in. (I really hope the lack of a thermostat wasn’t there to mask head gasket issues….we shall see)

I’d like to swap all the new fluids out of it so that I know they’re all fresh

Car is going to need an oil pan very soon as the one on there is not in great shape.

Radiator hoses are in need of replacement

Wipers are blasted and I’m going to re-paint the wiper arms

Passenger front sway-bar end-link is toast

Belts are dried out and squeal like a pig going to the slaughterhouse when they’re cold (i.e., engine cold starting)

There’s a big leak on the drivers side of the engine, potentially a rear main seal. I can’t quite pin it down yet because there’s so much grime down there, so I’m going to clean up that side and keep a lookout.

I’d like to source a stock air box and fresh air duct for the car as the current intake system is pretty ghettofabbed in there and the cone filter is dirtier than a gas station bathroom

Want to test the battery to see how much life it’s got left

Some of the brake lines/fuel lines may need replacement soon

Want to get a catch can for it

Needs tires

The clock doesn’t keep time when the ignition is turned off, methinks it might be something to do with how the kill switch functions....its not a huge deal but I have a clack in it so I’d like to work.

Exhaust manifold itself is fine but the heat shield is toast, $60 for a new one from Mazda, thinking I’ll just leave it off.

In addition to the plugs, I’m probably going to replace the cap, rotor, and plug wires as well

That’s about what I’ve got so far, I picked up some oil, thermostat, NGK V power plugs, both V-belts (Gates of course), and a Chilton for the car. I’ll likely be buying even more goodies for it today.

That’s where the cars at in a nutshell….I will continue to update this thread as the build progresses


My rules for this car are simple; anyone that helps me work on it can drive it. Doesn’t matter if ya hold a Trans, hold a wrench, or hold a flashlight, throw me some cash for gas/tires, go on a parts run for me, etc. If you help me with it, you earn yourself some seat time. I’m going to have very little patience for people who simply stand around and point out what is wrong or not working and do nothing but get in the way of making this project a success. If you don’t want to be helpful, I don’t want you around this car; it’s a simple as that.

My intentions for this car are not only to further my own racing career but to use it as a tool to bring friends together and as a catalyst for fun times. Through this car I intend to give not only myself, but others the opportunity to race that might have never had to opportunity to do so. I’ll use this car not only for club racing, but for open track style events and probably some auto X as well. This car will also give people the opportunity to wrench on something other than their daily rides and will serve as a teaching tool not only on the racecourse, but in the garage as well. As I’m only 20, this is the first car I’ve ever bought with my own money (the 6 was gifted to me) and when it finally dawned on me that I had actually bought this thing, my first thought was “it figures the first car I buy in my own name has a roll cage and a gutted interior…. Also, after hearing/seeing the reactions of some of my friends and family when they learned I had purchased this project, I concluded that it was funny how much commotion a $1300 car could cause….

As stated, this car is a tool that is intended to create fun times and bring people together, and given time, some money, and the right attitudes, I honestly feel that this little car will do exactly that for those that
choose to be a part of its revival.

Happy motoring crew and I will keep you guys updated as this project progresses!

-Matt

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My twins....


Update time!

Okay, so since the tires that the car is presently sitting on are useful insomuch as they hold air and the tires on the 2nd set of wheels that i have are barley suitable for astroturds, this car is badly in need of a new set of rubber.

After an exhaustive search i decided that the street tires for this beast were going to be the Sumitomo HTR A/S PO1's. they are a high performance all season tire, treadwear 480, traction A, temp A. more info here http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... mpare1=yes the stock size for the mx-3 is 185-65-14, i went with a 195-60/14. I got the entire set mounted and balanced from Belle tire for $342 and some pocket lint (dinky tires FTMFW!)

......or at least i would have if while cleaning up the 2nd set of rims which i intended to put the street tires on i had not discovered that two of the wheels had a very nice bend in them (i got the whole set of wheels for $50, so ya get what ya pay for in some cases). After discovering this, i still took the wheels over to have the tires de-mounted because in order to have the rim repaired i would need to have the tire off anyway. My instructions were to de-mount the tires from the rims and call me when they were donw so that i could pick up the wheels and tires and take the wheels to get fixed.

