What could it be? Where to look first??
So the clunking is only noticeable when I´m braking and turning at the same time. It´s somewhere in the right front wheel area. When going over bumps on a straight line, without braking - no clunking.
My first guess is - it´s got something to do with the brakes!
If anyone had a similar problem or can suggest me the checking order - it would be of great help!!
Thanks!
I am having that same issue... it's like when I am slowing to a red light I can hear it clunking as I brake... I'm not sure where to start either. Although I think in the past this has actually been an indication of the axle going bad? I haven't replaced those in a while...
Because it happens when braking on a turn, would suspect a worn axle CV (constant velocity) joint. If you are also experiencing a definite sensation of brake pedal shudder, then would suspect a worn wheel bearing. Otherwise, CV is top suspect.
If it's the CV joint, you might be able to spot a torn rubber CV boot on a visual insp and that would indicate loss of lubricant has ocurred at that joint location. However, an old CV joint can still wear out with the CV boot intact. my experience has been that it will gradually get worse and more noticeable under both the same conditions, and at other times over time if the CV joint is wearing out. Repair is to replace the 1/2 axle which will include a new CV joint and boot. Usually, a remanufactured 1/2 axle is installed.
well I started to work on this yesterday. I took off the rim and I noticed some grease all over the inside on the ball joint and axle and everthing behind the brake rotor. I went ahead and replaced the driver's side axle. Unfortunately this did not fix my problem. Although it's not creaking on the turns anymore.
When I am slowing to a stop I can feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal and here a clunk about once a turn of the wheel. I'm starting to suspect it may be my caliper slide going bad on the inside. Because all of that grease was not from the axle (there was no crack in the boot). I did notice a lot around the top slider boot.
I might just go ahead and get a new front left caliper.
OK so I went to the junkyard and got a used LF caliper. It looked to be in good shape and the speedo only read 90k so it's definately better than mine (260k). I went to take off my old caliper and there was some grease coming out of the top guide bolt boot. Both of the guide bolts would not move like they were frozen (I might go back and get the RF too since it probably wouldn't hurt) So I replaced the LF caliper and the braking was better but that was not the cause of the noise.
The cause of the noise was the front control arm bolt had worked it's way out about an inch!!! Good thing I caught this as soon as I did... so I just tightened that sucker down and guess what... NO more clunking! yay
I guess I just didn't tighten it down enough when I put the SRD bushings in...
ok, i definetly have this problem in my car. I stop at a section, wait for cars to open a space, and go. When i turn the steering wheel , it sounds as if my wheel as a broken stuff in it.
I am constantly replacing CV joint boots, is the MX3 prone to rip those ?
Well, for now replacing it will not do the trick, i must have a CV joint dead ... what do i need to look, to get it fixed ? i guess both front one's are dead or diying ...
K8 :: 136.8 bhp---160 nm---108.0 whp---118lbs/torque ET: 15.567 @ 136 kmh (84 mph)
"Racing a Honda is like being in the special Olympics, you may win, but in the end your still retarded."
I have this issue too. If I'm going slow, I hit the brakes somewhat hard and I hear a clunk/pop.. Its annoying as hell, I have 2 new cvs, 2 new wheel bearings, new balljoint and another caliper on the ps side where it seems to clunk.. What causes this?
I get this too. I think it's my control arm bushings, time will tell!
AZ-3 1498cc Turbo! EVO 8 turbo and manifold, 5 stud swap, SSR Type C, DIYPNP seq Megasquirt Mx-3 2.5 V6 Turbo 291 BHP 251 lbft @ 8psi - Retired due to rust and back at uni View Worklog
At first it was only on light deceleration, and then on all deceleration, and then all the time except acceleration, and THEN MY WHEEL FELL OFF! or very nearly.
Check stab links, all bolts, and drive in a tight circle in 1st gear, and accelerate and brake. Any of these may yeild the answer.
Take out the strut (not so hard) and try to spin the top plate. It should easily. The bearings up there are prone to rusting out and getting to be toasted.
Now with Moderator power!
Black '93 BP RS - wrecked, parted, scrapped.
Green GS - Sold.
Black GS - Summer DD/Race car - Fancy KLZE
Red GS - K8-ATX -> MTX-KLDE - Frakencar. Scrapped
White GS - Rusty. Parts. Scrapped
1997 BMW M3 - my summer baby
2002 BMW 325Xi - sold
2003 Forester Xti - EJ20K swapped. Feedback
heyy, these parts could fix my problem , right ?
help out guys
K8 :: 136.8 bhp---160 nm---108.0 whp---118lbs/torque ET: 15.567 @ 136 kmh (84 mph)
"Racing a Honda is like being in the special Olympics, you may win, but in the end your still retarded."
Ideally you'd want to locate the parts that may or may not have been in those boxes at some point. Then find somebody to install said parts, and hope that fixes your problem.
'96 Silver Stone Metallic MTX RS
'98 BMW 328is M-Tech
anybody else got any ideas??
-Jim
