building a 250-300hp bp/b6 my idea's need input as 1st time

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ok hi all been reading up on the forum for about a week now and i have gotten a bt of this and a bit of that and have even visited a performance sites i am picking up my bp/b6 august 4 it's from a 94 escort 4 cyl 1.8l standard so i am looking to rebuild it to get the power what i don't know is if i need to do some of the things to get the power i want as i said new. i have always wanted tubo so going with a small one to start but that will come later just putting it out there so people understand my plans.. now i am looking to replace the pistons and rods with Carrillo Rods Pro-A beam, set of 4 fro cork sport and Wiseco Piston Set looking at either 8.5:1 o 9:1 opinions please also if have better products or just as good that you can get for cheaper let me know also looking at CorkSport Complete Head Upgrade
Valve Springs: Eibach EVS adds $219, Valves: Ferrea SS Oversize adds $387, Lifters: Lightweight Racing Solid Lifters adds $537, Camshafts: CorkSport Turbo Performance Cams, Adds $485 total $2610 us i'm in canada and the exchange isn't to bad ... again do i need this or is it over the top for what i am looking to do oh was looking at these to Mazdaspeed Adjustable Cam Gear Set reason i took all from cork sport is well listed out and seems alot of people on here get from them again open to ideas saving money all that grin ... oh this is of course going into my mx-3 and anywhere i can save a bit is good as am not rich .. lol .. will also be looking to get higher volume fuel pump and and biger injectors any opinions on the injectors size etc .... might be also getting a second mx-3 same as mine but black needs alot of work for 500 to 1000. ok not sure lot more but goo start if need more info ask will let know ..

just some back ground i have redone a 83 dodge ram trany and engine just replaced trany, rebuilt the top end of my 96 ranger redid the heads new gaskets etc. redid trany solinoid seals and seal in trany .

redid electrical in friends ford taurus wagon when altenator fried almost all of it , plus rebuilt altenator. i am inventive creative and resoursful and not bad at learning am mostly self taught.

thanks all in advance and please i am for real and am still reading the forums hope you all have a great one

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

check out supertech slugs. And I would stay away from carillo's. If you only want 250-300 check out ETDracing or belfab.

[RS_OBD'oh_2]

http://www.etdracing.com/miatarods.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.belfabracing.com/product_inf ... 1b4bca26f6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
-they've got a lot of goodies for the bp/b6. If you need any info the miata forums will help you out with how ppl like the belfab lineup. You may also find them on ebay once in a blue moon.

[Mi|<E]

I used the belfab package on my rebuild and was quite pleased with it. The
main benefit is the pistons have the oil squirter clearance pre cut into them
so there is no need to modify anything / remove the squirters. It came with
pretty much everything you need to rebuild including gaskets. There is a
minor difference with the head gasket as the full kit is designed for a miata
and you will have some extras that dont go anywhere. Oh you will have to
get some valve keepers if you go this route - the B6 and BP ones do not
fit the stiffer miata setup. Miata is a difference of about 2 degrees on the
keepers.

The quality of the parts is as good as anything else out there, uses mostly
supertech items (pistons, rings, valves, springs, shims etc). Felpro gasket kit. On
my rebuild ive had nothing leak.

You can probably run the stock BP if your power goals are not exceeding 300 HP/torque
but if its a rebuild you want id recommend the Belfab stuff. Replace everything if you go
this route - oil pump, water pump, timing belt, tensioners, frost plugs, block heater etc in addition to the kit.

If you have read up some on the turbo BPs people run you will know the weakest link is
the transmission. The F-series on the 4 banger mx-3's just wont do, the shafts are made
of spun sugar and the gears of glass. It should have come with a 'CAUTION: FRAGILE' yellow sticker on it. G-series transmissions are the way to go here, the Escort GT and Protege LX come with these. Axles here will be different, you need the Protege axles with the half shaft to fit the BP block properly. The mx-3 94+ passenger axles will not work, the
halfshaft on it is just a little too small (22mm out I think). If you have the 93 or earlier axles your good to go but you will eventually want to get the BP axles with halfshaft to eliminate torque steer.

Thats all I want to shpiel about right now. Any more specific questions id be happy to answer. Oh check my worklog if you want to see the belfab stuff. (red link @ bottom)

[nos92mx3]

For only 250-300 whp i would leave the engine alone.
maybe some headwork and some cams.

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hi all thank you for the idea's i have the 95/96 mx-3 the one i am hoping to get is a 94 so i have been told .. seen it but not gone through it .. i am trying to bid on an autopac claim ie insurance write off they post the pic's of the damage on line and give the basic spec's so i will have the whole car looking to try and get the gt or the lx .. as i want to do the lsd on the trany too. I have hear both way's on the trany for the mx-3 weak .. and brittle and the other is .. good till about 300hp. so i figured to go with the whole car if it comes up willing to wait a bit there are 2 up but auto's no good .. ok .. as said this is first time ..Mi|<E you mentioned about valve keepers not sure what that is but will figure out by tomorrow or next day with more reading .. like i said fast study .. and a disire to learn and the extra gaskets remind me of what i got with my ranger a grab bag of a million gaskets some that the book had nothing listed for and the mech's at hwy's looked at with amusment. the general opinion was that two gasket sets one for my truck and one for a 8cyl got stuck together in error .. i keep the extra's as a reminder of the joy's of auto work lol... that was something i had a question about is the squirters need don't need hard to do .. worth it .. etc. ? never seen only have heard of them .. as for why doing rebuild well getting an old engine and stuffing it in car only to push it and blow the seals and gaskets .. not my idea of fun .. tha and i have a 7 year old son and want to show him as i go .. along bit by bit here and there he loves cars too and later he wants to do one with me when he is older. lol by then we might all be glowing in a nuclear holocost or driving hydrogen cell cars or methane/propane vehicles .. lol .. and we will all be swearing and looking for where the hell to get our next tank of fuel from .. lmao ...


RS_OBD'oh_2

thanks for list will try and look through site's tomorrow thanks for help ..

nos92mx3
grin .. i know but hell whats the fun of that then you have no reason to really curse at your stupidity for not double checking foot pounds for inch pounds as half the bolt is in the motor and the other half in your socket hee hee .. the masicist in me .. sorry for my spelling i know it sucks .. did finish school etc and all have learning disability when comes to spelling ..
but want the turbo's to and if i don't do the work .. after the input it will go kaput with my luck .. alot of these engines have 160k or more on them .. and no idea up front on how were treated .. but whole car running for 500 cdn with a 2nd claim thats an auto write off!!! .. thats worth it ..

again any input idea's critic thats some what constuctive a all ears thanks ..

oh still wondering 8.5:1 or 9:1 on the compresion i don't think will be doing more than 15 psi at top end .. thanks

[nos92mx3]

If anything i would just freshin up the bottom end.
Jwmotorsports put something like 10k miles on small snout small rod b6 bottom end at 20+ psi on a gt32, daily driven.
If your worried about strength pick up a bpt or a b6t (the b6t from a 88-89 323 gtx). the rods from either of these motors rival that of those in the Dsm community, if anything just replace the rod bolts with some 3/8 arp's and call it a day.
For your power goals i see no reason to build the bottom end.
Hell im aiming for 400+ on pump(with meth injection) on a stock bottom end! (small snout/rod)

What i mean by small snout and rod is some of the pre 92 motors cam with a 22mm crank snout, with the occasional failure of the key way, later motors cam with a 27 mm crank snout.
Look in the 4 cyc faq for a pic on the rods. It'll be in there some where.