Turbo and Nitrous

93_4Banger · Post by **93_4Banger** » August 14th, 2006, 8:06 pm

Is there any major disadvantage of running both of these?

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » August 14th, 2006, 8:37 pm

You mean besides the utter devestation that can occur if you do something wrong?

Tunes67

cjthor · Post by **cjthor** » August 14th, 2006, 11:44 pm

Tunes67 wrote:You mean besides the utter devestation that can occur if you do something wrong?

Tunes67

Utter devestation can occur even with just one of those items. It comes down to tuning! I dont think a lil 50 shot starting at 2000 RPM to help spool wouldnt hurt. Even the cooling of the nitrous in the intake system would help.

Josh · Post by **Josh** » August 15th, 2006, 12:54 am

thats what im doing. well eventually. i have the NOS kit, and a manifold made up with direct port. if you do it you want to run a WET kit, as it will inject fuel and nos at the same time. a lot safer than a dry kit. im going to be running direct port NOS with 4, 80 shots. should be a nice kick in the pants over the the 2.0 bp with stage 5 racing cams i just finnished. it all comes down to tunning, and i cant express that enough, tunning is everything

BuGS · Post by **BuGS** » August 15th, 2006, 3:34 am

Josh wrote:thats what im doing. well eventually. i have the NOS kit, and a manifold made up with direct port. if you do it you want to run a WET kit, as it will inject fuel and nos at the same time. a lot safer than a dry kit. im going to be running direct port NOS with 4, 80 shots. should be a nice kick in the pants over the the 2.0 bp with stage 5 racing cams i just finnished. it all comes down to tunning, and i cant express that enough, tunning is everything

Oh, so does that mean you are actually gonna go dyno tune this time around

93_4Banger · Post by **93_4Banger** » August 15th, 2006, 7:00 am

alright, i was just gunna run a 50 shot so i think thats what im going to do also, and tuning will be enforced since im trying to find somewhere to get me self a Haltech.

Limegreen mx-3 · Post by **Limegreen mx-3** » August 15th, 2006, 11:13 pm

Josh wrote:thats what im doing. well eventually. i have the NOS kit, and a manifold made up with direct port. if you do it you want to run a WET kit, as it will inject fuel and nos at the same time. a lot safer than a dry kit. im going to be running direct port NOS with 4, 80 shots. should be a nice kick in the pants over the the 2.0 bp with stage 5 racing cams i just finnished. it all comes down to tunning, and i cant express that enough, tunning is everything

hope u have a good mangement and hope it holds up to what u plan on doing. better not be some U greddy e-manage i hopes NOT. good luck on what ur trying to do. i see ur doing SDS simple good enough seen a 79+ selby making at least over 1000hp on a SDS frecky

JWMotorsports · Post by **JWMotorsports** » August 17th, 2006, 9:39 pm

Wet nitrous isn't safer than dry or vice versa on their own. The most acurate way is dry nitrous with a EMS that specializes in Nitrous injection controll coupled with the correct fuel system. For example...the Accel DFI Gen 7+ is THE best EMS system I've seen when running nitrous on top of everything else. Not only does it give you target AFR tables and timing tables for 3 stages of Nitrous control, but it also asks you what size jets, how many nozzles, when to start injection (I belive it can also be programmed for progressive control as well with the DFI techs help) when to end injection along with engine saver whis automatically shuts of Nitrous if the engine leans out past the USER specified point. This is very important because not every engine is the same when resisting knock. It depends on combustion chamber design, fuel type, compression, etc... The other EMS that is good at it is the AEM. These require a Wide Band O2 sensor input to run target AFRs and you'ld be a fool to use a Narrow Band O2 sensor in that application! Another place people REALLY screw up is that they rely on ONLY the Wide Band AFRs.....this is bad! You need to know EGTs in addition to the AFRs to see what the engine is really doing. It alerts you to when your about to MELT the engine BEFORE you do! The AFR you shoot for is NOT the same for every car and is NOT the same for every operating point. Example...at wide open throttle the AFR should NOT stay the same through the power band and should NOT continue getting richer as rpms go up!!!!! Your RICHEST AFR should be at your peak torque and then should LEAN out gradually all the way to the red line. Turbo cars are usually around 12.0-12.4 AFR at peak torque and the lean out gradually to 12.4-13.1ish AFR....Note! This GREAT depends on fuel and timing settings. The drastically affect each other! A simi safe peak EGT at WOT for short times (drag racing or blast through the gears a few times) is around 1600*F at the turbine outlet. My car crusing down the interstate is around the 1000*F mark at the turbine outlet (the old motor took this for over 10,000miles with no damage or even signs of damage from the heat!).

Now go forth....boost...spray...and WHOP @$$