DE wont start

JWMX3 · Post by **JWMX3** » March 21st, 2006, 9:20 pm

Trying to get my rebuild started for 3 days and it wont go.. the timing was off originaly but I fixed it and checked it 14 times since, the marks are all right on.... its getting spark too, and after i got my dead battery out of there it turns over good and sounds like its almost starting but wont go

Im not sure what else to check, If i had bad gas in the tank would that keep it from staarting ? I thought it would start but run like crap if that was the case..... im lost dont know where to look next

precidian · Post by **precidian** » March 21st, 2006, 10:09 pm

make sure all the grounds are connected...

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » March 21st, 2006, 10:27 pm

You arent gonna like this man... but if you have fuel and if you have spark.. that leaves only 1 thing.. Timing.. I know you have already checked your cams & cam gears.. try doing a compression test and see what kind of numbers you get.. if your numbers are 190+ then your timing can be eliminated as a issue. But if your compression numbers are lower than that on a fresh rebuild.. your cam timing is off. Hope this helps.

Tunes67

2RotorsNaDream · Post by **2RotorsNaDream** » March 21st, 2006, 11:34 pm

I had this problem after I first installed my DE on my old MX3. Check the knock sensor if you took out the motor or anything. If you didnt take out the motor or disconnect anything then it may be grounds. Theyre more important than alot of people take them for. Make your own set out of speaker wire. Any color you want too.

Grants · Post by **Grants** » March 22nd, 2006, 12:42 am

but if you have fuel and if you have spark.. that leaves only 1 thing.. Timing..

Plus air....

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » March 22nd, 2006, 1:03 am

Nah.. air is a given.. it may not run right if the MAF wasnt hooked up or if the TPS was outta whack.. but it would still light up.

Tunes67

Macen · Post by **Macen** » March 22nd, 2006, 4:39 am

Add some more ground points. I hade the same problem with my DE.

JWMX3 · Post by **JWMX3** » March 22nd, 2006, 8:15 am

All my grounds are hooked up

I'll check the compression first, and maybe add a couple grounding points after

my tps reads .5 closed and 3.7 wot

timpronk · Post by **timpronk** » March 22nd, 2006, 9:33 am

Fuel lines switched around?

schuttie2002 · Post by **schuttie2002** » March 22nd, 2006, 11:24 am

I had a similar problem with my swap as well. Mine would start, but it was flooding itself with wayyyy too much fuel, and had the roughest idle. I had the fuel pressure regulator vaccum lines mixed up. mess around with those and see what happens. Other than that, see if u can get any codes.

JWMX3 · Post by **JWMX3** » March 22nd, 2006, 2:16 pm

Tunes67 wrote:You arent gonna like this man... but if you have fuel and if you have spark.. that leaves only 1 thing.. Timing.. I know you have already checked your cams & cam gears.. try doing a compression test and see what kind of numbers you get.. if your numbers are 190+ then your timing can be eliminated as a issue. But if your compression numbers are lower than that on a fresh rebuild.. your cam timing is off. Hope this helps.

Tunes67

I was praying you were wrong

2 - 200
4- 200
6- 200

1- 0
3- 0
5- 0

my rear cams are wrong somehow.... at tdc the dowel pins on the cam lines right up with the head mark....

Also my plugs had gas on them, im guessing just from cranking it so much and not starting right ?

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » March 22nd, 2006, 3:37 pm

Also my plugs had gas on them, im guessing just from cranking it so much and not starting right ?

Yup.

As for the cam timing.. I dont have much practical experience with the cams in these V6 motors yet. But that should change this weekend. Likely you will have it all figured out before I get done changing the timing belt on my GS.

Here is a old trick I like to do.. First remove your valve cover. Then remove the spark plugs (if you have put them back). Then put a long flat head screw driver down the #1 cylinder letting it rest on top of the piston. **IMPORTANT** Make sure the screw driver does NOT bind on anything during the following steps. Now hand crank the motor over till your crank timing mark lines up at TDC. The screw driver should also have raised all the way up to the pistons highest point, if it didnt.. you need to go once more around. You can then look at your valve positions. If your cams are correct.. you will find that both the exaust and intake valves will be closed.. if they arent (and right now for you they wont be) You can then remove your timing belt and know which way the cams will need to be turned in order for the valves to be closed.

Are the intake and exaust cams the same cam for the KL31 cams? Just differently located cam gears?

Hope you get this resolved soon man

Cheers

Tunes67

JWMX3 · Post by **JWMX3** » March 22nd, 2006, 8:07 pm

I think i have a bigger problem then cam timing.... i pulled off the IM and VC expecting the friction gear marks to be off but they arent, all the valves ARE closed, the cams are installed correctly,friction gear marks line up, and #1 is at TDC
as i see it everything is perfect

edit- ya the cams are the same, front exhaust has the timing pulley and the rear intake has timing pulley

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » March 22nd, 2006, 8:24 pm

Gonna have to pull the cams to see what is going on there.. you did remember to put all the lifters back in right? I know dumb question but at this stage anything is possible.

Tunes67

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » March 22nd, 2006, 8:27 pm

Take some pics man.. let me see what you are seeing.

Tunes67