Raising springs?
- OROutdoors
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Raising springs?
I read a lot of these messages. Most of these topics have to do with lowering the suspension. I'm wondering if anyone has a lead on springs that would fit the mx-3 (mine is '93 1.6L) and raise the height by 1-2". I would also appreciate them being a bit stiffer.
I'm preparing my mx-3 to be an amature Rally car. I would like to incease the ground clearance at the center of the car, increase the clearance between the top of the tire to the wheel well, reduce travel on small impact/bumps, and increase total wheel travel for big impacts. I suppose progressive springs may be a good thing to consider. The ground clearance can be increased by using bigger tires, and I intend to get slichtly biggher tires, but that would be at the expense of wheelwell clearance unless I raised the suspension. So, if anyone has some suggestions, I'd appreciate it. Thanks,
Eric
I'm preparing my mx-3 to be an amature Rally car. I would like to incease the ground clearance at the center of the car, increase the clearance between the top of the tire to the wheel well, reduce travel on small impact/bumps, and increase total wheel travel for big impacts. I suppose progressive springs may be a good thing to consider. The ground clearance can be increased by using bigger tires, and I intend to get slichtly biggher tires, but that would be at the expense of wheelwell clearance unless I raised the suspension. So, if anyone has some suggestions, I'd appreciate it. Thanks,
Eric
Oregon Outdoors
92 mx-3 GS lowered, CF hood
2013 Mazdaspeed3
92 mx-3 GS lowered, CF hood
2013 Mazdaspeed3
- PATDIESEL
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No such thing since the MX was never raced in rally (well more than a few anyway). The one I have seen used stock ride heigth. I'd make a skid plate, larger tires, progressive springs, camber plates and toughen up parts like end links and sway bar links.
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Thay have some thingies.. um they make the springs more higher. However not recommended for rally. i did it in my maxima and I hit a speed bump, the strut bent .. it did raise it a good 2 inches.
-hec
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
- papa roached
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might wanna talk to wazza on teameunos.com, he rallys his MX-3 (Eunos 30x)
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Parts needing installed: turbo kit from BB (if i ever get it), 9.0:1 CR Diamond pistons, 4340 forged H beam rods, C/J-Spec spoiler, Nissan red tops in KL rails
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- Yoda
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You have several options. The most common way to increase the suspension height with any of the 323 chassis cars (includes the MX-3) is to go to a coil over setup. Back when these cars were still in the showroom I knew of several teams that when this route with their 323, Protege, Escorts, Sephia and at least one MX-3.
When I raised one of my car I stayed with conventional springs. In the back I used aftermarket overload springs for a '96+ Escort SW in the back. The '95-'03 Escort rear springs are about 1" longer to begin with. The overload springs are much stiffer and don't compress as much as a std. spring. In the comfort coils of the spring I added spiral rubber spring "helpers" to firm up the softer coils if the spring. In the front I had several different setups. At first I used '93-'02 626/MX-6 strut mounts because that have the same mounting hole pattern except the 626 mount extends below the strut tower (spring hat is inverted) where as the 323/MX-3 extend above the strut tower (spring hat is conical). It will be necessary to sleeve the threaded shaft with a harden steel bushing because the 626 has a larger diameter thread. After I got a set of adjustable caster/ camber mounts (323) with urethane isolator bushings in place of the stock rubber I have to machine aluminum spacer plates for both the front and rear out of some scrap material out in the shop and replace the stock studs with longer grade 8 hardware. The company that made these mounts when out of business in 2003 but the spacer can be used with stock replacement mounts without any problem.
GAB also made complete ralley spring and strut kits for the 323 but this were discontinued back in 1998
If possible you will want the rear springs to be twice as stiff as the front for best handling whether or not you are making a street car or a ralley racer or a track car. Also for rally shift and much weight to the back as possible. I have seen more that a few FWD ralley car get a little to much air and nose plant on landing and do a lot of damage if they don't flip.
