ecu question

xerostatus · Post by **xerostatus** » February 13th, 2006, 8:29 pm

The klze i have is from a japanese millenia, with the curved neck intake mani... It is my understanding that currently it has a domestic KL ecu... Now i was wondering what the best ECU would be for this car, i made a few searches but im still sorta unsure, cause the previous owner of the car told me that kl31/36 ecu is not the right one for my car...

I was also considering that eprom thing, but again i think that isnt designed for this particular engine.. (?)

What is the best possible ECU to get for a jspec millenia engine? Any input will be appreciated, thanks.

vozaday2000 · Post by **vozaday2000** » February 13th, 2006, 9:29 pm

KL36/31 with JE50 MAF

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » February 13th, 2006, 9:43 pm

If you've already got a KLDE ECU with a KL02 VAF, I'd buy MSD Digital Window switches to set the VRIS points instead of buying a KL31/KL36 ECU. The KL31/KL36 ECU's are going for $250+, whereas you can get a set of brand new MSD Window Switches for $170 or so, and they've got better resale value.

jschrauwen · Post by **jschrauwen** » February 14th, 2006, 5:01 pm

Granted that the Window Switches will fix the VRIS control shortfall of the KL01 ECU, but isn't the A/F mappings still going to be a little richer with the KL01 ECU/KL02 VAF combo than the KL31 / KL36 ECU and JE50 VAF combo? Not that it's that much of a difference anyway I think.

Slammed6 · Post by **Slammed6** » February 14th, 2006, 9:43 pm

Actually the proper ECU for a Millenia is not the KL-31/36, I can't recall the exact #'s on the ECU but it uses a MAF and cannot be used with our wire harness.

But your best bet would be to use a stock KL ECU with the KL-VAF and that will get the VRIS close as possible...i believe they were off by 500 RPMS, and the fuel and timning will be fairly accurate.

hppwdn · Post by **hppwdn** » February 14th, 2006, 11:10 pm

The last Millenia ECU I had in my hand was marked KL62. I think it was from the engine importer so that's probably the japanese version. Not sure what the american one is.

Mnemonic · Post by **Mnemonic** » February 15th, 2006, 3:39 am

Slammed6 wrote:Actually the proper ECU for a Millenia is not the KL-31/36, I can't recall the exact #'s on the ECU but it uses a MAF and cannot be used with our wire harness.

But your best bet would be to use a stock KL ECU with the KL-VAF and that will get the VRIS close as possible...i believe they were off by 500 RPMS, and the fuel and timning will be fairly accurate.

That was only on certain motors Likewise the KFZE also used a similar setup but only on a few motors and if i recall correctly it was on newer motors OBDII.

I tend to think the best solution is to go with the ecu that was made for that motor, for instance i have a kl31 Klze i am going to use a kl31 ecu.

xerostatus · Post by **xerostatus** » February 15th, 2006, 4:50 am

Mnemonic wrote:
Slammed6 wrote:Actually the proper ECU for a Millenia is not the KL-31/36, I can't recall the exact #'s on the ECU but it uses a MAF and cannot be used with our wire harness.

But your best bet would be to use a stock KL ECU with the KL-VAF and that will get the VRIS close as possible...i believe they were off by 500 RPMS, and the fuel and timning will be fairly accurate.

That was only on certain motors Likewise the KFZE also used a similar setup but only on a few motors and if i recall correctly it was on newer motors OBDII.

I tend to think the best solution is to go with the ecu that was made for that motor, for instance i have a kl31 Klze i am going to use a kl31 ecu.

Yeah, thats what im wondering though.. what IS the proper ECU for this particular engine? The current ECU i have is i believe from a domest KL, if i understood the previous owner correctly... I saw the other thread on the board, the one about the KLK1 ecu, would this by any chance be something id be looking for?

lakersfan1 · Post by **lakersfan1** » February 15th, 2006, 8:00 am

The 'proper' ECU for a Millenia won't work. A) They're all automatic ECU's, and B) They're 95+ ECU's so the wiring's not compatible with the 92-94 MX3.

Get the window switches and be done. The fuel maps are not that different. Anyways, if I'm not mistaken, the highest dyno pulls with a KL on a stock MAzda ECU was with KLDE, not KLZE computer.

xerostatus · Post by **xerostatus** » February 15th, 2006, 4:03 pm

Ahh, ok i understand. thanks for the help, and excuse my ignorance

Mr.mx-3 · Post by **Mr.mx-3** » February 16th, 2006, 9:54 pm

I dunno bout the melennia ecu but I have a friend that has a friend that put a klze in his 93 mx-3 and he said it pulled like bloody hell all the way to redline with the standard reprogrammed k8 ecu he told me that it would roast the tires in first and second when it hit varial valve timing. He also told me that later he got the j-spec ecu and the motor lost quite a bit of power compaired to the K8. I also have a question I know the j-spec. klze ecu is limited to 117mph now what is the k8 limited to?? Also what the hell is a window switch???

