The "Superior" MX-3

[FEAR93GS]

Alright, I have a bone stock 1.8 GS. I see all this talk about BP's etc. etc. & I was under the impression the KL-ZE was the best engine. If you are going turbo would the KL-ZE still be the engine of choice? I will have the internals done on whatever engine I choose.

Thanks

[Franko]

Generally it depends on what car you have in the first place. In your case, since you have a v6 it would be easier to put a kl-ze in it then a bp. They are both very good engines and you can achieve 500 hp with either if you wanted. You just gotta spend the money.. its as simple as that.

[Vanished]

yup thats pretty much it. 1.8L mx-3 engines are alwasy v6, 1.6L are always I4.

BP
BPT (turbo BP)
are all for the RS (1.6 L)

KLZE
KFZE
KLDE are all for the GS (1.8L). These are the ones you want...

Now, to pick the right one. Basically, its alllll up to.
KLZE has 197 Hp and 160torque (correct me if i'm wrong) 2.5L
KFZE has 165 hp and ___torque (fill in the blanks peeps) 2.0L
KLDE has 160 or something hp if i'm right and ___torque. 2.5L?

Any one is turboable. Theres a kit comming out real soon for the 2.5l engines.

If you have anyother questions, do a search first...theres a billion posts about this stuff...good luck man.

[babyblueMX3]

keep in mind though that building a klze will cost you A LOT MORE than a bp or bpt or whateber 4 cyl engine, but still good power can be made on both engines.

[fi addict]

in stock form i think the kl-de is better for turbo and especially if you are new at this. lower compression and cheaper and more common to get a replacement. I have just heard too many "i got the wrong engine" stories. you couls buy one swap it in and buy another and build it on the side (port and....) for cheaper than one klze

[fi addict]

i also agree. if you have a v6, stay v6. add one motor mount and the engine is in (1.8 to 2.5liter swap)

[FEAR93GS]

Thank you,
I can see clearly now the rain is gone.

[bushidosword]

is the bpt better than the k8?

[fi addict]

i feel the BPT IS better than the k8, yes

more torque due to FI and more horses

[bushidosword]

How about longevity?

[fi addict]

this site might halp w/ more info on the BPT and other mazda I4's
http://www.solomiata.com

[Nd4SpdSe]

i also agree. if you have a v6, stay v6. add one motor mount and the engine is in (1.8 to 2.5liter swap)

LOL, add a motor mount, there's no need to add one unless one is missing, both 1.8 and 2.5l v6's mount in the same.

Stock for Stock, with no upgrading the internals
KLZE is best for N/A applications
BP is best for turbo applications

As for KLZE vs KLDE, the only benefit to the KLDE is that you can run more boost since it has a lower compression, but you get most HP/PSI on a KLZE than a KLDE, all that a KLDE does is give you more margin for error. Also a KLZE has better flowing a better flowing head, so it's a better engine to start from. Also, cause a KLDE is cheaper doesn't mean it's better, KLDE's will typically have higher millage, and high milleage engines don't like boost (but I don't have any exprience with it, so i don't know what is recommended and not)

But, ideally, if you have v6, stay with v6

[mx3chemist]

I'm new to this forum, but I'm NOT new to forced induction. Generally speaking, most factory forced induction engines have lower compression and a beefier bottom end, along with things like reinforced head gaskets and tougher compression rings. This is to accomodate the severe conditions that boost subjects the engine to. In the good set-ups, you will of course have inter-cooling and sometimes water-spray to help with the density and temperature of the overall fuel/air charge coming into the intake manifold. Cold air is much more dense, allowing you to run lower octane fuel without encountering detonation. Detonation will attack the surface of the pistons, causing pitting. This is all Boost 101, of course!

[deathman]

you would spend so much money to get to 500 hp 10k maybe more, whats the point the trany can't handle it anyway, plus the car wouldn't be very streetable. just my .02.

i know mine is not any fun unless it dry, (wheel spin at 40 mph is scary on dry pavement) i think i maybe at about 240-260, just a guess though. no dyno plots. the reason i think i am at this range is because my injector's are maxed evern with 65psi fuel pressure.

i know on probetalk most people say the trany can handle 350hp reliably stock rod's about the same.

there is a 6 speed trany but the price is about $18,000 or some crazy cost

[JWMotorsports]

as far as the transmissions go the Pro-LX tannies are good for around 300WHP and with a LSD are good for 400+. The weekest link in these gear boxes are the spider gears. The next problem is supposedly the case flexing. There are several different theories on this and we at Shady Motorworks are about to start investigating the problems first hand. So far we are thinking it is due to the lack of engine block mounting points which is transfering torsion stress to the tranny case allowing the shafts to seperate and then crash back together wiping out the gear box. Mitsu 4G63's are notorious for doing this and spitting out the freeze plugs due to the block itself twisting. Hopefully we'll have some solid answers by the end of this coming racing season. Corksport is working on a quote for my clutch setup to handle the massive HP and Torque my B6 powerplant will be laying down (500+WHP turbo only, then I'm gonna spray the piss out of it). We have my drag car almost ready to start up on the test engine. Money has been the issue on my project. For example...I've got over $1300 just in the fuel system NOT including the standalone. As stated above....any motor can make the HP if you've got the money to put into it. The advantage to a V6 is the extra displacement, the disadvantage is the weight. It really boils down to personal preferance and available cash in the end.