SRD Front Cross member

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Spotted
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Joined: October 21st, 2003, 2:01 am
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL USA

SRD Front Cross member

Post by Spotted »

Hey.
I just came from SRD's web site just to look at the front cross member. They still say that they are in developement of one for a 4 cylinder car.
My Question:
Has anyone gotten this to work on their 4 banger? Has anyone come up with another solution for this ting? What is the difference between the 6 and the 4? It is the same chasis right? So what gives.
OR
Do I only need a strut tower bar on top and nothing underneath? Will it help at all?
Thanks
:welder:
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PATDIESEL
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Post by PATDIESEL »

An upper strut bar will help. However, a cross member will improve the handeling even further by adding rigidity to the motor cradle.

The 4 bangers use a different suspension subframe that does not have the holes drilled or tapped for the cross member. Luke would have to develop a way to attach the cross member to an exhisting set of holes somewhere. However, I have no idea where he could find to attach them since from what I've seen of a 4 banger there just isn't a place to attach it without making your own holes.
Image
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
Spotted
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Posts: 193
Joined: October 21st, 2003, 2:01 am
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL USA

Post by Spotted »

So, if I made my own holes and figured ou a way to bolt them on, there would be no problem? Where would I make the holes? I looked at the picture on their web site, but I am not really clear as to where the bar attaches.
Thanks
:welder:
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PATDIESEL
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Post by PATDIESEL »

It goes from the sub frame on one side to the same spot on the other side. Makingyour own holes is goina be a PITA and you will only get one try. After you have drilled if they are off then you have to weld the holes back shut, grind it back flat and try again. I don't know if the filled holes will be strong enough after you weld them. (that is unles you are a good welder and do not burn the metal and get a good deep fill)
If it is right on then tap the holes for a 14mm bolt (not sure of the thread pitch, but measure a stock Mazda 14mm to get it). Then, of course, let us know how it went.
If it doesn't work out you can always sell the crossmember to a V-6 guy.
Image
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
lstpier
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Post by lstpier »

Subframe is not thick enough in that area for threads to support the 100lbs of torque the bolts should see (V6's holes are done using a blind fasteners or inserts). There is no access to use blind fasteners on the RS model :(

Suggested to a few guys to weld 4 threaded studs (1/2"x13pitch should do fine) and use nuts to secure the Xmember. 2 of them are (were?) MX-3.com members, were offered a great deal on the part granted they provided a write-up and pictures. Never received anything back from them. Could offer a discount (applicable on a second order this time!) for someone willing to document the install.
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PATDIESEL
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Post by PATDIESEL »

I'll offer that to the MOCA guys if it is ok. I'd bet one would take you up on that and it would make a fun project for some of our Thursday meets.
Image
ZE -strait neck,headers,2.5 exhaust,pheno spacers,lower cross member,GC coils,MS struts,Brembo slotted rotors,filled MS mounts,SS brake/clutch lines, CAI,to rear bat reloc,Hella headlamps,Hella DE fogs 180WHP
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