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93BlackMX3 · Post by **93BlackMX3** » March 22nd, 2008, 11:13 pm

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umcamara · Post by **umcamara** » March 23rd, 2008, 1:13 am

Well...first of all. With your logic, you're getting 15L/100 Km compared to the factory spec for a B6 automatic, which is 9.4L/100 Km. The gas tank has a 50 L capacity.

The problem is, you can't do a mileage calculation the way that you're doing it. When you're gas gauge it 1/4 down, it doesn't mean that you've burnt a quarter of a tank. Gas tanks are not uniform in dimension, so if the fuel level in the tank goes down 1/4 the height of the tank, it rarely ever means that 1/4 of the volume of the tank has been consumed.

The proper way to calculate your mileage is to reset your trip meter, fill gas tank, drive car until you would normally refuel, record the distance on the trip meter and the amount of fuel that you add this last time to fill that tank again.

(Litres of gas added second time)-------=---------(x Litres)
(Distance Driven)----------------------------------------100 Km

se7en · Post by **se7en** » March 23rd, 2008, 1:21 am

correct me if I am wrong, but the ecu pulls fuel out when you are coasting down a hill, so putting it in neutral will not help at all, it may even burn more gas, becasue the engine doesn't really burn any fuel when the load on it is virually zero.

fowljesse · Post by **fowljesse** » March 23rd, 2008, 5:57 am

I actually studied this, and the BEST way to do it (for mileage) is turn it off while coasting, and pop start it when you start to slow down. Otherwise, coasting in neutral uses less gas than coasting in gear. More info @ http://www.gassavers.org" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I live in a struggle between driving fast (my Mercedes gets less than 20 mpg), RVing, and not blowing all my $$ on gas, so I know alot about each..

se7en · Post by **se7en** » March 23rd, 2008, 1:17 pm

that may be true, but I would be a little worried about not having power brakes an dpower steering in case of emergency.

fowljesse · Post by **fowljesse** » March 23rd, 2008, 3:19 pm

Yeah, don't do it on the twisties!
When I do it, I anticipate, and have it in gear, in case I need the extra engine brake.
When travelling from Houston to Portland, I went through a part of Colorado, where I coasted for several miles, and it was a little twisty. It took effort, but wasn't scary. I got 35 MPG that tank!

se7en · Post by **se7en** » March 23rd, 2008, 6:21 pm

ya know, it's funny, I used to drive a dodge ram 5.9L(1998) it got like 8 MPG.

my mx-3 if turbo'd and I drive the crap out of it, and I still get pretty good mileage...
(15MPG)

That's good enough for me lol

don't be so cheap, and drive that car like you stole it! heh

J/K sorta

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umcamara · Post by **umcamara** » March 23rd, 2008, 7:16 pm

Not to split hairs here... but if you're turning your engine off to coast, you have to start it again whether it's using the starter or just by turning the ignition on. To me, this may be saving a tiny bit of fuel, but it's putting unneccessary wear on the engine.
When you shut the engine off, oil is no longer being splashed through it, and is dripping off the cylinder walls. Then when it runs again, it's basically like a dry start.

JeremyP · Post by **JeremyP** » March 23rd, 2008, 7:54 pm

i was getting bad gas mileage on my bp...turned out my ebreak was seized a few notches up....enough that it was hard to turn the wheel well it was in the air....may want to check that out...just my 2 cents.

fowljesse · Post by **fowljesse** » March 24th, 2008, 4:48 am

93BlackMX3, defintely do a tune up, and check all the hoses, belts, and connections, and maybe use injector cleaner.

umcamera, The oil stays on the parts for a little while. I think it's about 8 minutes. Within 6 minutes, it causes no extra wear, and I put it in a gear to restart it that makes it smooth.
se7en, I'm bipolar between saving gas, and driving like a maniac. I've got stories that aren't allowed here

jman271 · Post by **jman271** » March 24th, 2008, 9:51 am

I have been testing my mpg in my 93 mx-3 w/ 5 spd w/ 75,000 miles.
I have a 13 gal tank,(according to the manual) and have been re-fueling @ the 10 gal mark consistantly and getting 30 mpg and then after a few mods, now getting about 34 mpg, and I hope to have this up to 36 mpg in the next week. Here is what I have done and it is working, and then intend to do,,,,,post away and let the bashing begin!