Slammed6 · Post by **Slammed6** » February 16th, 2006, 10:04 pm

I dunno bout the melennia ecu but I have a friend that has a friend that put a klze in his 93 mx-3 and he said it pulled like bloody hell all the way to redline with the standard reprogrammed k8 ecu he told me that it would roast the tires in first and second when it hit varial valve timing. He also told me that later he got the j-spec ecu and the motor lost quite a bit of power compaired to the K8. I also have a question I know the j-spec. klze ecu is limited to 117mph now what is the k8 limited to?? Also what the hell is a window switch???

LOL, for one, our cars do not have variable valve timing. And 2, the car will defately pull alot harder with an actual 2.5 KLZE ECU, compared to a 1.8 K8 ECU.

Yes, the KLZE ECU will cut out at 115 MPH, but you clip 1 lil wire and it will no longer cut out. The original K8 does not have a speed limiter.

A window switch, is a lil box you hooked up to acitvate something at a desired RPM and then turn it off at another desired RPM. Hence a window, open and then close it.

Mr.mx-3 · Post by **Mr.mx-3** » February 16th, 2006, 10:17 pm

Slammed6 wrote:
I dunno bout the melennia ecu but I have a friend that has a friend that put a klze in his 93 mx-3 and he said it pulled like bloody hell all the way to redline with the standard reprogrammed k8 ecu he told me that it would roast the tires in first and second when it hit varial valve timing. He also told me that later he got the j-spec ecu and the motor lost quite a bit of power compaired to the K8. I also have a question I know the j-spec. klze ecu is limited to 117mph now what is the k8 limited to?? Also what the hell is a window switch???
LOL, for one, our cars do not have variable valve timing. And 2, the car will defately pull alot harder with an actual 2.5 KLZE ECU, compared to a 1.8 K8 ECU.

Yes, the KLZE ECU will cut out at 115 MPH, but you clip 1 lil wire and it will no longer cut out. The original K8 does not have a speed limiter.

A window switch, is a lil box you hooked up to acitvate something at a desired RPM and then turn it off at another desired RPM. Hence a window, open and then close it.

Thanks I have been wondering about that. Also what I guess what he was refering to is the sudden jump in power that happens after about 3,000 rpm's what causes that?? Excuse me if I seem a lil dumb about this I'm just starting out on all this and am tring to find the answers to what I need to do with my car as well. I also was reading a artical on the mx-6 web page and it discussed clipping the wire you spoke of and it said that clipping the wire worked pretty good but then you created the problem of over fueling on decelaration.

Mnemonic · Post by **Mnemonic** » February 17th, 2006, 2:23 am

Mr.mx-3 wrote:Thanks I have been wondering about that. Also what I guess what he was refering to is the sudden jump in power that happens after about 3,000 rpm's what causes that?? Excuse me if I seem a lil dumb about this I'm just starting out on all this and am tring to find the answers to what I need to do with my car as well. I also was reading a artical on the mx-6 web page and it discussed clipping the wire you spoke of and it said that clipping the wire worked pretty good but then you created the problem of over fueling on decelaration.

Yep that little jump in power is called VRIS (Variable Resonance Induction System) its used to vary the length of the intake tract in order to optimize power and torque, as well as provide better fuel efficiency. Its mazda's big FU to vtec

Slammed6 · Post by **Slammed6** » February 20th, 2006, 1:17 am

Thanks I have been wondering about that. Also what I guess what he was refering to is the sudden jump in power that happens after about 3,000 rpm's what causes that?? Excuse me if I seem a lil dumb about this I'm just starting out on all this and am tring to find the answers to what I need to do with my car as well. I also was reading a artical on the mx-6 web page and it discussed clipping the wire you spoke of and it said that clipping the wire worked pretty good but then you created the problem of over fueling on decelaration.

Well actually the reason y he feels such a jolt after 3,000 RPMS is that the VRIS points are not correct. If the VRIS points are correct, the power should be smooth and hard acceleration all the way through the RPM.

No, thats completely false. The wire i clipped is 1 lil wire that comes from the speedometer to the ECU "Strictly" for the MPH, just to cut it at a certain speed. There is no drawback thats i have seen from doing this.