Self-diagnosis codes 8 & 10

[im2bad4ya]

Ever since I replaced my air intake hose my car has been idling at a steady 1.5k. I turned the idle screw all the way shut and it still idles at 700. I checked all the vacuum hoses and there aren't leaks. So then I did a self-diagnosis by jumping TEN & GND and it comes up with these two codes, 8 & 10 which affect the MAF. I've read the 92 manual page F1-79 (or F1-81 is the same). But I'm not sure what it means by 'looking for an open circuit' and how I can test for this. I just wanted to know if anyone else has run into this same problem, and the likelihood that replacing the MAF would solve this issue, or maybe something easier and less expensive. As the chart in this link explains (http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/7506/image1zl5.jpg) the 'fail-safe' mode is the reason for the high idle.

[Ryan]

You can't change the idle by just turning the screw. That screw is factory set, and now you've messed with it.

You need to put it in diagnostic mode before you can change the idle, otherwise the car will just try to tune your adjustment out.

Try replacing the VAF and see what happens, they're very very very common pieces.

[im2bad4ya]

That's how I adjusted it after I fixed my leaking front pipe (except the difference was it idled too low) and it went fine. Car behaved normally.

I also ran across this video on how to clean the sensor:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AydgSxSK ... re=related

I opened the top already and I guess i can do this for now just to adjust the idle from the sensor side, but it probably won't get rid of the code. I'll try looking around for a replacement VAF and see if it makes a difference.

[im2bad4ya]

UPDATE:

If you've ever seen the inside of the MAF sensor, you know there are seven pins, three connected with wires, three connected directly the circuit board, and one that doesn't connect to anything. Well the three pins that are connected directly to the board are held together with thin strips of aluminum. So i took these strips out and soldered the pins to the board directly. Also did a quick cleaning inside the metal housing where the air flows through (I'm gonna buy MAF cleaner tomorrow and do it right). Reset the ECU and I'm glad to say the codes went away. Now I just have to drive it so it programs itself and I can properly adjust the idle.