klze rev issue

MI-Archangel · Post by **MI-Archangel** » April 5th, 2006, 2:02 am

Basically I got the ze ecu, the engine, the harness and a great act clutch. Never had any problems the first year. All of the sudden I had an issue. I would be sitting idle and my car would rev to 4000rpms and stay there i would have to restart the car... or ill be driving and ill feel a jump, Or ill be sitting idle and it will go up down up down up down restarting usually fixes it for awhile. Can you guys please help me I don't trust any local mechanics & it is embarassing people think im a ricer.

slimmyslim1420 · Post by **slimmyslim1420** » April 5th, 2006, 6:13 am

You could start off by looking for possible vacuum leaks. Then check your VAF of MAF whichever you have(I didn't look) and make sure it is in good condition. After that you could check your TPS and ISC and make sure the tps is adjusted correctly and they are both still good.You could also check around on here by doing a search under idle, as it seems many ZE owners have had an idle problem at some point. I know there are many discussions on the subject. What all maintanance have you done on the car lately?

Also wanted to ask do you have any power problems with this or is it all just your idle?

ccreech · Post by **ccreech** » April 5th, 2006, 8:32 am

HAHAHA! This is a TPS Issue. I laugh because I know of which you speak. Foot off the gas and the car revs from nothing to 3-4 grand as you are trying to leave a crowded movie parking lot. Man, I got some looks. So I just went with it and started bobing my head and Throwing West Side around like I was the guy in Offspring's Pretty Fly (For a white guy) Video. My Girlfriend was mortified, but my friend and I were laughing so hard that I thought I was gonna pee myself.

You are not alone, another MOCA member (CHANKO) had this problem too. I tried to reset My TPS several times and it would keep doing it. When you drive it and let off the gas does it buck/shake the car? Does it do the same thing when you get back on the gas? If so your car is doing exactly the same thing that mine did and I tried everything. We even broke out the manual and tried to reset the TPS with feeler gauges and that whole deal. Nothing worked. So just for shits I replaced the Tps...set it by hand and it has ran right ever since.

(The car should be warm when you do this)
It is a super simple fix:
Remove the old TPS.
Reinstall the New TPS leaving it just loose enough so that you can still turn it.
Jump TEN and GRND in your Diagnostic Box.
Turn the key ON but do not crank.
Turn the TPS until the Radiator Fan cuts on. Then turn it back just a hair. The Idea is to have it positioned just before it makes contact. Get it as close as you can.
Then tighten down the two screws without allowing the TPS to move.
Turn the Key to Off
Remove the Jumper Wire
Enjoy!

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » April 5th, 2006, 10:47 am

Chris is probably right. We did have a nightmare of a time getting his TPS to work. He also didn't mention that we check the resistance in the TPS and it seemed fine by factory specs. (wierd)

It could also be a vaccum leak as that will cause idle increases and jumpy idle too.

ccreech · Post by **ccreech** » April 5th, 2006, 11:05 am

Jumpy idle is fluctuating between a range of about a couple hundred RPM though. Mine would Rev to 4,000 RPM from Idle like I was romping the gas. And not just once...Continually....Vroooom, Vroooom, Vroooom... You get the idea. Then sometimes it would just stay reving that high...and I could not get it to stop. This still confuses me though because I don't see how it could rev that high without oxygen. My only guess is the TPS messed up and pinched the throttle body into an open position.

XxantwawnxX · Post by **XxantwawnxX** » April 5th, 2006, 12:47 pm

When i had fluctuaitnig idle it was my IAC..i just switch TB's and it fixed.

ccreech · Post by **ccreech** » April 5th, 2006, 1:21 pm

Switching TBs would also switch TPS's could have been that too. Just Saying.

MI-Archangel · Post by **MI-Archangel** » April 5th, 2006, 7:30 pm

where can i get a new tps

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » April 5th, 2006, 9:07 pm

same here

except i replace the iac and everything was good..no moer fluctuating idle

yay

XxantwawnxX · Post by **XxantwawnxX** » April 5th, 2006, 9:18 pm

ccreech wrote:Switching TBs would also switch TPS's could have been that too. Just Saying.

IT was not the TPS for me, i switched it over and used the same TPS : )

MI-Archangel · Post by **MI-Archangel** » April 5th, 2006, 11:32 pm

so what am I going to do?

XxantwawnxX · Post by **XxantwawnxX** » April 5th, 2006, 11:41 pm

Id say check out the TPS and IAC orrr get a whole TB from a junkyard that has a TPS and IAC on it. You can test the TPS and IAC first and explore other options before buying anything.

ccreech · Post by **ccreech** » April 6th, 2006, 8:43 am

Yeah I would say J-yard is your best bet because a TPS will run you at least $150 even at Advance or a similar parts store.

That is interesting. I don't think I fooled with my IAC when I fixed my issue. But who knows we may have adjusted the IAC screw.

ninjajim4 · Post by **ninjajim4** » April 6th, 2006, 4:27 pm

would unplugging the IAC altogether not help you determine if that is the source of the problem? IE if disconnecting it corrects your idle, then you know you have a bad IAC?

hgallegos915 · Post by **hgallegos915** » April 6th, 2006, 5:02 pm

If you unplug your IAC the engine rpms go so low that it will stall at red lights, you would need to upen the accel screw all the way up and plus an annoying "butane gas leak" sound would come from the engine. Gas milleage would suck... Sometimes the IAC unit will NOT trow codes..i ran a bad one ..i know it was bad because it was MELTED (fire) and had no codes..