brake upgrade...not

mitmaks · Post by **mitmaks** » March 4th, 2006, 11:30 pm

Alright, I decided to install my stainless steel lines on mx3 today and also change rear pads. So I went bought some fluid dot 3, some pads, (stupid clerk gave me front ones instead or rear ones, glad I found some rear ones laying in storage) So I changed pads, then did lines. Finished up when it was dark, cousin had to hold flashlight so I could bleed the brakes.
I go for test drive only to notice theres rubbing noise on right front side. And my brakes feel real soft and kinda spongy. So much for stainless steel lines. Also put in speed bleeders. I used like quart to bleed them, guess I should bleed them some more. Also this noise wont go away, its like rubbing/clunking noise. I feel upset now, gonna go sleep. Hopefully will feel more enthusiastic tomorrow.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » March 5th, 2006, 9:20 am

I've always felt stainless was a bit of a waste. It's usually a matter of finding the right pads. I just changed my pads from Raybestos' supposedly best pads, which I had to slam on the brakes to get any stoppage, and I couldn't lock them up. Found some Satisfied Pro Perform ap. Now I barely rest my foot on the brake and I'm already slowing down. I lock up the brakes with the brake only halfway down. And to think, the Pro Performs are Satisfied's second cheapest pad. I can only imagine what the more expensive pads for our cars would do.

If you can lock up your brakes, you've got as much stopping power as you can get. Why bother with stainless?

mitmaks · Post by **mitmaks** » March 5th, 2006, 4:25 pm

I had most of the fluid drained, as I was changing lines. I hear thats bad for master cylinder. And also I heard its no big deal. What do I do? I heard I need to bench bleed master cylinder.

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » March 5th, 2006, 5:58 pm

How much did you bleed through the system? When I did a bleed of mine with speed bleeders, I put like 4 bottles through the system.

Also, make sure you're bleeding in the correct order. I believe you're supposed to do the rear passenger, front driver, rear driver, front passenger. Then, after that, I'd go back and do it all over again to make sure all the air is out.

Also with the rubbing, does it sound like the dust shield or anything like that? If the pedal is spongy, I doubt it's the pads making the noise.

Also, every time I take the wheels off, I usually push the caliper piston out some, lube it, and reassemble the brakes.

mitmaks · Post by **mitmaks** » March 6th, 2006, 1:33 am

well I took all the wheels off and rebled whole system. Noise turned out to be brake line rubbing on inside of the wheel. Good that I fixed that. Ive rebled whole system and now brakes feel pretty firm and car stops amazingly. At least much better than with rubber lines. And speed bleeders help out a lot too.
I only regret that I didnt go with most expensive pads. I guess car enthusiasts and women agree on one thing "get the best pads"

Also I'll try dot 4 fluid in future.

Macen · Post by **Macen** » March 6th, 2006, 2:17 pm

mitmaks wrote:Noise turned out to be brake line rubbing on inside of the wheel.

I did the same mistake.

I also had problems with air in the lines. It got much better after bleeding the system some more times.
My next step is to replace the master cylinder with one from a 929.

Cy · Post by Cy » April 2nd, 2006, 11:32 am

Ref: 95 RS 1.6L

hey hey.. so i rebuild my entire suspension from the wheels to the struts including redoing all the brakes and the flex lines and those 2 hardlines on the rear corssmember..

got it all back together and bled all the lines (albeit i don't think in the right order as was mentioned).. but i still used a whole large bottle (not the jug) of vavoline brake fluid...

My thing is that if i leave the car for an unknown length of time(i dunno how long it's taking) but the brakes go mushy... like on the first stroke it goes to the floor then it tightens up..

I'm going to bleed the brakes more as it could be air.. but i'm guessing it's the master cylinder (anyone else have this problem)

mitmaks · Post by **mitmaks** » April 2nd, 2006, 4:21 pm

I would suggest installing speed bleeders

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » April 3rd, 2006, 12:55 am

Check your fluid cap. The seal can rot out and then it will let moisture in. Once you press the brakes it will boil any water that has accumulated in the lines and the brakes will feel like crap.

Also, when you bleed a new brake line like that it is much easier to just open the valve and pump the brakes about 10 times to remove the initial air, then start closing and opening them in the usual manner to get any last bit of air out.

If you are looking for a Really good brake pad try the Hawks. They will eat rotors like no tomorrow, but will stop the car with less effort and NO brake fade better than any other pad out there. PS, the rotors need to be plain non-slotted, non-drilled. AutoZone cheapies work great.