rear brake pads
rear brake pads
Hello, well i replaced my rear brake pads this past sunday and I was wondering how much trouble you guys normally have with this process. I know it should be alittle difficult to get the newer thicker pads on, but when i had to go get a c-clap just to try and keep the darn thing open so i could squeeze the pads in...and then had to pry them apart with screwdrivers enough to just barely get them started down over the disc...i began to worry. Anyways i finally got them on, and when i go to take it for a little test drive, i notice that the brakes are super tight. Tight enough to keep the car from rolling down my driveway, which it normally does. Anyways i figured they were just tight, new pads and that they would wear down some and be fine, so i drove around the block a few times and they seemed to loosen up to where its not noticible that thier rubbing. However it is now thursday and my E-brake light is still on, on my dash. It goes otu everyonce in awhile like down hills and such. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas as to why the pads are sooo tight and what to do about all this?
- PATDIESEL
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Do you have someone who can help you that knows about brakes? (older and moe experienced)
First, it sounds like you did not compress the caliper. Do this by turning the caliper piston (clockwise I think) and it will recess back into the caliper to make the pads easier to fit back over the rotor.
Second, you need to flush the brake fluid every time you cheange pads and you didn't say that you have done it.
Third, if your brake light comes on and goes off you need to check your brake fluid level. That light tells you when the fluid is low. Going down a hill moves the fluid over the sensor and it turns the light off for a second.
First, it sounds like you did not compress the caliper. Do this by turning the caliper piston (clockwise I think) and it will recess back into the caliper to make the pads easier to fit back over the rotor.
Second, you need to flush the brake fluid every time you cheange pads and you didn't say that you have done it.
Third, if your brake light comes on and goes off you need to check your brake fluid level. That light tells you when the fluid is low. Going down a hill moves the fluid over the sensor and it turns the light off for a second.
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As i said, i tried to compress the cylinder on the caliper. I used a C-clamp with the brake lines open so that i could squeeze the caliper back. I didnt know there was a way to turn it so it would compress. Also, yes i did flush the brake fluid and i added new brake fluid afterwards. I will have to check it again tomorrow morning to make sure that it is still full because i did not check the day after or anything, even though i should have. I also did have my father come out and try to help after about 30 minutes of struggling to get the caliper with new pads back over the rotor. He couldnt think of anything else either and hes been changing his own brake pads and doing routine maitinece since he was my age. So thats why i was wondering if anyone had any ideas or is expiriencing this?
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I rented a nice caliper compressor from autozone and it took me around 15 mins to do both sides. I didnt bleed em..
-hec
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!