When i got back to pick them up, they rolled my rims out with 4 freshly mounted sumitomos on them.....good to know people listen >< It wasent a big deal though, they rolled the wheels back in, de-mounted my tires and in about 15 min i was on my merry way with my 4 OEM MX-3 wheels, 4 crispy sumitomos, and 3 of my OEM 17" mazda 6 wheels that also needed work (Michigan has a way of jacking wheels up, even if your carful).

---------- Post added at 11:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:57 AM ----------

Part 2!

After the tire debacle, i made my way over to Weldcraft wheels. Weldcraft was the place where we sent out any wheels that came in bent when i was the delivery dude for the infamous Ralph Thayer Mazda. Weldcraft specializes not only in fixing bent up wheels, but in modifyng them as well, read more heah http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/index.html

2 of the 4 OEM MX-3 wheels came up bad, and they took all 3 of the OEM Mazda 6 wheels i brought to em. That was last Friday so they should be all done by today or tomorrow.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch i did the ole bathroom scale trick (step on scale, get weight, step on scale again holding wheel) to get an idea of what the OEM MX-3 wheels weigh in at and they come in around 13.5 lbs. So they are heavier than the miata wheels that i currently have sitting on the car and therefore i'll still use the MX-3 wheels for my street tires. I still havent decided if i'm going to use the Dunlop Direzzas for race duty or if i'm going to spring to buy R comps. If i do buy R-comps theyre probably going to be the Hancooks becasue i can't quite justify the price for Hoosiers, and the Khumo V710's are pricey as well in my opinion. It would be about a $100-$150 difference between the dunlops and the hancooks and i'm still in the wafflehouse on what route i'm goin.

---------- Post added at 11:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:12 AM ----------

Some photo travel for you guys and gals:

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Here she sat for a bit up on the stands while i dug around to see what the dealio was with the front suspension and the underbody

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The inside of one of the MX-3 wheels....these things were filfthy! looked like they had never been cleaned in their lives.

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My cleaning army! Don;t get me wrong, it helped, but the wheels sre still kinda nasty, i need either some more aggressive chemicals or need to do some wet sanding

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For the record, you can fit 3 17x7 mazda 6 wheels, 4 14x5.5 mx-3 wheels, and 4 195/60/14 sumitomos in the back of a mazd 6 hatchback, and still have room to spare. not bad for a car that sees double duty as a racemobile

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This is the wheel that cleaned up the best but it has the worst bend

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For the faint of sight...

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The tire stack with the 2 good mx-3 wheels, this brings my running total up to 5 sets of rims and tires for 2 cars....yes, i know, i have a problem

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yay! new rubbers!!! I checked the build date on these bad boys and they were made the 31st and 29th weeks of 2011, so theyre not even 6 months old, so my new tires actually are new tires
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Frost881
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Location: Canton Michigan

Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Frost881 »

Another update!

After about a couple days wait, my order from MAZDASPEED has arrived! Actually it arrived in its entiriety on the 3rd but lets not get hung up on the details okay? =p At any rate, now that i finally have some parts here i can really start diggin into this b----!

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Hmmmm, i wonder what could possibly be in here....

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Oh goodie! Mazda Parts! My favorite!

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The contents of the larger box were my midpipe, this will be very useful as most of my exhaust hasmore holes than a brothel

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A better view of the new hotness, notice the lack of crush bends and how it already has the mounting points welded onto it, OEM exhaust parts FTW!

Heres a rundown of what came in my magical box-o-Mazda goodies:

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1 New oil pan + gaskets, ala mode, hold the onions

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A gang a ooil filters, some for the MX-3, some for the 6 (fun fact, the mx-3 uses the same filter as the 1st and 2nd gen Miata)

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Plugs and wires; the plugs actually came from O'murrays, but NGK's were what was standard in this car from the factory. They should help, the current plugs were a set a well worn Acdelco's. Also, the plug wires are currently zip tied to the distributor and coil....not cool...but the new plug wires should remedy that issue.

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In conjunction with the new plug and wire hotness, this car will also be getting a new cap and rotor (another fun fact, this OEM unit was actually made by Mitsubishi)

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One of the issues with this car is it dosent seem to want to hold its fluids very well...the valve cover gasket is one such guilty party. The oil cap dosent seem to want to do its job either so i purchased a new one of those as well. When the car gets its firts oil change, i'll be pourin in the max life, hopefully the seal sweller in there will at least slow down the leakage.

