stainless steel valves

SloGsr · Post by **SloGsr** » August 30th, 2006, 6:25 pm

I am currently rebuilding my 2.5 I need a good set of stainless steel valves but the only ones I could find are $28 U.S.D each!!! do the math thats over $600!!! any one know where I can get a quilty set cheeper? I looked and searched and I got nothin.

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » August 30th, 2006, 6:41 pm

Did you check Corksport? ProjectMX-3 just got a set for his BP there for $201 shipped.. and they were even oversized valves too. I dunno if they carry valves for the V6's or not.. but worth checking I would think. Good luck

Tunes67

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » August 30th, 2006, 6:53 pm

I'd have to question why you think you need stainless valves. Unless you're going turbo or supercharged, they are completely unnecessary. If the valves on your current heads still have good margin left, I'd leave them in and just polish the valve tops and combustion chamber with 300 grit Dremel buffs.

Ferrea are the only stainless valves I know available for our car. I think Flatlanderracing.com has them cheapest. Still like $22 each, so $500 still .... then don't forget the complete valve job you'd need to install new valves. You're looking at a $1,000 easy. A waste of money IMO. The heads I paid $120 for from the junkyard a couple months ago had a TON of valve margin left on them. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

SloGsr · Post by **SloGsr** » August 30th, 2006, 10:30 pm

I am doing a full race ready port and polish as well as a ton of bottom end work. I currently run nitrous and a turbo is in the works so I figured I would do it once the right way. I sold my Honda to finish this build so I do have a little extra money to spend but I just about pooped a purple dinosour when I herd $28 a valve. I thought maybe someone else has done it cheeper. thanks for the advice guys it is appreciated.

Mnemonic · Post by **Mnemonic** » August 30th, 2006, 11:46 pm

manley performance oversized are $21 custom, i know i've order 24 from them b4

SloGsr · Post by **SloGsr** » August 31st, 2006, 2:08 am

wow thats quite a bit cheeper!!! $168 to be exact. thanks alot!!!!

kiwi_MX3 · Post by **kiwi_MX3** » August 31st, 2006, 3:40 am

One thing to be noted,

The engine builder / machineshop that does my head work
not only recuts the valve seat but also true's up the new valves
as well, even brand spanking valves from the manufactors an't
quite right.

at 6 dollars nz per seat and valve, for the v6 thats a added $288
ive had to factor in, building the heads on these motors cost's a lot!

I did have the complete Ferra stuff priced up and it was Ekkk!

Mnemonic · Post by **Mnemonic** » August 31st, 2006, 4:39 am

agreed kiwi, my heads on my kf when i rebult them ended costing me right around 2500 after labor and cleaning, custom parts, p&p, 3angle

kiwi_MX3 · Post by **kiwi_MX3** » August 31st, 2006, 5:17 am

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/211008

Thats babyblues mx3, and he's running stock valves

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/361859

Mikes, and once again stock valves.

Me
Stock valves, custom retainers, steel locks and stronger springs

LooseChangeRacing · Post by **LooseChangeRacing** » August 31st, 2006, 9:15 am

I don't know if you guys know about this site, but it's where I found alot of the companies I will be using for the engine build..

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » August 31st, 2006, 12:15 pm

SloGsr wrote:I am doing a full race ready port and polish as well as a ton of bottom end work. I currently run nitrous and a turbo is in the works so I figured I would do it once the right way. I sold my Honda to finish this build so I do have a little extra money to spend but I just about pooped a purple dinosour when I herd $28 a valve. I thought maybe someone else has done it cheeper. thanks for the advice guys it is appreciated.

Honestly, port, polish, and 3 angle won't help as much as something else that you can do yourself ... deshrouding the valves. My last heads had 3 angle valve job when I bought them. I did port and polish with no bowl work. The head gasket went and I needed a set of heads while I could still drive the car with the bad heads. Got my junkyard heads and didn't have time for pulling valves. Decided to do all bowl work, with no P&P .... the complete opposite. Since I had a stock bore bottom end, I could only open up the intake valves because the exhaust are already too close to the head gasket to do anything but polish. So opened up the opening around the intake valve and deshrouded, then polished the ENTIRE face of the bowl including the valves (after decarbing the valve faces to metal).

The feel of the engine with desrouding is better than before with 3 angle and P&P. If you go to an oversized piston you can not only deshroud the intake valves a little more, but you can deshroud the exhaust valves some. This is work you can do on your own with a Dremel tool. Just tape off the entire deck of the head, and do the work BEFORE you take it in to be decked by the machine shop. This will save you over $2000 doing new valves and headwork and crap, and will yield better gains for this particular engine. If you'vr gpt the money for custom pistons, I'd recommend going up to .100" overbore.

Mnemonic · Post by **Mnemonic** » August 31st, 2006, 1:45 pm

agree with lakersfan, when i did the work i was expecting some decent numbers from my setup, instead i was just hitting a little over the stock numbers. But i was prepairing the motor to go turbo, so the work i did would of helped it after i had taken it further

SloGsr · Post by **SloGsr** » August 31st, 2006, 11:40 pm

I understand that I won't benifiet from mods like this in a day to day drive but I'm looking at it like this: I haven't had the motor in the car in about 16 months. and now that I have the extra money I dont want to take it apart again and have more down time. I kow it will cost me more right now, and the performance gains are minimal, they are also alot stronger and they are going to stand up to abuse much better for much longer. I ran Nitrous through my old build which was mild with port match and 3 angle valve job and here I am 22,000 miles later with another rebuild. also I can oversize up to 1mm bigger which might help in the long run? I guess the dyno will have to prove that one though. I am going to see my machinest tomorrow so I will be able to bring up these points and suggestions. I do appreciate all the help more than I can express and I look forward to any advice I come across in the future.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » September 1st, 2006, 12:28 am

1mm oversize valve just has 1mm on the head. It does not open up the size of the port where the stem comes through. If you're running nitrous, I'd just do what I said, but then get the combustion chambers with valves in them coated with ceramic. That should take care of any heat issues assuming you tune it with enough fuel to counter the nitrous.

kiwi_MX3 · Post by **kiwi_MX3** » September 1st, 2006, 6:15 pm

SloGsr wrote:I understand that I won't benifiet from mods like this in a day to day drive but I'm looking at it like this: I haven't had the motor in the car in about 16 months. and now that I have the extra money I dont want to take it apart again and have more down time. I kow it will cost me more right now, and the performance gains are minimal, they are also alot stronger and they are going to stand up to abuse much better for much longer. I ran Nitrous through my old build which was mild with port match and 3 angle valve job and here I am 22,000 miles later with another rebuild. also I can oversize up to 1mm bigger which might help in the long run? I guess the dyno will have to prove that one though. I am going to see my machinest tomorrow so I will be able to bring up these points and suggestions. I do appreciate all the help more than I can express and I look forward to any advice I come across in the future.

Ok, question

Why are you rebuilding? loss of compression or a burnt out vavle?
Nitrous motors do not last, i can tell you that from experince, im
suprised you have'nt popped a piston as the pistons and rods are the
weak link in this motor.

Also bowl work gains a HELL of a lot more in this motor than port work.
on a stock size piston you can't do much but im up to a 87mm.

One of the major things that we did do, was free flow the cooling system
on the motor to prevent "knock"