Brake Bleeding Issue

Darcy · Post by **Darcy** » November 27th, 2007, 10:43 pm

I replaced the shoes and wheel cylinders on both sides on the rear on my RS.

I have bled the back brakes as much as I can and I don't see any more air bubbles coming out but it still seems a wee bit squishy.

Is there a possibility air got into the front lines, or are those isolated? I'd rather not have to bleed those as well, but if I must, then I must.

mitmaks · Post by **mitmaks** » November 28th, 2007, 12:28 am

I would bleed all the 4 corners

Post by **Mooneggs** » November 28th, 2007, 9:52 am

make sure you do it like this: rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver... you have to start at the furthest point away from the resevoir to have the most effectiveness in bleeding...

Darcy · Post by **Darcy** » November 28th, 2007, 12:49 pm

I trust you know a lot of stuff mechanically about the car, but I think you might be off on this one.

The workshop manual says: "Air bleeding must be done from the bleeder screw farthest from the disassembled parts to the nearest"

So, if I simply replace the driver side wheel cylinder, does that really mean I have to re-bleed all other corners? Seems overkill.

In my case, since I disassembled the rear wheel cylinders, I would have to bleed the front ones first, then the rear ones according to the documentation

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » November 28th, 2007, 6:11 pm

Air can get induced into the hydraulic system and travel like you wouldnt believe. So while it may seem excessive.. Mooneggs method of bleeding the brake system is the best routine to ensure all air is bled from the system. Or you can cheat like me and just pay Clutch Doctors $35 for a power bleed and be done with it. But then I am a lazy bastage too

Tunes67

mitmaks · Post by **mitmaks** » November 28th, 2007, 8:29 pm

Darcy wrote:I trust you know a lot of stuff mechanically about the car, but I think you might be off on this one.

The workshop manual says: "Air bleeding must be done from the bleeder screw farthest from the disassembled parts to the nearest"

So, if I simply replace the driver side wheel cylinder, does that really mean I have to re-bleed all other corners? Seems overkill.

In my case, since I disassembled the rear wheel cylinders, I would have to bleed the front ones first, then the rear ones according to the documentation

you've asked for advice. It was given to you. You choose to debate it, now it's up to you if you want to ignore it and have brakes fail on you and you'll slide into
a pedestrian
b tree
c someone's house
d all of the above

Now if you want to do best thing go and buy some blue dot 4 brake fluid and that way you'll see when its changed and completely bled out when it comes out blue from all 4 corners. Also get yourself some speed bleeders. Best $20 Ive spend on my mx-3

94mx3precidia · Post by **94mx3precidia** » November 28th, 2007, 9:26 pm

I got a one man brake bleeding kit and vacum pump in one. It comes with adaptors and plugs. For $75 it was worth it.

MazdaManiacMx3 · Post by **MazdaManiacMx3** » November 29th, 2007, 12:00 am

94mx3precidia wrote:I got a one man brake bleeding kit and vacum pump in one. It comes with adaptors and plugs. For $75 it was worth it.

Vaccuum pumps rule , thats exactly what I was just going to suggest
Kris -

Darcy · Post by **Darcy** » November 29th, 2007, 12:24 am

Thanks for all of your advice. It really is much appreciated. I'm not here for the sake of debating, I'm trying to learn this stuff as this is the first time I've done brakes.

Never heard of 'speed bleeding' or a 'power bleed' so I will have to check that out.

94mx3precidia · Post by **94mx3precidia** » November 29th, 2007, 7:54 pm

Darcy wrote: Never heard of 'speed bleeding' or a 'power bleed' so I will have to check that out.

well if u really wanted to spped bleed take a portable wet/dry vacum and attach a bleeder hose to the end of the vacum and suck the fluid out the bleeder nipple. You dont have to pump the breaks but someone will have to be close to top up the reservoir in a relitively fast pace.

Bochek · Post by **Bochek** » November 29th, 2007, 10:33 pm

Bleeding the brakes on the mx-3 is SIMPLE it takes 1 person and less then 20 minutes total.

Disclaimer: This works with the RS, with rear DRUM brakes, i have not tried it on the GS with DISK brakes

Start by filling up the brake fluid reservoir right to the top. (past the fill mark, don't worry about it)

Make sure the vehicle is sitting flat (I usually do it on the ground, but you can do it on jack stands or a hoist if you wish just make sure you lift all 4 corners evenly.)

start at any corner, it doesn't matter. and loosen off the bleeder bolt, place a cup or something to catch whatever brake fluid you can (don't worry if you get it everywhere, just DO NOT get it on the body of your car, brake fluid will eat right through paint in very little time)

Walk away for 5 minuets, go get a drink or some food or something, come back, tighten the bleeder.

Grab your garden hose and soak everything around the bleeder, the inside of your wheel, everything, this will stop the brake fluid from eating through any paint or whatever it has gotten itself on.

Check your fluid level in the reservoir it probably wont be below the FULL mark but it should have defintly moved from where it was. Top it off if necessary and move on to another corner.

This method is called gravity bleeding, and all of the air WILL either make it up to the master cylinder or out the bleeder bolts. It also will purge out any old brake fluid in the lines (its good to change it every now and then anyways as brake fluid is designed to absorb water causing nasty problems like rotten lines brake fluid boiling)

Once all 4 corners are done, check the level in your master cylinder making sure it is around the FULL mark. Thats it.

Good luck.

nolig2278 · Post by **nolig2278** » January 14th, 2009, 3:33 pm

anyone use mityvac to bleed the brakes?

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Brake Bleeding Issue

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