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The other part of the fluid issue is that the rad hoses look janky as a back alley concert ticket purchase. New hoses should do the trick. Also, behold the almighty thermostat! Which is somthing this car is currently lacking...hopefully a new one a those with a nice coolant flush will get the heat workin nice and toasty during narmal driving conditions because at any sort of speed the water temp prestly drops to nothing.

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A brake flush is also on the to do list for this car. I'll probably eventually put some nicer stuff in there, but for now the O'murray fluod will suffice. It cant be any worse than the crud thats in there now...Also in the forground is one rear brake line, another line it turns out i do not need which i'll be sending back, and new wheel cylinders cuz the ones that are currently on the rear drums look like they spent their entire lives sitting in lake erie.

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A pair a front swaybar endlinks...one of the fornts is blown and the other one isnt OEm so i;d like to have 2 matching OEM ones on there.

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Here we see some odds and ends: even more fluids, some wipers, de-greaser, the power steering belt with new tensioner bolt, fuel system cleaner, fuel filter, silicone, and a couple other odd parts. Nothing too excitin but all neccessary parts

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Heres what roughly $600 in MX-3 parts looks like

Couple a war stories for the MX-3:

On new years eve, myself and a couple a my friends decided we were gonna ring in the new year by makin a huge racket when theclock struck 12. My buddy Adam (aka "williams") was gonna rev the piss outta his truck (69' F100 with a warmed up 302 capable of 7k RPM), my buddy Mark was gonna blow the Semi truck air horns that he installed on his F150, i was gonna rev the piss outta our 08 Bullitt stang sitting in the garage, my buddy Matt was gonna play some really offensive music from his Subwoofer equipped probe, and my buddy nick was gonna rev whatever was the next loudest thing at our disposal...probably the MX-3.

Well, that was our plan, but when williams brought his truck over at about 11:45 and reved with for us a couple times my neighbor came out and said that was enough for one night.....ya whatever loser...who the f--- is complaining about noise at 11:45 on new years eve?! In hindsight i'm glad we dident go through wiht our initial plan cuz we would have DEFINETLY gotten a noise complaint for that....Aaaaaaaannnnnnyyywaaaaaaaay...

So after that plan got foiled we decided to ring in the new year in our own way by going for a lil drive; myself in the MX-3, williams and Matt in the F100, and Mark and Nick in Nicks 2010 ranger sport. First we went out the the golf course parking lot in my subdivision for a lil burnout practice. For the record, the dried out Toyo RA1's the MX-3 is currently rolling on do one wheel peels pretty respectable. After raisin some hell there we decided to bail before the cops showed up so so we went over to a gas station so nick could fuel up, after which we decided to go on a lil midnight excursion down some of dirt (more like mud actually) roads. Nick led the way, followed by williams, then i was tail gunnin. Let me tell ya, dirt roads at the speeds we were travelin on the tires i was on are more than a bit sketchy.

After a good hour or so a poundin the mud we pulled back onto the main-ish roads where we came to a spot thats good for some WOT pulls. I let williams have a go in the MX-3 and when he got back he was all smiles, he pretty much wanted to go racin that night. Actually, the car suprised me a bit cuz on one of the pulls williams was in front a me in his truck and though i wasent really gainin on him, he wasent able to pull on me. Granted his truck had about 300'bs a wood in the back and its not geared well for the trans thats in there but still that lil thing will scoot if ya give it the beans.

After some fun there we went back to the dirt for awhile before wiilliams needed to fill his girl back up (let me tell ya, findin an open gas station in semi-rural Michigan on New Years Eve is a pain in the a--!) After this event, we decided it was a good idea to drive out to Hell Michigan and take an excursion down one of our favorite twisty roads. Keep in mind Hell is about 30 miles from where i live and i was in a car with no passenger or driver side windows, an exhaust that sounds like i'm being chased by a pack a angry bumble bees, manual steering (the power steering belt wasent on cuz the tensioner was brokenand heat that is lukewarm at best. That said, it was still worth the drive, theres only so much i can do on the current tires but the car stilll dives in well and is really quite tossable.

We made it back home sometime round 4AM, definetly a fun drive but even though it was pretty warm for janualy in the mitten i was still pretty damn chilley on the way back into town. The car held up pretty well; some of the gear engangments were gettin a bit wonkey (more on that later) and it looked like it was a WRC car after a 5 day run but it not only survived the trip, but did so without a single hiccup. Not bad for a $1300 machine.