When I raised one of my car I stayed with conventional springs. In the back I used aftermarket overload springs for a '96+ Escort SW in the back. The '95-'03 Escort rear springs are about 1" longer to begin with. The overload springs are much stiffer and don't compress as much as a std. spring. In the comfort coils of the spring I added spiral rubber spring "helpers" to firm up the softer coils if the spring. In the front I had several different setups. At first I used '93-'02 626/MX-6 strut mounts because that have the same mounting hole pattern except the 626 mount extends below the strut tower (spring hat is inverted) where as the 323/MX-3 extend above the strut tower (spring hat is conical). It will be necessary to sleeve the threaded shaft with a harden steel bushing because the 626 has a larger diameter thread. After I got a set of adjustable caster/ camber mounts (323) with urethane isolator bushings in place of the stock rubber I have to machine aluminum spacer plates for both the front and rear out of some scrap material out in the shop and replace the stock studs with longer grade 8 hardware. The company that made these mounts when out of business in 2003 but the spacer can be used with stock replacement mounts without any problem.
GAB also made complete ralley spring and strut kits for the 323 but this were discontinued back in 1998
If possible you will want the rear springs to be twice as stiff as the front for best handling whether or not you are making a street car or a ralley racer or a track car. Also for rally shift and much weight to the back as possible. I have seen more that a few FWD ralley car get a little to much air and nose plant on landing and do a lot of damage if they don't flip.
- OROutdoors
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Coil-over thingies
So those coil-over thingies... do they come in plaid?hgallegos915 wrote:Thay have some thingies.. um they make the springs more higher. However not recommended for rally. i did it in my maxima and I hit a speed bump, the strut bent .. it did raise it a good 2 inches.
I considered coilovers, but the ones I've founs all say something like, "lowers the car 2-4" or "Lowers 0-4". The ones I've seen don't seem to be set up for raising the car, though I suppose it would be possible. Then again, I would wonder if the amount of vibration off-road might loosen the lock nuts, allowing one corner to lower and go out of alignment. Thanks for the suggestion, but I think I'll look for springs.
Hmm... has anone seen coil overs made for off-road vehicles off-road use? I'm sure they're made for lowering 4x4's for "street" mods. I've never seen off-road coilovers.
Oregon Outdoors
92 mx-3 GS lowered, CF hood
2013 Mazdaspeed3
92 mx-3 GS lowered, CF hood
2013 Mazdaspeed3
- neutral
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yeah, what he said. Yoda comes thru with the real deal info again.
Yoda wrote:You have several options. The most common way to increase the suspension height with any of the 323 chassis cars (includes the MX-3) is to go to a coil over setup. Back when these cars were still in the showroom I knew of several teams that when this route with their 323, Protege, Escorts, Sephia and at least one MX-3.
When I raised one of my car I stayed with conventional springs. In the back I used aftermarket overload springs for a '96+ Escort SW in the back. The '95-'03 Escort rear springs are about 1" longer to begin with. The overload springs are much stiffer and don't compress as much as a std. spring. In the comfort coils of the spring I added spiral rubber spring "helpers" to firm up the softer coils if the spring. In the front I had several different setups. At first I used '93-'02 626/MX-6 strut mounts because that have the same mounting hole pattern except the 626 mount extends below the strut tower (spring hat is inverted) where as the 323/MX-3 extend above the strut tower (spring hat is conical). It will be necessary to sleeve the threaded shaft with a harden steel bushing because the 626 has a larger diameter thread. After I got a set of adjustable caster/ camber mounts (323) with urethane isolator bushings in place of the stock rubber I have to machine aluminum spacer plates for both the front and rear out of some scrap material out in the shop and replace the stock studs with longer grade 8 hardware. The company that made these mounts when out of business in 2003 but the spacer can be used with stock replacement mounts without any problem.
