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starting winter kl turbo build got a few questions

Posted: October 11th, 2007, 10:45 pm
by K8Boosted
( i have some experiance from my k8 turbo i ran over the summer but that was just for some learning experiance i invested about grand in the setup ran a 13.9 on 16 psi untuned. NOW THE GOAL IS A RELIABLE 13 SECOND STREET CAR

So heres the winter setup

KLDE
Forged Pistons
Performance Rings
Performance Wrist Pins
TOGA HP Main Bearings
TOGA HP Rod Bearings
NO RODS I DONT HAVE THE MONEY :( Cant see spending 2 grand

Turbo
Turbonetics t04b

i guess u could say my goal is 300whp

heres my thought MEGASQUIRT SCARES ME.. im a highschool kid that isnt even the best with computers and have almost no experience with engine managment

some of my friends are using the apexi neo on their hondas
it allows a 16 point fuel correction pretty much self explanatory

i plan on running a walbro 255 fuel pump, millenia 280cc injectors and maybe a fmu i have sitting around
i would use the apexi neo to adjust fuel delivary and check my air/fuel ratios with a aem uego wideband kit and play around with it till i get it just right... would this be sufficient and safe to run this kl at lets just say above 10 psi

thanks for ur time zac

Posted: October 11th, 2007, 10:55 pm
by Limegreen mx-3
no standalone thats not good..

say goodbye to ur

KLDE
Forged Pistons
Performance Rings
Performance Wrist Pins
TOGA HP Main Bearings
TOGA HP Rod Bearings

Posted: October 11th, 2007, 11:20 pm
by Mnemonic
you must have standalone! and the safc are no bueno with the k series motors

Posted: October 12th, 2007, 12:09 am
by MazdaManiacMx3
I would atleast get some Millenia S rods , 16lbs is a lot of boost on stock rods

Posted: October 12th, 2007, 12:14 am
by MazdaManiacMx3
I would atleast get some Millenia S rods , 16lbs is a lot of boost on stock rods

Posted: October 12th, 2007, 3:35 am
by hgallegos915
fmu arent very reliable.. its scary to see on the wideband when it leans out as soon as you decrease speed or change gears.

Posted: October 13th, 2007, 12:26 pm
by RS_OBD'oh_2
If you are gunna be using the UEGO by AEM you might want to check out the AEM F/IC... This is what I will be using on my DOHC project. It's a highly advanced piggyback. I know the hardcore guys around here frown on the piggys.. but check it out. Has more features than the neo.. 21x17 maps, and easy hook up for your wideband. From AEM it's 460~ usd. Ebay... 380.00.

Posted: October 13th, 2007, 4:22 pm
by K8Boosted
i understand hands down stand alone management is the best choice.....
but i do not have the money or know how to mess with it.. im a high school kids that works part time as a lifeguard

i will prolly invest in millenia s rods,, i dont know where u someone thought id be running 16psi.. (that what i did on my k8 just for fun it lasted a 2 months but dam did i have fun. 13.9 out of a stock turbo k8 with 220cc injectors, fuel pump, and a cheap ebay turbo coundlt ask for more)

i looked into the aem stuff and yes definatly better than the apexi.. i prolly end up with that.

and yes i do not like fmu's at all i have one and didnt even bother with it on k8.. i thought i would just mention it cuz i prolly hook it up and try it in the future at least

Posted: October 13th, 2007, 5:00 pm
by XxantwawnxX
hgallegos915 wrote:fmu arent very reliable.. its scary to see on the wideband when it leans out as soon as you decrease speed or change gears.
its suppose to go leaner when u let off the throttle. Usuualy a fuel cut when u decelerate(let off throttle with no brake applied), saves gas and helps to break the car.

BUT you are corrrect , fmu's are the poop.

Also like mazdamaniac said...SOME kinda rods are gonna benefit you. Stand alone is a must.

Posted: October 13th, 2007, 5:54 pm
by hppwdn
Until you can afford to get rods don't waste your money on the other parts. The puzzle is not complete without rods. Those are a key part of a motor built for boost. Just throw in a DE or ZE and boost it. Both can handle your goal of 300whp pretty reliably with a good tune. Spend the money you saved by putting in a stock DE to buy a megasquirt and run standalone. The key to boosting this motors is a good tune. Otherwise they'll go boom no matter what you have in them.

I ran 300whp on my ze reliably and can name three other DE/ZEs boosted on stock internals running a reliable 300whp. (Roughly 10psi on a ze and 12psi on a DE) 300whp us about peak for the millenia 280 injectors, but they can do it.

For reference this what a stock rod does under higher boost levels.
Image

This is what the rods in my built motor look like compared to stock.
Image

Posted: October 13th, 2007, 6:04 pm
by Limegreen mx-3
there is MS-II and there is tons of info on how to install and tune for ur K8.

its a cheap standalone but it does work.. than i can say being around stuf like that..

its a cheaper alterive compared to a tecII or haltec or mirco tec, or TEC III or TEC GT

at tabout 1/4 of the prices i mention above..

Posted: October 14th, 2007, 10:53 pm
by K8Boosted
alright well i brought my father into this whole situation on managment..
he a electrical engineer who biulds and programs controllers for industrial machines so lets just say he definatly understands whats going on.
ive started reading through the megasquirt websites.. browsed around on probetalk...

as of now the plan mostly likly is run a remachined kl03with millenia s rods and megasquirt 1 on a v3 board...

i just cant wait to spend countless hours researching :(

Posted: October 14th, 2007, 10:54 pm
by K8Boosted
alright well i brought my father into this whole situation on managment..
he a electrical engineer who biulds and programs controllers for industrial machines so lets just say he definatly understands whats going on.
ive started reading through the megasquirt websites.. browsed around on probetalk...

as of now the plan mostly likly is run a remachined kl03with millenia s rods and megasquirt 1 on a v3 board...

i just cant wait to spend countless hours researching :(