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The morning after...she's a dirty girl

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The dirt does give it some charecter, i was thinking of leavin it on for a bit

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My friends are so mature...

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ICU2!

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Okay i'll admit it, i actually wrote that one

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Time for a bath!

The second war story comes a day later, when a taught my buddy to drive stick in this thing. Let me put some stuff into perspective: at the time the car still had no power steering, the shifter was not engaging gears properly (again, more on that later), its loud as hell, the clutch is pretty grabby, it idles high since the water temp never really gets up to where its supposed to, and the is only 1 seat in it...which is a racing seat with limited adjustability and really not that condisive to my buddies size (6ft 3", 225is lbs)...not the most ideal car to teach a rookie in but none the less, we pushed on!

First i took em though the basics with him sitting in the passenger seat because i dont think he had ever even seen somone operate a manual transmission, so to give him the lay of the land, i showed him the basic operating procedure, some do's and donts, and tried to give him a jist of what he was about to undertake.

After a couple laps a that, we swapped seats (well, more like traded a seat for a floorpan) and it was his turn to make her move. His first attempts at movement actually went pretty well, but after that he kept making the classic rookie mistake of too much gas and too fast on clutch engagement. Luckily, i was wearing my crash helmet. However, after some preactice he got the hang of it pretty swiftly. It wasent the smoothest ride around a parking lot i've ever been on but hey, he was the very definition of a manual transmission noob and it wasent the easiest car to pick it up in. I got him to start from a dead stop, shift through some gears, brake without stalling (yes i know, simple in concept but in practice difficult for somone thats driven nothing but automatics) and did a lap around the entire parking lot without stalling, hitting anything, or making me knock my head against the rollbar.

Now remember those couple a blurbs about how the shifter dident really want to engage that well? yaaa well the next day when me and my friend mark took the shifter apart to investigate that matter we discovered that the bushing that holds the shifter in place really dident want to do its job anymore and had let the shifterfall out of the retaining place and the only thing keeping the shifter assembly from falling out onto the ground was the fact that it was resting on top of the catalytic converter....oops. Funny as that is, thats another item which will be addressed in the near future as thats not somting i want to worry about as i'm blasing down the back straight at Waterford Hills Raceway

More to come!

-Matt
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Frost881
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Frost881 »

Update time once again!

My friend Mark and I were hard at work over break and now that i have some parts on hand it was time to tear into it!

As a result, the MX-3 is currently in a state of dissassembly, here's whats been done as of 1/10/11 and whats left to go before the car is on 4 wheels again:

Tuneup is done (plugs, cap, rotor, & wires)
Has a new fuel filter
New rear brake line (still need 1 more, semi long story)
New rear wheel cylinders are in
Brake fluids been flushed
Engine is slightly less greasy than it was (not hard to improve on garbage)
New valve cover gasket is on
Power steering belt is on as is the new tensioner bolt to hold said tension
And the new oil pan is on

The trans fluid is drained, all i need to do is replace it, which is easier said than done since the level check bolt hole through which the trans is re-filled is on a slight angle and dosent like to fill up very quickly so i'm gonna need a cheapie hand pump to make it more feasable, no biggie

The coolant still needs to be flushed and the thermostat still needs to go in

Front swaybar endlinks are stubbornly rusted on so there will be torching required to remove those along with soem new hardware

The exhaust is almost completly off the car, i'm in the proccess of piecing the rest of it together.

The shift linkage is out of the car as well, not sure if i'm going to replace the entire assembly or just what parts i think are on their way out.

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Heres the most recent interior shot of the car, see anything missing?

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Ye olde exhaust, the mid pipe wasent actually an OEM unit, so i'm not exactly sad to see it go, the fact that it had rust holes the size of various united states coins

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The old muffler...you may have noticed that the bottom half is missing...

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...because it was cut off...For the life of me i cannot fathom why but sombody cut off the bottom half of the muffler canister. Headscratcheeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!

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Heres the engine bay as she sits today, notice the cleaner valve cover and them racy blue plug wires! those gotta be worth at leas 5 WHP right?

