Codes 04 and 05

[N4than]

[Edit: Continuation of viewtopic.php?f=15&t=66937" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; , didn't notice anyone replied so I started another thread, feel free to merge them mods, sorry]


G'day all,

I'm having a problem with my eunos 30x (k8) running like s--- between 1000RPM-3500RPM, engine runs great from cold start, so I'm thinking it's nothing major (or hopefully not).

I've just pulled the codes and am getting 04 and 05.

So my question is, where is the knock sensor and wiring harnesses for it, are the wiring harnesses close to crank angle sensor? I'm thinking both are just making poor contact or are damaged.

Chears,

-Nathan

[marcdh]

Gday

Knock sensor is in the valley between the two heads, roughly in the centre, under the fuel rails. Your crank angle sensor wiring should run up from crank along the dipstick to the coolant neck, where it connects to the rear harness. I think the knock sensor connector ends up quite close too.

*EDIT*
Code 4 is camshaft position sensor, not crank, which is in the dizzy IIRC.

You tried resetting ECU? - disconnect battery negative and press brake pedal for about 30 seconds.

[nsngarage]

I just had the same problem with CEL 04.. That is in the dizzy.. try replacing the dizzy and seeing if you still pull the same codes... Make sure you reset the ECU before you recheck the codes lol.. I've done that before


Good luck..

[Daninski]

Distritutor link http://search.stores.ebay.com/DISTRIBUT ... d3QQsofpZ0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[N4than]

The reason I don't believe it's the distributor is because it does not run rough while cold, it hits a certain temperature and then starts miss-firing and losing power.

(taken from my post on the Aussie teameunos forums):

*** NOT HAPPY - BEEN TO MAZDA DEALER $438 AND STILL NOT FIXED

Here is what they did:

JOB 1:
* CUSTOMER IS COMPLAINING THAT CAR CUTS OUT WHEN GETS UP TO OPERATING TEMP.
* CHECKED FOR ERROR CODES ETC, CHECKED ALL SENSORS AND WIRING, ALL OKAY, CHECKED SERVICE HISTORY, FOUND ONE SPARK PLUG LEAD BROKEN, SUPPLIED AND FITTED NEW SPARK PLUG LEADS AS REQUIRED, REASSEMBLED AND ROAD TESTED, STILL LOSING POWER UNDER ACCELERATION. REFER JOB 2

JOB 2:
REPLACED SPARK PLUGS, BLOCKED FUEL RETURN LINE TO CHECK FUEL PRESSURE, ALL OKAY, WILL NEED TO REBOOK VEHICLE FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC CHECKS.

Wow what morons they're. Spark plug lead broken? bulls---, they were all new. Same with plugs. No error codes? bulls---.



WHO DO I TAKE IT TO WHO KNOWS HOW TO DIAGNOSE A FAULT, FIND THE CAUSE AND REPAIR THE ISSUE.

Someone, anyone? Certainly not the car manufacturer, they know nothing about their own cars.