Things I have done that have improved my mpg
I blocked off the cold air feed on the fender wall to the air box and as well as the hood scoop cold air feed into the airbox. For the hood scoop under the hood feed, I cut an access door and fed direct hot air off the exh manifold into the new hole. I plan on fabing a small hood to trap and direct the air better. Hot air = better mpg.
All these CAI systems are good for power and looks, but do not help w/ mpg.

I added 3 oz of 100% Acetone and 3 oz of 100% Xylene to every 10 gal of gas,(fill up your tank in the am, gas is denser in the colder morning temps in the ground and you are more likely getting closer to a gal of gas in the am as opposed to the pm). Also, fill up your tank w/ the slow setting, not the high setting on the trigger.
The additive mix has yeiled a small increase in mpg, about 12%.

I changed to fuel filter to a better filament, cleaner fuel = better mpg.

I installed some low resistance spark plugs, NGK V-Power to be exact, w/a tighter gap of .030, this is better for amperage and ignition.=better mpg.

Not running the A/C unit.

Consolidating trips and errands.

Things that I plan on doing to increase mpg and will post results

I am going to try some diff plugs, Halo type,(google this).

I am going to run a less resistant but just as protective engine oil, less resistance= better mpg.

I am going to fab a fuel pre-heater that comes off the fuel filter on the fire wall. The line will wrap around the rad hose and transfer heat from the rad hose and into the fule before the intake. I will wrap as a coil around the rad hose and then wrapped in ceramic headter tape like on motorcycles to trap the heat into the fuel. Warmer fuel = better mpg.

I am going to try a hydrogen conversion generator and introduce this after the air filter and just before the throttle body @ the intake.
I should be able to increase to 40 mpg w/ the HHO gen, fuel warmer and plugs, will post more as I tweak it.

Jman

se7en · Post by **se7en** » March 24th, 2008, 2:11 pm

oh boy, the above poster is crazy anal about his gas

lol

I still firmly believe that you should start out with your foot to the floor(as soon as it warms up a bit of course) and keep your foot there until you are at your destination.

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fowljesse · Post by **fowljesse** » March 24th, 2008, 2:57 pm

Maybe jman271 will offset se7en's carbon footprint.

Sound's like your doing it right. Try also smoothing out the underside of the car by covering it bumper to bumper. I'm thinking about doing that with aluminum, or other sheet metal, putting in aluminum screen under the exhaust, and rear of the engine. I recommend Royal Purple synthetic oil. It's the cheapest of the best syn oils, and using the NAPA gold oil filter #1324. It's bigger than our OEM, and better. If your car's not lowered, do that, too, to reduce drag significantly. If you don't have a lip spoiler, get, or make one. I increase the gap slightly, for better spark. They do this in hypermile races.
Also, if you're going just for mileage, you should get low rolling resistant skinny tires.
I could go on... I've studied this.
Check out http://www.gassavers.org" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and the book "How to save at the pump" by Bob Sikorski.
I run my tires @ the sidewall max, and have on all my vehicles for years, with no problems. On my GSZE, I take corners at about cruising speed. Coming off the main road, I take a 90 degree at about 60, and tires don't make a sound (but my suspension is completely done except whiteline sway bar). My car can probably do a full lateral G.
With my ZE (2.5L) car, I get about 30 mpg (with 2 3/4 oz. Acetone), driving about 70 mph, and having fun once in a while. Most of it is due to the aerodynamics. My Drag coefficient is about .26 (less than a Porsche Boxster).
Oh, and be careful about the fuel line around the rad hose! The engine moves, and the firewall doesn't!

stephen-mx3 · Post by **stephen-mx3** » March 24th, 2008, 8:56 pm

there was tests done on a Citroen C2 VTS (its a very small, quite nippy 1.6 with flappy padel gear change!!) and apparently, the most economical way to drive that was HARD acceleration up to 2200rpm and then change gears.

The logic is that cars are engineered to accelerate so that is what they are best at.

And the test was done by the Germans, so obviously it was very precise!!

jman271 · Post by **jman271** » March 25th, 2008, 7:29 am

se7en- I know I came across as anal about the mpg, but I drive 500 miles a week, so any chance I get to save @ the pump I will try it,,,,gas is $3.35 a gal right now and expected to go up to $4 per gal, in Hawaii right now it is $5.
I am running the Halo plugs, they came in last night,,,,we will see,,,,

Jesse, good I dea on the underbody flow, if I can find a good source for cheap material, it would be worth it,,,,I am going to try to find a way to lighten the car too,,,,,rims maybe,,,,,if I could shave off a 100lbs, that would mean some savings.
It all adds up to better mpg.

MX-3.com

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