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The trans after some de-greasing, scrubbing, and watering...not spotless but its an improvement

For the record, this is what it looked like before:

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The underside of the beast, she's a lil dusty...i'm working on it okay

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Still a little greasy, luckily i have another can of the stuff to work with

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heres what the oil pan left behind, cant see much from the pics but the bottom end looks pretty good for 200k from what i can tell

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The old oil pan, about as visually attractive as a genital wart

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The culprit of the wonky shifting, still not sure what course of action i'm going to take to remedy this yet

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This box WAS full when we started, its slowly getting empty

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Here she sits today...definetly looks more like a project than a car but its slowly coming along
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Frost881
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Location: Canton Michigan

Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Frost881 »

For the record guys, i'm always in search of parts for this beast

presently i'm really hot to trot to find a stock airbox and fresh air inlet tube assembly for this thing because i really don't like the ghettofabbed intake setup thats on there right now.

Until i have 30 posts i can't really poke into the FS section (for the record, I think thats a great idea) so by all means let me know what you've got!

-Matt
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Evo_Spec
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Evo_Spec »

i LOVE all the OEM goodies, great way to start any build.
What site exactly did you go to for all those parts?
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Ryan
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Ryan »

Wow, I love to see this effort put into the car.

My only question is.... why did you pick the lamest motor option for a racecar?

I don't know the rules you're bound by, but you can drop in a B8 engine, a 1.8L SOHC motor that is visually identical to the B6 you currently have. Difference is the 0.2L and about 20 hp. (103 says wiki)

The GS rear disc swap is as simple as bolting over the V6 subframe. Huge upgrade.
Now with Moderator power!

Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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Evo_Spec
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Evo_Spec »

depending on the rules maybe you can drop in a BP or an FE3 =D
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Frost881
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Frost881 »

Ryan wrote:Wow, I love to see this effort put into the car.

My only question is.... why did you pick the lamest motor option for a racecar?

I don't know the rules you're bound by, but you can drop in a B8 engine, a 1.8L SOHC motor that is visually identical to the B6 you currently have. Difference is the 0.2L and about 20 hp. (103 says wiki)

The GS rear disc swap is as simple as bolting over the V6 subframe. Huge upgrade.
The reason i picked the motor for a racecar is simple: it picked me more than i picked it.

I started autoX'ing my 6 about 2 years ago and the race bug bit me hard. I fell in love with grassroots level motorsports and i wanted to continue to further my involvment within them.

Last season I did a couple of open track events in my 6 at the venue at which this vehicle will be principally raced at and the go fast bug hit me even harder. As much as i love my 6, it isnt truly competetive in Street Touring (and even though it has now been been placed within the Street Touring FWD classification within solo rules, its still not the most competetive platform).

Thing was, i dident really care, I just wanted to race. I knew that eventually if I wanted to continue down this path i was going to have to step into another chassis at some point not only to bring me into other forms of racing, but so that I could continue doing so without flogging the hell out my my daily transportation.

I had no intention of stepping into this world as soon as i did but when I stumbled upon this car I knew that this was one of the best shots I'd have to go racing. After going for not even a 1 mile test drive, i absolutly fell in love with the car and I just knew that this was my shot.

As far as motor swaps go, as far as rules in Improved Touring are concerned, the engine must match the VIN#, so i'm bound by those rules within the realm of club racing. However, theres no real telling what the future might hold for this little mosquito, soI'm not ruling out anything in the near future.

Yes, i know, the B6 is far fromMazdas best effort in engine design, but you have to remember that init's present state this car dosent weigh much more than a cheerleader over 2000 lbs, so it dosent really take much to motivate it.

Additionally one thing that many people fail to truly consider when racing at even the grassroots level is the cost of it all. I'm not just talking tires and gas, theres buying your race/safty gear, enrolling in driving school, fixing stuff that breaks, joining the governing organizations that run the tracks, and the list goes on... One of the biggest advantages of this motor thus far has been the cost, or more lack therof, of the parts.

Most of the parts for this engine are stupid cheap, and the savings really add up, especially with my membership at MAZDASPEED Motorsports, which allows me to get massive discounts on OEM Mazda and MAZDASPEED parts (including some aftermarket competetion parts) for this vehicle.

Throw in the fact that this motor is super easy to work on, gives me loads of clearance in and around the engine bay, and even with 200k on the stock bottom end is still dead nuts reliable, and i'd say thats a pretty damn good recipie for a starter club racer car.

