What Is The BEST Oil For 2.5 KLZE?

[Shu_Hayate09]

ive seen other ppls posts on some other forums and they were like

"arghh, so now i know why my KLZE is messed... ive been feedin it 10w30"


so i dunno what thats about

what is the best oil suggested for KLZE ?

thanx ppls *thumbs up*

[mitmaks]

nothing wrong with 10w30, just make sure its good quality not some 75c a quart from a gas station and preferably a synthetic.

[Shu_Hayate09]

whats the downside of using 5w30 in the summer / spring months these days

[Kirk95gs]

I use old oil from McDonalds, or if thats out then I collect old oil filters and press the oil out with a vice.


5w30 flows better in the cold but will not hold up to high heat temp running, 10w30 is mostly used in the summer. However most older cars run 10w30 year around. Some shops still run 10w30 everything. This can cause some issues in colder weather. You might hear knocking when the motor first starts up befor it gets warm. I have always followed what the manual called for. Use synthetic as it will hold up to more abuse and not break down as quick as regular oil.

[solo_ryder]

I run Amsoil 5w40, great oil

[Jepha]

I was also wondering this, i think when i get a oil change ima run AMS 10w/30

[Mnemonic]

I ran 5w30 Synthetic year round in georgia, never had a problem

[Shu_Hayate09]

AMS is some good Shiet?

What bout 10w30 royal purple?

[MX3-Life]

I use to run Quaker State then i realized i drive a MX3 not a Porsche, So i switched to Castrol GTX... Never looked back.

[zzzoomx3]

run a can of Seafoam through your engine - maybe 2 depending on how old and dirty it is - as for oil - i used Castrol Synthetic - 10/30 - oil wieghts and what to use really depends on the climate you drive in and operating temps. there is a great write up on wikipedia - check it out - you'll learn alot

[fowljesse]

I use Royal Purple, because it is almost the same as Amsoil, Redline, etc..., just slighly less in the additives, so costs less. Mobil 1 is just below it in quality, but still better than what's left of T-Rex. The only downside to synthetic is that it doesn't "carry" heat as well as dinosur oil, so if your car runs hot, it will run hotter. I ran 20w50 in my GS for a little while (in 100 degree weather), because it made the ticking go away, but it hurt gas mileage, so I stopped. I recommend getting the oil filter for a Corvette ZR1, because it's bigger. NAPA gold is the best priced of the best filters.
Is it Quaker State that leaves sludge in the engine?

[zzzoomx3]

The only downside to synthetic is that it doesn't "carry" heat as well as dinosur oil, so if your car runs hot, it will run hotter.

i dont know where you got that info Jess but, True synthetics include classes of lubricants like synthetic esters as well as "others" like GTL (Methane Gas-to-Liquid) (Group V) and polyalpha-olefins (Group IV), although actual base oil content of finished blended motor oils is not a factor. Higher purity and therefore better property control theoretically means synthetic oil has good mechanical properties at extremes of high and low temperatures. The molecules are made large and "soft" enough to retain good viscosity at higher temperatures, yet branched molecular structures interfere with solidification and therefore allow flow at lower temperatures. Thus, although the viscosity still decreases as temperature increases, these synthetic motor oils have a much improved viscosity index over the traditional petroleum base. Their specially designed properties allow a wider temperature range at higher and lower temperatures and often include a lower pour point. With their improved viscosity index, true synthetic oils need little or no viscosity index improvers, which are the oil components most vulnerable to thermal and mechanical degradation as the oil ages, and thus they do not degrade as quickly as traditional motor oils.

[fowljesse]

Good info..
but..
I wasn't talking about it's viscosity, or ability to hold up against thermal breakdown. As I was typing that, I was thinking "Dang, I'm going to have to explain this at some point".
Synthetics don't absorb heat as much as dino. Therefor, the heat isn't carried away from the cylinders as efficiently, and will run slightly hotter, albiet, not enough that the system even notices, becasue the syn lubes better. If a car is running at the system's threshold already, it can make it worse.
I shouldn't have even mentioned it, because it's case specific, and doesn't really matter.
Thanks for making me clear this up, in case I mislead anyone.

[zzzoomx3]

(not trying to argue) but i still dont think thats right, unless im misunderstanding you - where are you getting that info? - because synths can operate at temps that dino breaks down. the bottom line really is synths are designed for "long life" extended drain intervals, but most users rarely run it long enough to gain a cost-effective return. since synths costs 2 to 3 times as much as dino, synths would have to be used 2 to 3 times longer than dino just to break even. but in the end, analysis of the engine wear shows identical or even lower wear with dino oils. so, its really about the driver and his wallet. i personally will continue to use synths over dino - and one of the main reasons for that is ecological.

[fowljesse]

"What we have here is a failure to communicate" (from "Cool Hand Luke")
Synthetic is superior oil, and I will always run it.

I'll try again...
If you were to try to cool something using both types of oil (say, a hot metal tube), you would have to run more syn through it, because it doesn't conduct heat as well. The difference is negligible, on water cooled engines. I grew up building Air cooled engines, and worked with the premier VW Turbo man, who has built a bunch of sub 10 sec flat-4 (bug engine) Turbo drag cars. This is how I know.