Oil pan needs removal or not?

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se7en
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Oil pan needs removal or not?

Post by se7en »

I haven't looked yet, but is it possible to remove the oil pan in the car pretty easily?

I will be putting the oil drain back bung in the pan, and I would like to remove it to do this.

unless someone here knows of a way to do this without removing the pan.

thanks

7
1992 mx-3 GS-T, 10-12psi, T3/t4 hybrid, Turbosmart WG, AFPR, SSAC TURBO pipes, MSD Blaster coil, K&N, AEM W/B, MSnS(full standalone), 225Whp street tuned(10psi), 245Whp (12psi)(300bhp!!!)
1992 Fairlady Z(JDM RHD) 2+2 TT black(done!)700whp+
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XxantwawnxX
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Post by XxantwawnxX »

u can remove it easy enough.
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* * * * * * 92 Mx3 ZET, rear/front swaybars,srd crossmember,HKS SSQV,cold air,ZE with millinia mani and TB and 280cc injectors,INtrax springs with tokiko HP struts, Grounding kit, MotegiTrakLite wheels 17's at 14lbs each, MSnS Running fuel and spark,HEI mod,T3/To4E .60/.63 stage 3 turbine,3rd gen rx7 fuel pump, SSAC Headers/hotpipes ,38 ext tial wastegate, findanza flywheel, SBC TZ clutch/pressureplate,braille11pound battery/ magnum drilled F/R rotors,projectors, CXmotorsports almuminum intercooler.
hgallegos915
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Post by hgallegos915 »

Hey dont skimp out on the oil pan bung. Summit dells one for like 15 or less dollars shipped!! get the 1/2 inch one. The fitting you can get it at lowes or any hardware store, its for water but will work for oil (since its made of metal)

Dont make the same mistake i did., my oil line was to small and the turbo seals were blowing oil.
-hec

MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
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se7en
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Post by se7en »

ya, no worries, I have a good bung already.

thanks for the info!

7
1992 mx-3 GS-T, 10-12psi, T3/t4 hybrid, Turbosmart WG, AFPR, SSAC TURBO pipes, MSD Blaster coil, K&N, AEM W/B, MSnS(full standalone), 225Whp street tuned(10psi), 245Whp (12psi)(300bhp!!!)
1992 Fairlady Z(JDM RHD) 2+2 TT black(done!)700whp+
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Vanished
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Post by Vanished »

Yup it's quite simple, just a matter of removing about a dozen bolts...there are only 2 that are hard to reach, but you should be ok if you have a good set of tools.

Prying it off what the other fun part, but a flathead screwdriver should do the trick.

When putting it back on, use a generous about of gasket maker (silicon) and if you can, get new bolts. The old ones tend to break if you torque them to spec.
If you reuse the old ones, be carefull not to snap them off!!!
1992 Blaze MX-3 GS *R.I.P.*

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Icedawg
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Post by Icedawg »

Probably the hardest thing is disconnecting the exhaust line, so you can pull the pan. All that heat and rust make those bolts nasty.
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se7en
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Post by se7en »

ah, a fellow canuck!

ya, those bolt really are a pain in the a$$. I only broke one when I did the mtx swap ;)

7
1992 mx-3 GS-T, 10-12psi, T3/t4 hybrid, Turbosmart WG, AFPR, SSAC TURBO pipes, MSD Blaster coil, K&N, AEM W/B, MSnS(full standalone), 225Whp street tuned(10psi), 245Whp (12psi)(300bhp!!!)
1992 Fairlady Z(JDM RHD) 2+2 TT black(done!)700whp+
My Feedback
Don't Click Here! Trust me,Time waster!
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