The point of the Improved Touring C class is not that your able to overwhelm your competetitors with gobsof horsepower, but rather the agialty and nimbleness of this and other like cars will allow the drivers to learn the ropes of wheel to wheel racing without achieving terminal velocity while still allowing them the thrill of competetion at a realativly low cost
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Josh
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Josh »

I am so excited to see your build... WELL DONE!!

There are a few different head options if you are bound to the block. You can easily swap on a DOHC B6 head from a 323 with no issues minimal gains over the SOHC head in there.

Another is the B6DE (off of the 94-94 mx3) head which has huge intake and exhaust ports vs the 323 dohc head, but requires you to tap and cap off two oil ports.

My favorite and what I have always wanted to do is there is a mid 80's 323 that came with 8 valves vs 16. rumor has it that the valves are so big it flows more air than the 16V head. It would sound nasty too.

Good luck with your car, I look forward to seeing your progress.
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im2bad4ya
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by im2bad4ya »

NICE! 8)

You definitely put the "MX" in MX-3 (by that i mean Motocross!)


BTW, save some more weight, get rid of the A/C switch :lol:

-1992 MX-3 RS w/BP Swap Tropical Emerald Metallic "Lucky" 2005-2012 *REST IN PIECES*
Worklog: viewtopic.php?f=46&t=78176

-2003.5 MAZDASPEED Protege #882 Blazing Yellow Mica "Lemon Drop" 2012-2015 SOLD!

-2003 MAZDASPEED Protege #1186 Spicy Orange "Debbie" 2014-2015 SOLD!

-1980 Toyota Corolla Green 2014-present

-2002 Lexus IS 300 Solar Yellow 2015-present
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Ryan
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Ryan »

I know what you mean about weight, but all of these motors swap around and 50lbs for 50 hp isn't a bad trade.

The rear disc swap won't add much if any weight, and much gains. You should really look into it.

You're also talking to a guy who does casual racing, I plan to budget about $800 this summer just for admission. I'll need a set of tires and brakes after it all, too. Need a helmet first as well. I know what you mean about the cost.



Although the B isn't a monster, I DARE you to try and kill it.

It won't.

Had a BP swapped 323 friend who tried to kill his pre-swap. Drove 40min at 100km/h in 2nd gear.... straight.

It didn't even hiccup. No sweat. Redline it every shift, even cold, it doesn't matter, I swear its indestructible.
Now with Moderator power!

Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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Frost881
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Frost881 »

Taken from the 2012 General competetion Rules for club racing:

"To maintain the stock basis of Improved Touring, updating and/or backdating
of components is only permitted within cars of the same make,
model, body type (e.g., sedan, station wagon, convertible, etc.), and
engine size as listed on a single Improved Touring Specification Line.
Any updated/backdated components shall be substituted as a complete
assembly (engine long block, transmission/transaxle, induction system,
differential/axle housing). No interchange of parts between assemblies
is permitted, and all parts of an assembly shall be as originally produced
for that assembly (such parts may, however, be coated, painted or
plated). Additionally, it is not permitted to “create” a model or type of
car by updating or backdating assemblies. Parts or assemblies which the
manufacturer lists in factory service manuals or parts guides for a particular
model which supersede or replace original parts or assemblies are
permitted"


Now as with any SCCA rule, theres about 15 different ways that you oculd interpret that, so heresmy intpretation of the rule writen in English;

Any updated or backdated components have to come from the same car (I.E. MX-3 to MX-3 is a go, MX-3 to Anything else is a no)

Anything you update or backdate has to bea complete assembly (I.E.it you swap a 1.8 B8 in there it has to have the B8 trans, half shafts, diff, etc.)

Another I.E: You can't use a B6 block with a "insert swapped head here"and you can't put somthing on an engine that wasent originally produced for it from the factory.

The last one is a bit trickey, but I think its saying that you can't just make up your own version of a car (I.E. if you have a B6 MX-3 that had drums in back you cannot swap to discs out back if that perticular model of MX-3 never came with rear discs).

thats my intpretation of the rules for updating and backdating, feel free to take a crack at it if somone else see's them differently
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Ryan
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Ryan »

Hm.

