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The idle on my gf's 93 mx3 with 190k on it gets REAL low at times - especially when it's hot outside, just got off the freeway, and come to a stop sign. Car shakes and almost stalls. I've tried cleaning throttle body, running cleaner through the gas, putting sea foam into the throttle body, changing plugs, etc.

Here's my idea -if I put some noncompressible rubber behind the gas pedal, it will act as if you have just a little foot on the gas, and keep the idle up. Here's my concern - will the computer figure this out and reduce the idle back down after awhile?

Thanks for any ideas!

Did you try adjusting the Idle Adjustment Screw?

You need to jump TEN and Ground in the diagnostic connector, then start the car, then adjust the screw once the car has reached operating temp, then remove the jumper, then shut off the car.

Umcamara - I don't recall if I tried this or not. Where is the idle adjustment screw? Is it where the throttle cable meets the throttle body? If you adjust this, will the computer override the adjustment?

Thx

The screw should be facing towards the front of the engine bay. It's a phillips-head screw near the throttle cable linkage.

If you do not enter diagnostic mode and do the procedure in the order that I mentioned, the computer will adjust back to how it was before adjusting.

Or just tighten up the throttle cable a little.

^
that it what it's there for.
the best answer is often the easy way.

Replace PCV valve with a mazda OEM one not a cheap 2 dollar one.

There is a world of difference in quality

The throttle cable is a good idea, but IMO, only if there is play in the accelerator pedal.

I thought it was best for the butterfly valve to be in the closed position when at idle, and tightening the throttle cable will open it more.

I know it's set so that there's a tiny opening and it doesn't quite touch the side walls of the TB, but I figured it was best to not open it further at idle and leave that to the idle air passage-way.

Maybe it doesn't matter.

umcamara wrote:The throttle cable is a good idea, but IMO, only if there is play in the accelerator pedal.

I thought it was best for the butterfly valve to be in the closed position when at idle, and tightening the throttle cable will open it more.

I know it's set so that there's a tiny opening and it doesn't quite touch the side walls of the TB, but I figured it was best to not open it further at idle and leave that to the idle air passage-way.

Maybe it doesn't matter.

the idle adjuster does the same thing.......

The Idle Air Adjusting screw is there to change the size of the idle air passage through the TB when the throttle plate is closed. The Idle Air Adjusting screw is located in the face of the throttle body and is, I think, the screw to which Uncamera is referring.

beefmobile wrote:

umcamara wrote:The throttle cable is a good idea, but IMO, only if there is play in the accelerator pedal.

I thought it was best for the butterfly valve to be in the closed position when at idle, and tightening the throttle cable will open it more.

I know it's set so that there's a tiny opening and it doesn't quite touch the side walls of the TB, but I figured it was best to not open it further at idle and leave that to the idle air passage-way.

Maybe it doesn't matter.

the idle adjuster does the same thing.......

I explained two different processes by which the idle is adjusted here. Your comment makes no sense.

The throttle linkage opens the butterfly plate, and the idle adjustment screw opens the COMPLETELY SEPARATE idle air passage-way.

Indeed. Adjust the idle using the idle adjustment screw. Just makes sence, no?