Please Help

jrizzle · Post by **jrizzle** » March 1st, 2006, 6:31 pm

ok so i am new to this site so forgive me if im not doing this right but i have a 93 mx3 1.8 and i blew out my coil in my distributor so i did the hei mod and ever since then the stupid car hasnt run right if i try and take it past 5 grand it acts like its hitting a rev limiter the engine keeps running it just wont go any faster then that. i can bring it all the way to redline in neutral but if im driving and theres any load on the engine then it wont go past 5k. i thought it might be the timing so i adjusted the timing and its right at 10 degrees where it should be but my disty is all the way advanced and if i move it it kills my idle i have been workin on this for 2 weeks now i even bought a new computer thinking that that may have been the problem but it didnt fix anything i am just stumped i dont even know where to look to fix it so if someone could help me it would be greatly appriciated

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » March 1st, 2006, 6:47 pm

Did you have TEN & GND jumped on your diagnostic box when you set your initial timing?

Tunes67

jrizzle · Post by **jrizzle** » March 1st, 2006, 7:15 pm

yea i tried doing that and the second i took the jumper wire out it died

max kl · Post by **max kl** » March 1st, 2006, 7:32 pm

i would start by checking the crank pos sensor and cam pos sensor with an o scope but unless you are rich you dont have one but o local mechanic will

you can vissually check and see if there is debris in around the crank sensor and check the air gap of the sensor its behind the main crank pulley
also check the wire that comes up behind the belts and plugs in bt the fill neck
it is easly damaged and will cause car to cut out if it is messed up

also check all the connections you made during the conversion make shure the are tight

or borrow beg or steal another distributor and install it in the car temporarlly to see if prob goes away

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » March 1st, 2006, 10:35 pm

I'd put my money on a poor connection. If it is loose or not makinga good connection between the wires then a high load will not pass and thus the car will not accelerate.
Did you use silver soldier on all the connections? Should have if not. Also soldiering is an art. Play with some by soldiering two wires on your work bench. When you get a good smooth soldier then go and fix your problem.

jrizzle · Post by **jrizzle** » March 2nd, 2006, 6:20 pm

if it was a bad connection or if it was the crank or cam sensor then i wouldnt be able to take it to redline at all right? in neutral it will go to redline but if its in gear and im driving and theres a load on the engine then it wont let me

max kl · Post by **max kl** » March 4th, 2006, 2:47 pm

no still could be a bad connection because when you rev the engine in neutral the engine is not doing any work and the igniton system is also not doing much work
but in gear under acceration [half to full throttle] the engine is under load and the ign. sys. is working hard to keep up

the descrption you have given sounds like a secondary voltage leak like weak coil, arking dis cap & coil wire
it sounds like somthing that affects all 6 cylinders not just 1 plug or wire

all the work you did swaping the coil is on the primary side like the wirring the distrubtur pickup and modual

what kind of igniton modual are you useing?
what coil?
how did you install the coil wire to the dis. cap?

jrizzle · Post by **jrizzle** » March 4th, 2006, 6:07 pm

actually the arcing sounds like it might be right cause when i was adjusting the timing i kept getting shocked im using a 4 prong gm ignition module and a autozone coil

jrizzle · Post by **jrizzle** » March 4th, 2006, 6:10 pm

and if i do have a voltage leak how would i check and fix it

max kl · Post by **max kl** » March 4th, 2006, 6:29 pm

did you buy a 7 terminal dis. cap like one from probe talk or did you mod one?

a secondary voltage leak would be visable in the dark so u could rev the engine with the lights off at nite and look 4 the arking

or you can spray water on the dis cap and wires and look 4 arking
i dont mean use a water hose a fine mist is all it takes
also salt water or saline solution works beter than plain water

jrizzle · Post by **jrizzle** » March 10th, 2006, 8:02 pm

ok so i jumped ten and ground and put it in diagnostic mode and adjusted the timing to 10 degrees and left the jumper wire in and it ran great as soon as a took the jumper wire out it died and woudlnt start again so as of right now im driving it in diagnostic mode becuase i have to have my car for work but i would like to fix it the right way cuase the check engine light flashing all the time is getting a little annoying i have a code for a crank angle sensor but i think its an old code becuase i replaced the sensor and just never cleared it