I bet if you had enough money you could have factory ordered a RS with rear discs :lol:

But the 1994+ MX-3 RS did come with the 1.6 DOHC B6 with a bit more power. That seems to be permissible in your rules, and its good for 15hp. Everything that needs to come with it as an assembly would work.

Or, you can just run with your 88hp.

:shrug:


I don't think I could get into actual class racing, I like to experiment too much.
Now with Moderator power!

Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped.
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Frost881
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Frost881 »

Update time again as of 1/24/11 for operation "Pocket Rocket"

As many of you in the great white north may know its been a bit frigid up in these parts recently so that combined with school starting up has slowed proggress overall...

However, since it has been awhile since i've updated the thread theres a good bit of stuff to catch up on:

First and foremost...ITTTS ALLLIIIIIIIIIIIIVEEEEEEE!!!!!!!

yes indedede! the Mini Mazda is once again in full working order! The new oil pan is on and holding swimmingly so far, the new radiator hoses are on, has a new battery, the coolant has been flushed, it has 3 quarts of new trans fluid, and best of all IT FINALLY HAS A THERMOSTAT!!! 8)

So now i no longer have to freeze my a-- off driving this thing around in colder weather.

The trans fluid swap was fun (that cable can be a real pain in the arse to get outta the trans) but i got it unthreaded and she's got fresh valvoline 75W90 in there now.

The car is still presently sitting on 4 jack stands but hopefully this Friday i'll be able to get some time to work on her as i still need to bolt on the stiffener that goes between the block and the trans and theres a couple more odds and ends that need tying up.

Some other updates: I recently paid a trip to a local junkyard to see what i could scrounge up as far as parts. While they did have an MX-3 there, it was pretty stripped and there wasnt really much off of it that i could use...however, i didscore two very neccessary pieces that will be used as spare parts:

i managed to get two front control arms for $40. I forgot to take a pic of em but i think y'all have a pretty good idea of what control arms look like. They're rusty but not rotted. The bushings are completly shot but thats okay as MAZDASPEEDS comptetition bushing kit for the front control arms will eventually find its way onto this car, probably next season.

The second part i scored was an entire rear bumper assembly, wiring harness, foam and all, for $75. When you're goin racin theres always a chance that somones gonna give ya a lil contact and scuff up the body pannels. In my book its never a bad thing to have spares around.

Other news: I HAVE A SOPNSOR!!!

http://www.dynastypowdercoating.com/

It's just one, but it's a start. The owner of this establishment is Kyle Cafarelli, he's a local guy right here in Canton Michigan and he has agreed to sponsor my car on the condition that I represent him on said car (sponsor decal) and show off his skills through the work that he does for me.

I have a couple pieces over at his shop right now, including the OEM MX-3 wheels that i had weldcraft fix. I won't reveal any details about the pattern so you'll just have to stay tuned to see the finished product!

I have more parts incoming for the MX-3 as well, i ordered my shift plate and associated bushings as well as some odd fasteners tha were missing from the car as of today. Additionally, from the good folks at summit racing i purchased a new Stant radiator cap and a Magnaflow muffler to go with the mid-pipe. Now to just get that exhaust fabbed up...

And now for the last piece of news: My race rim dilemma has been solved!

At the last TSD rally i participated in I was able to pick up a set of Kosei KS1's with a set of Hoosier A6's mounted on them. For those not in the know, this particular model of Kosei is stupid light. In the size i got them in (14X6) they weigh in at 9.3 lbs each. The hooseirs still have some life left in them but as they're the autoX minded compound i'm probably just going to sell them off, but we shall see what i eventually decide.


Image

The engine as she sits today...notice the non yucky air filter! I'm still looking for a stock airbox but this setup will have to do for now

Image

Yes i know, the interior looks like a storage space right now, I'm workin on it okay?

Image

Heres what the kosei's look like. Even with the heavy hoosiers on em i could still use these things to practice throwing a discus, they're so damn light!!!

Image

The rear bumper i picked up as well as the muffler

Image

Heres a pic of the new oil pan, looks about 10000X better than the old one

More to come guys, stay tuned!
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Josh
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Re: MX-3 SCCA Improved Touring Club Racer Project

Post by Josh »

Very nice, great progress thus far.

If you swap in a BP ecu (even the SOHC) it will give you a higher red line, from 6500 to 7200 :) its plug and play.
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