GAB also made complete ralley spring and strut kits for the 323 but this were discontinued back in 1998
If possible you will want the rear springs to be twice as stiff as the front for best handling whether or not you are making a street car or a ralley racer or a track car. Also for rally shift and much weight to the back as possible. I have seen more that a few FWD ralley car get a little to much air and nose plant on landing and do a lot of damage if they don't flip.
-Jim
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no no these are not coil overs lol just brackets that make the spring higher.. not recommended for rally just for show hehe, autozone has em.
-hec
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
- Yoda
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Re: Coil-over thingies
Have you ever seen a dune buggy or a ATX or UTV? Then you have seen off-road coilovers. they are more common than you think for off road full-size truck and SUV if you follow off roading as well.OROutdoors wrote:So those coil-over thingies... do they come in plaid?hgallegos915 wrote:Thay have some thingies.. um they make the springs more higher. However not recommended for rally. i did it in my maxima and I hit a speed bump, the strut bent .. it did raise it a good 2 inches.
I considered coilovers, but the ones I've founs all say something like, "lowers the car 2-4" or "Lowers 0-4". The ones I've seen don't seem to be set up for raising the car, though I suppose it would be possible. Then again, I would wonder if the amount of vibration off-road might loosen the lock nuts, allowing one corner to lower and go out of alignment. Thanks for the suggestion, but I think I'll look for springs.
Hmm... has anone seen coil overs made for off-road vehicles off-road use? I'm sure they're made for lowering 4x4's for "street" mods. I've never seen off-road coilovers.
The best thing to do would to be like everyone else that rallies any of the 323 based cars and that is to make the coil over conversion kit yourself from off the shelf parts. There is several sources for threaded sleeves, adjusters, top hats, 2.5" springs , tender springs, etc. just that you have to look at shops that specialize in true performance cars and not "Tuner" cars. Chances are that you will be able to put together a kit with quality compensates for about the price of some of these cheap Asia imports if you shop carefully. All you have to do is select that length of spring and spring rate from Eibach, H&R, Hyperco, etc.
- Yoda
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It all comes down to experience gained probably before many of these guys were in grad school and having the first hand technical resources rather that rehashing info found somewhere on the net. It also helps that I have attended several suspension tuning and fabrications seminars put on by several of the suspension componant manufactures and that I have the resources to be able to experiment with different suspension combinations.
neutral wrote:yeah, what he said. Yoda comes thru with the real deal info again.Yoda wrote:You have several options. The most common way to increase the suspension height with any of the 323 chassis cars (includes the MX-3) is to go to a coil over setup. Back when these cars were still in the showroom I knew of several teams that when this route with their 323, Protege, Escorts, Sephia and at least one MX-3.
When I raised one of my car I stayed with conventional springs. In the back I used aftermarket overload springs for a '96+ Escort SW in the back. The '95-'03 Escort rear springs are about 1" longer to begin with. The overload springs are much stiffer and don't compress as much as a std. spring. In the comfort coils of the spring I added spiral rubber spring "helpers" to firm up the softer coils if the spring. In the front I had several different setups. At first I used '93-'02 626/MX-6 strut mounts because that have the same mounting hole pattern except the 626 mount extends below the strut tower (spring hat is inverted) where as the 323/MX-3 extend above the strut tower (spring hat is conical). It will be necessary to sleeve the threaded shaft with a harden steel bushing because the 626 has a larger diameter thread. After I got a set of adjustable caster/ camber mounts (323) with urethane isolator bushings in place of the stock rubber I have to machine aluminum spacer plates for both the front and rear out of some scrap material out in the shop and replace the stock studs with longer grade 8 hardware. The company that made these mounts when out of business in 2003 but the spacer can be used with stock replacement mounts without any problem.
GAB also made complete ralley spring and strut kits for the 323 but this were discontinued back in 1998
If possible you will want the rear springs to be twice as stiff as the front for best handling whether or not you are making a street car or a ralley racer or a track car. Also for rally shift and much weight to the back as possible. I have seen more that a few FWD ralley car get a little to much air and nose plant on landing and do a lot of damage if they don't flip.