Car stalls at stop light when in drive mode, not in N/P

95_mx-3 · Post by **95_mx-3** » November 22nd, 2005, 11:21 am

1995 MX-3 1.6L
Auto
135,000 miles

When I stop at a red light, sometimes the engine stalls out for a second. It used to happen a couple of times a day, but now it happens a couple of times at every stop light. If I switch to neutral, car idles just fine. It happens only in drive mode. A couple of weeks ago, car was stalling all the time for an hour, so I had to come back home. Next day, it wasn't that bad again. If i put it in neutral or park it won't do it at all. I searched the forum and found some threads with similar symptoms, but couldn't find the solid answer. Could this be a transmission problem since it happens only in 'D'? I have new wires, plugs and I don't think I have any vacuum leak. Any help would be appreciated. THANKS!!!

Post by **Custommx3** » November 22nd, 2005, 11:48 am

Happens under a load @ low RPMS....

Id check a few things

Codes...
Vaccume leaks
Coolant temp sensor

Does it "misfire" at all?
If so check your disty. Mine did this recently, it was the disty. But dont change it if you dont have too.

nos92mx3 · Post by **nos92mx3** » November 22nd, 2005, 6:51 pm

Does it stall like say if the car was a standard and you never pushed the clutch in when you come to a stop in first?

First things first do as Barry said, of all the times ive seen this happen (3 cavaliers a and neon) it has been the TCCS.

Torque converter clutch lock up solenoid.

Like I said its like if you were to come to a stop with a standard car still in gear and the clutch not engaged.

jsr914 · Post by **jsr914** » November 22nd, 2005, 8:47 pm

1993 MX-3 4 cyl
Auto
110,000 miles

My '93 MX-3 does the exact same thing. In fact, I was searching this site to see if anyone has the answer or at least some suggestions. Checked and no noticable vaccum issues. New distributer cap, new wires, new rotor, new plugs.

One of the responses mentions clutch issues. Both of the problem cars are Automatic trans., so that doesn't help.

Mine gets worse when either the lights or AC are on. Runs perfect until you come to a stop and then the idle drops so low it stalls. If I keep my right foot on the gas gently while stopping and keep the idle up around 800-1000 it is fine.

Any thoughts? Timing, voltage regulator motor mount issues all come to mind.... Thanks!

fir3 · Post by **fir3** » November 22nd, 2005, 8:56 pm

I got the exact same problem...
I will change my coolant sensor temp.

nos92mx3 · Post by **nos92mx3** » November 22nd, 2005, 10:21 pm

Even though you have an automatic transmission you still have clutch plates. The part i was explaining engages and disengages the clutch plates, and if it goes bad the car will stall as if it was left in gear comming to a stop.

jsr914 · Post by **jsr914** » November 23rd, 2005, 12:12 am

Shows you what I know. I see your point. I'll try both the sensor and look into the clutch plates. What is the TPS ? What is the IAC valve? Other formums seem to suggest this as the problem. Where do I start?

Thanks again!

PATDIESEL · Post by **PATDIESEL** » November 23rd, 2005, 1:59 am

I'd say the torque converter is the problem, but it could be internal trans clutch plates. We had a member on MOCA (AtlMX3) who had the same problem. I think that is what the trans shop said was wrong, but it was cheaper to do a manual swap then to get the auto trans rebuilt.
Good luck guys.

SpikeDerailed · Post by **SpikeDerailed** » November 27th, 2005, 5:58 pm

I have a 93 with 131,000miles that is a straight drive. Whenever im stopped(with my foot down on the clutch) the car will be fine, however if there is any kind of draw on the electrical system(seat belts moving, trying to put windows up while already up, ect.) it will drop my idle close to 200rpm and all the lights dim. I have already test my battery and alternator, even under full load and 600rpms it is putting out a solid 14volts.

I used something called SeaFoam(the stuff that cleans carbon), shot a whole cans worth into the throttle body while the car was off(suppose to do it while on but a obvious vacuum on the line prevents that from happening since it will stall out when the tb is exposed). After teh seafoam started to dry I got the car cranked and shot most of the carbon out of the system(it was A LOT), the car started running a bit better(not at optimal but much better).

JPEG · Post by **JPEG** » December 18th, 2005, 10:20 pm

Do you think a transmission tune-up would do the job? I have the exact same problem, and I'm due. The only thing different that I realized is that 'CHARGE' lights up when I touch the brake, barelly noticeable, just saw it because it was dark. (even parked)

Ninjah · Post by **Ninjah** » December 28th, 2005, 2:56 pm

I have a manual and it seems like when I have my foot on the clutch and start to release, the release point instead of being about halfway off like normal its right when I start releasing. My post got an answer that it might be my clutch fork. (either bent or twisted or something) I dont think its the coolant senser because when I replaced my thermostat my temp sensor borke and i havent found a new one thats the right kind. and I had had no problems with it, but now its doing that. So I know its not the sensor...like the other guys anymore insight other than the clutch fork to look at would help greatly.

1992 Mazda MX-3 1.4L

mycarhatesme · Post by **mycarhatesme** » December 29th, 2005, 2:12 pm

i think we've all had similar problems to this.

I would suggest checking your grounds if u havent yet. i found the ground coming out of my tranny was loose. i actually pulled it right out very easily. I have it pushed in as far as i could get it until i have a chance to fix it. but when it comes out, i get the idle bounce with any type of load.

check your grounds....its a cheap fix if thats all it is.

just my two cense

projectmx316 · Post by **projectmx316** » December 29th, 2005, 10:36 pm

i have a 94 with an auto and mine stalls evey once in a while but hasent done it to much lately but it idles fine when i hit the breaks untill i stop sometimes but my tranny shifts smooth in evey gear.

Tunes67 · Post by **Tunes67** » December 30th, 2005, 12:57 pm

What is the TPS ? What is the IAC valve? Other formums seem to suggest this as the problem.

The TPS is your Throttle Position Sensor. The IAC is your Idle Air Control Valve (Fancy term for a choke system). And yes these could contribute to your problem. However.. I agree with PATDIESEL and it sounds like the core of your problem is going to be tranny related.

The only thing different that I realized is that 'CHARGE' lights up when I touch the brake

This indicates to me that the core of your issue is likely to be your alternator. Either the belt is loose or the alternator is wearing out rapidly. However.. it is possible and considering the number of miles that are on your car.. That the IAC could be a bit gummed up as well. First thing I would do is replace the alternator and belt (or at least get it tested) Next I would clean up the throttle body & IAC system. Good idea to do this anyway since its likely no previous owner of your car ever did. I did a photo FAQ on how to clean your throttle body and how to adjust the TPS afterwards. Its in the 4 Cyl FAQ section. Hope this helps.

Tunes67

RTT · Post by **RTT** » December 30th, 2005, 2:30 pm

ok well like everyone i have the same stalling problems.....all im seeing on this post is possible answers with lots of suggestions...maybe a picture of an engine with pinpointed possible problems mite help out for people that dont kno all the technical s--- that goes with the engine....im totally useless when it comes to the engine so a diagram or picture would help a ton....