A/F gauge questions

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hgallegos915
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A/F gauge questions

Post by hgallegos915 »

Im not bossted or even modded alot but I would want an a/f gauge to be able to tell if engine is running rich or lean. I think its running lean because it lags at high rpms, also well its a nice tool to have. I saw the ones on ebay, but well how much do they usually run for? I looked for an adjustable fprmbut well i dont need it. I just ned gauge and maybe a fuel psi reading. Mosty important a/f gauge/
-hec

MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
precidian
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Post by precidian »

Autometer has decent A/F gauges.. I personally have the cobalt series gauge...
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babyblueMX3
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Post by babyblueMX3 »

they usually run for around 30$
I used to have a autometer ultral lite series
RIP 400whp ZE-T MX-3
Current car : Golf 01 GTI 1.8T (15 psi)
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JYOUNYA1
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Post by JYOUNYA1 »

precidian, how do you have your A/F gauge wired...Mine is not working at all?
93 MX-3 GS 1.8 Liter V6 Teal Mods: Pace (Maker) Setter Custom Catback/ Phantom Auto Meters: Voltage/ Water temp, Air/Fuel (in which not one gauge except voltage works) / Custom piece of s*** intake / 17" RacingHart Z5000 wrap in Khumos that are dry rotten / Altezza Tail lamps/ Custom Black interior (still in the works)/reverse indiglo gauges/ Push Button Starter/ Viper alarm with Proximity sensor/ Brembo slotted and dimpled rotors/ rear hatch shade/ Pioneer Premier DEH-840MP, ,2 custome fitted 6"inch pioneer door speakers, 1 Pioneer Premier 200 watt amp
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babyblueMX3
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Post by babyblueMX3 »

I had mine hooked up like this :

12v from cig lighter light
ground on the chassis
and signal from the stock 02 sensor tapped at the ecu
RIP 400whp ZE-T MX-3
Current car : Golf 01 GTI 1.8T (15 psi)
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jschrauwen
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Post by jschrauwen »

Of course the readings achieved from a (NB) narrowband input will not be as accute as they would be if a (WB) wideband O2 / lambda was used. There are a number of WB sources out there that have gauges associated with them. Very acccurate readings are achieved from these units. Of course there's an extra cost too. Try a search under O2 for a start for info in that direction..
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precidian
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Post by precidian »

12v from a swtiched source.. Also have the backlight come on when the lights are turned on.
ground on chassis
wire soldered to connector by ecu

I am swtiching my gauges to nexus series... and they do not have an A/F meter in that series... I have found a wideband A/F meter that I want to get. Cost is $500 US for the kit..
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hgallegos915
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Post by hgallegos915 »

so its better if i tap from the ecu right? because well if i tap front senosr it will tell me if mjy front cylinders are rich? whnaty about rear? I think rear is running a bit richer..can that even be possible?
-hec

MX-3 w/ curved neck millenia klde, boosted @ 5 psi. /bov and wastegate are good!/ nitto drag radial/ gutted interior/ millenia red top injectors, vortech fmu/aem wideband/ all bolts ons/ Car put together 100% by me. Mechanic? who needs a mechanic? ew.. real men work on their own cars!
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FIMotorMX-3
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Post by FIMotorMX-3 »

Depending on where you are mounting your gauges, there is a fairly convenient power source right behind you gauge cluster. Remove your gauge cluster and look on the back, there are little screws that are located on the board that are labeled (-) and (+). You can use those for your power and ground. As for the sending wire, I just tapped into the blue wire on my rear o2 sensor, although you may get a more accurate reading from the ecu. I also have my shift light wired to the back of the gauge cluster using the wiring off my stock tach. I'm only using a summitracing a/f and oil press. and a nordskog water temp. I will possibly change them out to get autometer or defi. Not too sure how accurate the summits are.
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