How to install a camber bolt?

1992blazeredgs · Post by **1992blazeredgs** » May 21st, 2006, 2:21 pm

I understand the whole concept behind the camber bolt, and how it corrents negative camber after lowering. But where does the camber bolt get installed to, and how does it accomplish reducing negative camber since it is merely a bolt?

Nate

JWMX3 · Post by **JWMX3** » May 21st, 2006, 3:17 pm

replaces the upper strut to hub bolt

I has a lobe on it, when rotated, changes the angle of the strut

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » May 21st, 2006, 7:21 pm

JWMX3 wrote:replaces the upper strut to hub bolt

I has a lobe on it, when rotated, changes the angle of the strut

The more popular version has an offset in the center, and you rotate the head to change the angle of incidence of the strut to the hub. MOOG's version is just a smaller upper bolt that allows an extra degree of wiggle at the top.

jschrauwen · Post by **jschrauwen** » May 21st, 2006, 11:09 pm

JWMX3 wrote:replaces the upper strut to hub bolt
I has a lobe on it, when rotated, changes the angle of the strut

Some have a movable lobe while others have a fixed one. Usually only one bolt is needed up top but if the severity of the negative camber is such, then a second bolt can be used on the lower part of the strut to increase the angle of incidence needed.

JWMX3 · Post by **JWMX3** » May 22nd, 2006, 12:48 am

interesting, i didnt realize there were different types of camber bolts... the kind i described are eibach bolts fyi

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » May 22nd, 2006, 3:19 pm

The Moog style is like this:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 29&ptset=A
The wedge you jam in between the strut and hub to measure the gap. Each notch on that wedge is 1/2 degree of camber I believe. When it's dialed in, you tighten down the smaller nut.

The Eibach style is like this:
http://www.automotiveconcepts.net/store ... r_325b.jpg
Depending on which way the notch on that washer is facing, that'll change if it's adding or subtracting camber. Not sure if the camber changes because of the lip on the inner radius on the washer or because of an offset in that thicker center portion.

slimmyslim1420 · Post by **slimmyslim1420** » May 23rd, 2006, 4:10 pm

lakersfan1 wrote:The Moog style is like this:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 29&ptset=A
The wedge you jam in between the strut and hub to measure the gap. Each notch on that wedge is 1/2 degree of camber I believe. When it's dialed in, you tighten down the smaller nut.

The Eibach style is like this:
http://www.automotiveconcepts.net/store ... r_325b.jpg
Depending on which way the notch on that washer is facing, that'll change if it's adding or subtracting camber. Not sure if the camber changes because of the lip on the inner radius on the washer or because of an offset in that thicker center portion.

How many total degrees can you add or subtract with the Moog style bolt? The Eibach only gives you 1.75 degrees

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » May 23rd, 2006, 4:33 pm

slimmyslim1420 wrote:
How many total degrees can you add or subtract with the Moog style bolt? The Eibach only gives you 1.75 degrees

1.75 degrees should be plenty for any lowering springs available on our car. Stock specs allow up to 1.5 degrees inward tilt at the top. So your wheels would have to be tilting in over 3.25 degrees for the Eibach not to work. Actually, for the front, you can turn the strut mount 180 degrees for another half degree of correction, so you'd have to be almost 4 degrees off in the front for your Eibach camber bolts to not work.

slimmyslim1420 · Post by **slimmyslim1420** » May 23rd, 2006, 10:02 pm

lakersfan1 wrote:
slimmyslim1420 wrote:
How many total degrees can you add or subtract with the Moog style bolt? The Eibach only gives you 1.75 degrees
1.75 degrees should be plenty for any lowering springs available on our car. Stock specs allow up to 1.5 degrees inward tilt at the top. So your wheels would have to be tilting in over 3.25 degrees for the Eibach not to work. Actually, for the front, you can turn the strut mount 180 degrees for another half degree of correction, so you'd have to be almost 4 degrees off in the front for your Eibach camber bolts to not work.

Well my camber is within spec but the tires still lean in a little, and I was basically wondering if that would be alright and not cause premature tire wear.

verzutiko · Post by **verzutiko** » May 24th, 2006, 8:54 am

I am in the process of lowering my car, and I have to buy this bolt to change the camber, correct? If I don't buy it and adjust my settings, I will have premature tire wear?

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » May 24th, 2006, 9:41 am

verzutiko wrote:I am in the process of lowering my car, and I have to buy this bolt to change the camber, correct? If I don't buy it and adjust my settings, I will have premature tire wear?

Like said, it depends. Sometimes you can get back to Mazda spec without the bolt. All depends on the car and the spring you use.

JWMX3 · Post by **JWMX3** » May 24th, 2006, 11:55 am

I thought it was just incorrect toe that will tear up your tires.... neg. camber will wear the tires at a normal rate, just more so on the inner tread, right ? thats not premature wear, just uneven....

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » May 24th, 2006, 12:26 pm

JWMX3 wrote:I thought it was just incorrect toe that will tear up your tires.... neg. camber will wear the tires at a normal rate, just more so on the inner tread, right ? thats not premature wear, just uneven....

It's premature if it completely wears one side of the tire bald, while the other side still has tread. Incorrect toe will not wear evenly, either. Depending if it's toe in or out, it will wear either the inside or outside moreso than the other side.